HI to everybody!
I vanna build a turbo onto my 1,8 NA DOHC motor(128 HP),And i've got
some questions about it:
-Are there oil squeezesrs too in the nonturbo BP engine like in the
GTX?If not,than should i place them in for the turbo modification?
-Can i use my current camshafts?If not,than should i change the
intake and the exshaust cams TOO?Or one of them is the same as in
the GTXturbo engine?
-Can i use my current pistons(compression rate/9:1),and piston rings?
-Can i use my current rods?Are they the same as the GTX turbo rods?
-And finally,can i use a GTX ECU with this modified engine,but with
the wiring harness of the original NA Engine?Are they the same?
Thanx for your help!
Please write!
P.S.:If anybody have parts for this mod than write me please!Write
prices too!I'm in EUROPE!So i'm mainly looking forvard Europeans,but
we can make deal from anywhere, via shipping or something else way!

 

Welcome!

1. Yes, the N/A BP DOHC engine has the same oil squirters.

2. Yes, you can use the N/A cams, i think they are near identical to the GTX cams.

3. Yes, you can use the same pistons

4. Yes, you can use the N/A rods. Although i'm not sure of the difference with the GTX rods.

5. Yes, you can use the GTX ECU, but will need to add the knock sensor and i beleive some of the wires need to swap pins in the connector. The harness is nearly the same. Also, the N/A intake VICS system will not work with the GTX ECU, so you may want to get the GTX intake manifold.

Here is some more info on istalling the parts from a fellow Escort GT owner (same BP engine)

-----Turbo'ing Your BP Engine----- by Jess Dillow

Turbo parts added to my 1995 Escort GT:
--VJ-20 Turbo from a GTX imported from Japan http://www.corksport.com/ = $300
--Exhaust Manifold -from a GTX = $176 from Cork Sport
--Jacobs "Boost Master" timing controller -from Jacobs Electronics. = $245
--Fuel Management Unit (FMU) -from Cartech. = $200 #20005 rising rate fuel pressure regulator
--Starion/Conquest TSI intercooler = $120
--Mandrel Bends -from JC Whitney. I used a 5 -90 degree bends and 2 -45 degree bends in my setup
YMMV
--Bosch BOV = $55
--Walbro 255 ltr./hr. fuel pump -from VE Petersen Company 1-800-537-6212 = $130
--Gauges: from Summit Racing. = about $300
Boost
Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT)
A/F ratio
Fuel Pressure
Oil Pressure
Water Temperature
--"Grainger" Valve to control boost. http://pages.cthome.net/gus/mike.html = $2
--Apexi S-AFC ($327) and GTX 330 cc injectors (about $150) can now safely run 10 psi
--4-wire TPS sensor to allow the S-AFC to work properly
Can also use: Pre 95 talon BOV (the all metal one) about 45.00 (used) 2" copper bends used for
water pipe with radiator hose in various bends to connect the piping.

The install was fairly easy after all the parts where gathered. I installed the intercooler,
FMU, gauges, and timing controller before the turbo arrived. The oil supply line was the hardest
part. I wanted to install the oil pressure gauge inline to make sure the turbo had oil pressure.
At the time I couldn't find adapters to fit the engine and turbo so I ordered M10 x 1.5 metric
fittings and AN6 fittings and had them welded. The fittings allowed me to use stainless steel
hose and an inline adapter for the oil pressure sending unit. Fittings can be bought from
Turbonetics. They are M10 x 1.5 to AN3 size for about $10-15 a piece.
Before installing the turbo, I figured out where I wanted to run the intake piping and mounted
the intercooler behind the bumper. I used two turbo "hump" hoses to allow flex in the piping.
Connecting the turbo to the intercooler was tricky because it required the pipe to be welded
to a 1 3/4" flange. I carefully mocked up the flange and pipe before marking it and having it
welded at an exhaust shop. My intake piping is very similar to the 1.8 GTX.
The BOV plumbs back into the intake just before the turbo using some copper plumbing fittings
and a PVC grommet glued into part of an OEM intake boot.
The coolant supply line was taken from the engine block after ordering an OEM fitting from a
1988-89 GTX at the Mazda dealer. The coolant return was plumbed back into the heater core return
hose using 1/2" copper water line repair pipe. I also used this copper pipe to install the water
temp sensor into the heater core inlet hose for ease of wiring and an accurate temperature
reading. This 1/2" copper pipe fits perfectly into the heater core line without restricting
water flow to/from the heater core. Originally, the pipe was designed to slip over a standard
1/2" water supply line to fix a burst. It can be located at most any home improvement store.
The turbo and manifold bolted to the engine without to much trouble. I had to unbolt the metal
water return pipe bracket where it bolts to the transmission to allow the manifold to slip onto
the studs. This all becomes clear when removing the OEM manifold. Plumbing the intake from the
VAF to the compressor inlet was most difficult due to lack of space. The top radiator bracket
holes were slotted to move the radiator 1/2" forward. Plan on keeping the OEM plastic fan shroud
and fan. Without it, the turbo bakes the passenger's side of the radiator and the engine runs
hot.
Without the S-AFC and larger injectors, boost was limited to 5-6 psi. I am currently running 9
psi. Plan on paying for a 2.5" exhaust, good tires, and a better clutch after the install.
The VJ-20 turbo spools very quickly. Bill Carothers ran the quarter mile in 14.9 seconds at 93
mph running 5 psi boost. He owns a 1994 EGT with over 100,000 miles on it. His 60 ft. times were
near 2.4 seconds due to traction problems on OEM tires. I am anxious to test mine running
9-10 psi. I am hoping for low 14's on street tires.

----Jess 1995 EGT turbo
MUCH THANKS!!!! to Jess Dillow for this great How To article. A great alternative to buying a
BPT engine!

 

Thanks for reply!

I've got an idea.Maybe i will use my current ECU and my current injectors, and i will use a 5th injektor.I think this could be cheaper then the GTX ecu with GTX injektors.Could 5th injector work fine for me?What do you think?
If i left all my NA engine internals, than what's the boost pressure that it can handle?
How many HP can produce the engine with this modification?
And what about the rev. limit?The NA engine's rev limit is 7200RPM.Is it safe the use the modified engine until this RPM?

Anyways:This forum is great!

 

i don't think you'll need the 5th injector. The NA injectors can handle a normal boost, but will need to be upgraded if you start going for big HP.

Jess, the guy who i posted his info above, has been boosting at 12psi w/ NA ECU and injectors and has about 225HP.

I am not completely sure of the rev limit, but i do beleive it's the same as the GTX anyway, so it should be fine.

You should contact Braden (Turboge) as he has alot more experience with the turbo engines and set-ups.

 

Where in Hungary are you? You know, not many people can type with a Hungarian and American Accent at the same time!!

 

VICS can be done with the GT-X ECU... its called an aftermarket rpm activated switch

 

I live in Budapest.

 

The stock injectors aren't big enough for serious HP...only about 245cc (I had mine rebuilt and flow-tested). RC Engineering says the injectors will flow enough fuel for 155hp.

IIRC, Jess was only running about 5-6psi with the stock injectors. He switched to the GTX 330cc injectors to run higher levels of boost.

 

The stock injectors will work fine for almost 10 to 12 psi. I have seen with my own eyes a Protege LX with TO3/TO4 smokin Trans Ams and Eclipses running on stock fuel injectors. As long as everything is fine tuned, correct timing, fuel pump, exhaust etcs. A five injector you will be consuming more fuel than a Dodge Durango V8.

 

Davard, what was the test pressure RC used for flowbenching your injectors? The cream coloured BP injectors are only 230cc, so maybe they tested them at a higher pressure than stock. Kulinpapa, get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator rather than another injector. The injectors can handle up to 110psi safely.