Has anyone used the GTR manifold from corksport?? Good? ...bad?? Also, would the camshaft set that they sell for the 91-96 escort GT fit our 1.8?? Thanks

 

i'm gonna get it when i turbo my car, i'll tell you how it is then

 

Yes.

 

quote:
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Originally posted by Protege91LX
Also, would the camshaft set that they sell for the 91-96 escort GT fit our 1.8??
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You can also use any Miata 1.8 Cams , specialy 99-up Miatas , they got more lift and duration. (need to swap the lifters too...)

 

what would be the best cam for a kinda modded, 1.8 BP, I have intake and exhaust

 

i plan on swapping the bpt engine in in late august. As for right now i just want a cam that will give me maybe 10-12 more hp, to smoke some weak *** vw's and hondas.

 

wow dont mind that last post that i made, i was pretty drunk. But, i was thinking of building my current BP up a little bit, maybe 160 whp or so. I was thinking full exhaust, cams, full intake, GTR intake manifold, bored TB, and rx7 vaf, and maybe some fuel system upgrades. Would that get me around the 160 hp point?




I dont want anything extreme until i get my bpt.
Are the heads from the miata better than the one off of pro's? Interchangeable??

Thanks

 

i dont believe so. if you wanna go n/a (which really does not suit the bp) your gonna need alot of $ and work to get 160whp. You will need headwork, agressive cams, headers, ported and polished intake mani etc. I would not use the GTR intake mani, i dont think it will do any better than a ported and polished stock mani and will probobly cost more There is a guy called rippinscort on ERDT running around 160whp, but he has tons and tons of work done, nothing you can just bolt on. Go turbo, you can get those numbers relatively cheaply and easily. If you are cheap and can do the work yourself you could hit the 160-185 hp mark going turbo for under a grand:

1. GTX exhaust manifold (or get a cheap one made) -$120-175
2. IHI VJ-20 turbo or anything you can get if your going custom - $200-400
3. Intercooler -(use one from another car like probe/mx-6)-$55
4. 2.5 inch exhaust and down-pipe-$300+/-
5. Gauges- $?
6. Intercooler piping-$120
7. BOV (blow off valve) (use a 1st gen mitsu eclipse)-$35
8. Oil lines and fittings-?
9. RX-7 or Walbro fuel pump-$90-130
10. . (optional) Upgraded clutch-$250+

 

yea, i think 160 was just a dream, i wanted to hit 14s n/a but i dont think thats gonna happen. I think i, just going to buy the GTX motor and drop it in. Or buy a 2nd gen rx7. I just want something turbo.

 

here read this .... I did
Bruce

http://members.aol.com/solomiata/CheapHP.html

 

It should be noted that the Miata loses more HP than the Protege to drivetrain loses. A stock 125 hp Protege is good for about 108-110whp, while a 140hp Miata is only good for about 114 whp.

Guy Ankeny estimated that he was somewhere between 160-170bhp on his CSP Miata back in '97. He just had a custom intake manifold (4 TBs), header, and most important, a stand-alone computer.

All those mods will do you no good with the stock computer. You need a TEC, Hal-tech, or similar computer to make hp.

 

To go above 140-150 at the wheel, you'll have to get a stand alone ECU and start tuning.

The cool thing is that not only the FWD has less drivetrain losses, but the BP Miatas don't have a flapper door VAF restricting airflow either. I just see more potential on the Protege BP than the Miata BP because of the details.

If the cars are already starting with about the same power to the wheels and you can improve the Protege intake with an RX7 VAF (or a standalone that removes the VAF, which will gain you about 10hp just because of that), the exhaust manifold design of the Protege has a lot more margin of improvement than the Miata one when going to a header, the camshafts have more margin of improvement over the ones in the Miata, etc. All of this tells me that it should be easy to match and gain more on mods for the Protege than the Miata.

My '96 BP Miata dynoed at 107 at the wheels stock. That car was rated at 133 according to Mazda (OBD2 ECU bumped power from 128 to 133 in '96).

With a K&N cone filter and a Borla exhaust with no cat and timing bumped to 14 degrees, I "only" got 7hp out of that Miata over stock on the same dyno (to 114). With a lighter flywheel the car transformed itself too. And that's without removing the valve cover. I know people with 1.6 Miatas that have a new STOCK engine and by matching parts to balance and building the motor to the good side of the factory tolerances, they are putting down 115 to the wheels (out of a 1.6!!). A 1.8 with some headwork,etc
should easily get to the 130 at the wheels mark, which I'm sure will have you running with a stock, heavier MSP.

The 200 pound difference vs the Miatais a killer, but that is another subject.

 

Yes, these are 1.6's used on Spec Miatas. The one in particular that I know that put 115rwhp (with intake and catless exhaust) was built from parts of a brand new crate motor and parts from a couple of older motors.

But I also know that stock 1.6 motors sold by pro engine builders for use in Spec Miata will put out 112rwhp. These are motors that have survived tech, teardowns and a lot of scrutiny.

I also know of other people that are more "adventurous" or perhaps have "extremely creative rules interpretations", or we can just call them "cheaters" that have 1.6s putting down 118+ to the rear wheels.

By the way, a 1.6 built to IT specs (blueprint, balance, gasket match port up to an inch inside the ports, alternate pulleys, headers, 40 mil overbore, half a comp. point raise, fresh head) should put down at least 125 rwhp. with the stock VAF. A 1.8, I'm guessing can easily put out 15 more than that.

(Oh, sorry for the thread hijack...)

 

Do you guys think GTR intake manifold for $185 is worth it in my situation? With the VJ-20 turbo.

 

definitely agree....and don't forget the pro BP has a VICS manifold!

my pro on a Mustang dyno put out 122 hp and 113 ftlbs with 200K on it - if you haven't seen them, click the link in my sig...

i assume Jesse posted a NA Miata 1.8 dyno - if so, that BP doesn't even have the benefit of VICS!!

i'm thinking a pro BP with all the bolt-on's, the *2nd gen* VICS manifold, 10:1 compression, an intake cam, and a standalone should easily be around the ~160whp mark

whatever the case, if you want na power(and for those racing, ....rules allow it), the 2nd gen VICS manifold is a must! my butt-dyno has registered the most gains (esp torque) with it of ANY mod i've done.... of course that may be because i have the other breathing mods in place.