k ive had this probem before, so i thought it was my ignition stuff, so i changed the plugs cap and coil and it was fine for maybe 3 months now,
but when i was coming back from wasage (really beat the car up), my car started up again and its really bad now

when the car warms up (its fine when cool), when starting from a red light or something, the car starts to studder and accelerates at its own little pace regardless of how much i step on it, then around 2500-3000rpm it stops studdering and its fine.
its really wierd im gonna try to change my spark plug wires today(thats the only thing i havent done yet with ignition) but i dont see how it can be the cause, its bean really warm no rain or anything so vapour lock/moisture+leak in the wires wouldn't do this, would it?

anyone else encounter this problem?

 

when i was at a redlight my idle used to drop down to like 500 rpms and the car would shake and the ECU would "click". The really fucked up part was if i put my headlights on the problem would stop. I took my amp out of the car, and put in a new MAF and now its fine. I dunno what i might have done to fix it but i did.

 

please check all intake hoses before you spend money on more ignition stuff. usually the two main hoses that would be causing that probelm would be the one that runs from the silencer to under the throttle body. the other one is one that youll have to get under the car to see and it connects under the intake manifold. you should be able to see it between your oil filter and starter.

 

Do our cars have a TPS or crank positions sensor?

I had simliar problems with a different car that I previously owned. I could floor it from idle, and it would shudder all the way up to like 3500RPM... From 1k to 3k too like 3 seconds. Turned out the TPS and crank sensors were bad.

 

thats farily werid that you were able to crack your tps lol. do i need to come to PA to show you how to drive, j/k! yah that could be a problem also, also a messed up tps would make your car run like total crap and sometimes rich.

 

Would it help if I said the car was an '89 Chevy Beretta GT? hahaha... I think it's self explanitory

 

well i got some NGK wires for only $42cdn but i doubt that thats the problem
havent put them on yet,
i checked for unpluged wires and stuff around the throttle body but couldn't find anything

crap!! this sucks

oh here are the possible symptoms according to Haynes mazda pro book

engine stumbles on acceleration
1.Spark plugs fouled
2.problem with fuel injection system
3.fuel filter clogged
4. fault in engine control system
5. intake manifold air leak
6.EGR system malfunction

there are a few more but gotta read over it first

 

timing belt? wrong firing order? get brake cleaner and spray around the engine place by place see if it idles higher then you gotta leak. fuel filters an easy change plus cheap but doubt thats it. try resetting the ecu as well.

 

dont think its my timing belt, although i did consider that cause i drove my car really hard for about 1.5 hours on monday (coming back from wasaga),dropping 3rd and redlining alot in 3rd and 4th 150km+ so i though it maybe skipped a tooth or something, but that would be a more obvious problem i guess,

fuel filter? maybe, i'll change that anyway
i also thought it was my gas cause i bought it up at wasaga and i was running on low for the past couple of days, but its not, filled up my car today

crap!

 

well the new wire are in and they look pretty sharp

and the studdering is gone for now, but i dont think that was the last of it

 

well yah your car spits in more gas when its cold to warm it up faster, and yours saying it runs fine when the car is cold, so maybe it is a fuel problem? i mean if its not cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, timing belt, clutch, timing itself, **** like that then i dunno man. i said earlier, try resetting your ecu, its worth a shot.

 

i have the exact same problem with my pro. i think it may be the coolant sensor, because if i unplug it, it will run fine, except that it obviously throws the check engine light. anyone think that may be it??? i have a 5spd so i can feather clutch a bit to keep it from getting really bad, just a little slower take off.

 

i was also thinking it might be a fuel thing, i was thinking injectors or gas filter (which will be changed soon)

but i had the car out the entire night and since i put the new wires on, its been fine.

 

good deal, did you have the wires that were first on there since the car was made?

 

no, my brother changed the cap, coin, wire, and plugs a few years ago, but my car kept getting vapor lock after it rained so i changed the things about 1-2months ago except for the wires, and now i changed the wires and the studder is gone

im gonna try to get a pic of my engine bay, its looks cool with the blue wires.