newbie BPT question
#1
newbie BPT question
okay, first off i know basics of an engine swap. well, the question is if i do the egt motor swap, i figured i needed the engine(of course) wiring harness(which one?), and maybe the trans. i have a 93 protege DX. will the tranny bolt up, and what harness's will i need for wiring? any answers will help, cause i don't want to get rid of my 1st gen after i saw what you guys have done to yours. thanks in advance!
#2
Well first off, Your asking if it will Bolt to the egt motor, Which is a bp and yes it will. The bpt is the gtx turbo motor, . Also,why would you use the dx tranny? It will blowup. Get the lx tranny and look for a crashed lx protege to carry parts over. Im not sure what ford stuck there hands in on the egt.
#3
the EGT came stock with the mazda G25MR tranny. And yes your DX ("F") tranny will bolt up to the EGT BP engine, witout any issues. The DX tranny has enought strength to hold the power output of the BPZE. but if you want to go turbo you will need to swap in the "G" tranny. .
BPT is the GTX engine that came out of the e-spec Mazda 323 GTX. i believe you are asking about a BPZE swap not the BP-ZET swap.
BPT is the GTX engine that came out of the e-spec Mazda 323 GTX. i believe you are asking about a BPZE swap not the BP-ZET swap.
#6
There are many people here using the F series box on a BPT....
we have found that using a stock organic clutch with a 1900lb presure plate the clutch slips enough not to blow the box on a regular basis and we found that it grips enough to launch well.....
im currently researching some new spider gears for the F and G series boxes to hopefully avoid the issue of blown boxes
another idea we have looked at is simlar to what is on zxtuner and that is a 4 spider gear diff..... the mazda tribute has a diff that will fit in these boxes and might be a good solution as well....
all the manual boxes have the same wiring, that is a neutral switch and a reverse swtich... it should be the same loom
good luck... and u wont be dissaponted....
btw... one good thing about the F series box is that it has lower ratios great for takig off
we have found that using a stock organic clutch with a 1900lb presure plate the clutch slips enough not to blow the box on a regular basis and we found that it grips enough to launch well.....
im currently researching some new spider gears for the F and G series boxes to hopefully avoid the issue of blown boxes
another idea we have looked at is simlar to what is on zxtuner and that is a 4 spider gear diff..... the mazda tribute has a diff that will fit in these boxes and might be a good solution as well....
all the manual boxes have the same wiring, that is a neutral switch and a reverse swtich... it should be the same loom
good luck... and u wont be dissaponted....
btw... one good thing about the F series box is that it has lower ratios great for takig off
#7
The tranny blows because its aluminum and it flexes enough to make the gears seperate and explode. A brace should be made and i know people have tryed many times. The gears in the G series as far as we know can handle more than enough power. An lsd is also a recomendation. Try not to use sticky slicks because you dont want it to grip you want them to spin. Goodluck on your adventure on this tranny please keep me updated on how it goes. But the tranny will hold 350 whp, Which is plenty in a fwd car imo
#8
mmmm.... weird.... thats a problem we have with the 4wd model not the fwd.....
btw the reason for the shafts seperating is cause the sleve bearings move sideways when u put torque into the box... this can be solved by changing the shaft length a little..... and replacing the bearings with newer items....
the other reason for the case flex is cause they overheat.... we have measured temps in these cases and the can reach 200 degrees celcius....
bracing will help, but its not fixing the problem itself.... its is a solution.... but by getting rid of the original problem there would be no need for it...
also internal bracing is a very bad idea as the new introduced metal will heat and flex at a different temp and will tear itself from its own welds/mounts.....
btw... just as a note.... stay away from ball bearings in the box....
btw the reason for the shafts seperating is cause the sleve bearings move sideways when u put torque into the box... this can be solved by changing the shaft length a little..... and replacing the bearings with newer items....
the other reason for the case flex is cause they overheat.... we have measured temps in these cases and the can reach 200 degrees celcius....
bracing will help, but its not fixing the problem itself.... its is a solution.... but by getting rid of the original problem there would be no need for it...
also internal bracing is a very bad idea as the new introduced metal will heat and flex at a different temp and will tear itself from its own welds/mounts.....
btw... just as a note.... stay away from ball bearings in the box....
#9
Originally posted by Oracle_SOD
mmmm.... weird.... thats a problem we have with the 4wd model not the fwd.....
btw the reason for the shafts seperating is cause the sleve bearings move sideways when u put torque into the box... this can be solved by changing the shaft length a little..... and replacing the bearings with newer items....
the other reason for the case flex is cause they overheat.... we have measured temps in these cases and the can reach 200 degrees celcius....
bracing will help, but its not fixing the problem itself.... its is a solution.... but by getting rid of the original problem there would be no need for it...
also internal bracing is a very bad idea as the new introduced metal will heat and flex at a different temp and will tear itself from its own welds/mounts.....
btw... just as a note.... stay away from ball bearings in the box....
mmmm.... weird.... thats a problem we have with the 4wd model not the fwd.....
btw the reason for the shafts seperating is cause the sleve bearings move sideways when u put torque into the box... this can be solved by changing the shaft length a little..... and replacing the bearings with newer items....
the other reason for the case flex is cause they overheat.... we have measured temps in these cases and the can reach 200 degrees celcius....
bracing will help, but its not fixing the problem itself.... its is a solution.... but by getting rid of the original problem there would be no need for it...
also internal bracing is a very bad idea as the new introduced metal will heat and flex at a different temp and will tear itself from its own welds/mounts.....
btw... just as a note.... stay away from ball bearings in the box....
#10
if u feel like having a read... theres tons of info on gearboxes on the fordlaser.com forum (our lasers use the F and G series boxes ur mazda's use)
and i also have quite a bit of detail on my site.... http://tx3.has.it
and i also have quite a bit of detail on my site.... http://tx3.has.it
#11
wow, i feel like a newb... thanks for all the info! i didn't mean to mix up the engines like that. might as well write a huge "search dammit!" anyways, if i could find an lx tranny, and engine, and the ecu, i know what to do. that swap sounds alot easier than the KL-ZE or KL-DE swap. i'd love to get a hold of a BPT, but i live in the midwest and i don't think getting my hands on one would be easy. thanks for all the help guys!
#15
a BPT engine package sells for AU$2200 here... includes engine/turbo/intake, loom, ecu, intercooler, cooler pipes, airbox....
there is a guy on fordlaser.com from maylasia (sp?) that can ship these to any country.... not too expencive for shipping either.....
there is a guy on fordlaser.com from maylasia (sp?) that can ship these to any country.... not too expencive for shipping either.....