1st gen/323/GLC Engine and Drivetrain Engine/Drivetrain Modification Discussions for 1990-1994 Models (BG chassis) and 1981-1989 GLC/323 Models (BD and BF chassis)

throttle response... (1st Gen)

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Old October-5th-2001 | 12:39 AM
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throttle response...

hey guys and gals...
this is basically my first post since i signed up... i know jesse and i've driven his car. and while i liked most things about it the one thing that i did think was lacking was throttle response. now i know that to get better response you can just bolt on a new flywheel and upgrade to lighter internal components... but i'd like to know if the bp motor has any quirks or anything? like does it respond better to anything or does it not respond well to something... thanks guys... lata...
Old October-5th-2001 | 01:21 AM
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Yes BP lacks some low end grunt and response, but it's compensated well at higher rpm range.
Header/exhaust and intake will boost low end torgue, but they don't give that much effect for top end.
Things to try-Apexi Super AFC to adjust fuel curve(I SAW it on BPT powered Escort GT-it actually made turbo-size injectors work with NA ECU ), fuel pressure regulator, stronger clutch, high flow cat.Gude should still have cams for it. That will not get you in 13 second 1/4 mile, but you' should be in low 15.
Things to watch for-early BP had hydraulic valve lifters, which may or may not need replacement-make noise when cold. Idle could be somewhat funny, throttle body needs cleaning more often than usual. Distributor O ring will leak, that's a very fast $3 fix. Timing belt needs to be replaced at 60K, could be expensive if you are not DIY type.
Things not to waste money for-ignition system except wires. Just keep plugs gapped properly.

Personally I would get pre-96 model with "old" style cam cover, they are as close to BPT as possible, even piston cooling oil squirters are still there and that engine is STRONG.
Alex
Old October-5th-2001 | 03:06 AM
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you know a lot about these cars. how did u learn so much about them?
Old October-5th-2001 | 02:10 PM
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Pseudo is right. I'm not sure where you heard that i/h/e increases low end but it is opposite. It MAY take alittle low end away but you will notice the increase from middle-high end.
Old October-5th-2001 | 03:22 PM
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It does depend on how the Intake/exhaust/header are designed/tuned as to where they produce power. However, almost all aftermarket I/E/H parts are designed to boost top end power because they get the largest numeric increase there. Thus better numbers for their advertising. Throttle response is relative, if you're used to driving a V8 or V6, most 4 cyl. engines are going to seem to lack throttle response.
Old October-5th-2001 | 11:34 PM
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yeah that car was pretty fast wasn't it? just had a problem with brakes tho... they were stock... ouch...
Old October-15th-2001 | 11:55 PM
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I don't know how mechanical you guys are.... Some of the hot N/A Miatas are runing IRTB (though very pricey you might just have enough room for the) and they give awesome throttle response.

If your doing a rebuilt the 01 Miata pistons (recentally were on sale at Mazda comp. for around 35 bucks a piece) are 10:1 compression
Old October-16th-2001 | 06:08 PM
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Originally posted by PseudoRealityX


Individual Throttle bodies will basically ruin any sense of streetability. They are also noisy as all hell. Would be a great track car though. Mazdaspeed does have a kit, but i havent heard of any Proteges using it. Toda's race BP engine uses them, but those arent sold in the US.
I have never heard of any streetablility problems with IRTB. Personally I don't see to much sound difference (though I enjoy the sound of well tuned setup)

For a fact, one of the concepts for the Miata MPS used IRTBs a 1.9L B family engine making 200hp.


I can't see any real street issues for a well tuned IRTB, but off course all Miatas that are using IRTBs have full aftermarket engine management.
Old October-17th-2001 | 04:23 AM
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you guys are forgetting the easiest way to make a torque-less car seem to have torque... you strip the bitch to bare metal and slowly add parts until you reach the desired weight. then throw all the other parts out the door, proclaiming, "that's useless...". you'd be suprised what 150 ft/lb of torque can do with a chassis that weighs a total of 1700 lbs with a driver... it's great...
but here's my opinion on the hp/torqe thing... you want lots... of both... but you don't want to sacrifice mid-range for a minimal peak gain.
anyways it's late and i need sleep... i hope all this makes sense in the morning... latas...
Old October-17th-2001 | 12:25 PM
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atleast someone understands what i'm talking about... don't forget the doors and hood... that's alot of weight there... peace..
Old October-19th-2001 | 02:20 PM
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I got LOTS of torque down low on my car and no up top horsepower or torque....... now in 3rd gear and 4th gear this is ok when I'm in the powerband......but once I get to the top end it sux...

1 thing that is useless........1st gear and 260lb ft of torque.....
Right when I launch into 1st gear and get on it those tires are spinnin like crazy and I know i'm losing time and power when I hit second and spin those tires again.....

Maybe slicks will help... but I don't want a broken tranny.....lol
Old October-20th-2001 | 12:07 AM
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hey with the haltec can't you program the ****** to run less boost in first gear than in second and above? i mean **** man do you really need all that power in first gear? hell just tone it down a bit and then unload the ****** in second through fifth... that's what i would do... but i guess i'll beable to test that when i get mine huh? damn i need money now...
Old October-20th-2001 | 01:46 PM
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I still haven't figured out gear limited boost control..... but the way the others work is through the speedometer gear readings... and ours are mechanical.....aside from some newer ones... Boost control with the haltech is RPM specific.....each 500 rpm.
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