1st gen/323/GLC Engine and Drivetrain Engine/Drivetrain Modification Discussions for 1990-1994 Models (BG chassis) and 1981-1989 GLC/323 Models (BD and BF chassis)

timing belt!!

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Old November-1st-2002 | 11:13 AM
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timing belt!!

hi,

i have a 94DX, and have about 66500 miles on it. was wondeing when to change the timing belt. i bought it at about 60800 miles and dont know if the previous guy had changed it. any help would be appreciated.
had another question, not related to timing belt though.
when i make turns, almost like a full turn. i get these squeaky noises. i think its the axle or need wheel balancing, cause when sometimes i am riving i hear these noises, like when u would be on a highway and u go off to the emergency stop lane. those lanes normally have perforations on the side and when the car goes over them they make this noise, i get the same exact noise. so was wondering what exactly it could be in normal driving.

thanks
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Old November-2nd-2002 | 12:26 AM
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Originally posted by cablemirc
when in doubt, get it changed.. if he did'nt do it, and it breaks, you could bend a valve and spend a lot more than you would have to get the 100 dollar timing belt service performed. and if you are engione saavy, you can get the belts for around $40
Actually, the B-series are non-interference engines. A broken belt will just leave you stranded.

The only hard thing about changing the belts is fitting your hands in there. At least, Mazda didn't put a motor mount in the middle of the timing belt, like my last car.

(Mazda did put a motor mount in the middle of the 2nd gen B-series, but in unbolts from the main mount, and the motor doesn't drop )
Old November-3rd-2002 | 02:32 PM
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sup,

thanks guys for ur replies, i think i will go ahead and change the timing belt. well one more question, i looked at the engine and i saw 2 belts runing, well do i have to change both the belts or how does it work........well again thanks

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Old November-4th-2002 | 10:29 PM
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the drive belts are pretty cheap, i'd change em at the same time, since you have to take them off anyway. (and it's much more fun to just cut the old ones off )

The V-Belt is for the alternator and the sepentine belt is for the power steering pump and A/C compressor (if equiped)
Old November-6th-2002 | 02:12 AM
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Originally posted by cablemirc
i can't get to the %^*#@^&# bolt under the alternator.. i can loosen the two on top, but it's not enough. and how do you get the other (outer) belt off? remove the water pump?
OK, the bottom alternator bolt (14mm, IIRC) is accessible from the bottom. BUT...if you are doing the timing belt, loosen the qater pump bolts before loosening the alternator. Otherwise you won't be able to loosen the bolts.

The easiest way to do the other belt is to first back the adjuster bolt (loosen the nut that keeps it from moving) off about 3/4". Then loosen the other bolts and push down on the PS pump (pushing the pump, not the hoses). When you put this belt back on, pull up on the PS pump and hand-tighten the adjuster nut, then tighten it with a wrench.

To get the water pump pulley back on, put one bolt through the pulley and then insert it into the hole on the water pump. Otherwise, you will struggle with it all day. And it works best using your left hand from the front of the car. Don't ask how I know.
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