1993 LX DOHC 97,000 miles

I set out on the journey of replacing the water pump, timing belt, ac, power steering and alternator belts.

First things first I removed both belts and then removed the pulleys. I removed the water pump pulleys and the covers for the timing belt. I followed the mazda dealer book step by step but not am confused on the reassembly of the timing belt.

The problem is that to remove the water pump I had to remove both CAM gears. I reinstalled them to where they came off and I am ready to install the new timing belt. Should the notches line up with the two notch marks shown on the seal plate (behind the timing belt)? or should they be where they were when I disassembled the assembly. As far as I know the timing belt has not yet been replaced.

Second question......My manual references turning the crankshaft 1 and 5/6 turns clockwise, and aligning the timing belt pulley mark with the tension set mark for proper timing belt tension adjustment. What mark exactly is this refering too and how critical is it?

Conclusion:
As of right now I have assembled the belt to the marks I made when I removed it, which do not line up with the factory alignment marks on the seal plate. Should I reposition both CAM gears to the factory reference marks and the crank to line up with its factory alignment mark also? or should I leave it where it is when I removed it and chance it from there?

any help is appreciated greatly
Thanks,
Will

 

Typically, when replacing a timing belt, before anything is taken apart the engine should be rotated so the the #1 piston is at BTDC (Before Top Dead Center), the point of travel just before the power stroke. But, I don't do that, being a "backyard mechanic" I don't follow manuals to good. I also renewed a water pump and when I realized the cam gear was in the way I made a mark on the top of the gear so I can remember the orientation when I put it back on. I don't know if you marked the cam gears or crankshaft pulley before you removed them but if you didn't you'll have to find TDC and ensure the distributor rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug lead. Your manual should have instructions on finding TDC. If not I can try to help you out from here.

 

I did mark the cam gears and I installed them back on the CAMs the same way they were when I removed them.
I also marked them before I removed the timing belt. I marked on the seal plate corresponding with the notches on the CAM gears. These marks do not line up with the factory alignment marks on the seal plate. If I have my crank in the proper position, should I line up the CAM gears notch marks with the factory marks on the seal plate or the marks that I made on the seal plate?

Thank you

 

If nothing moved (crankshaft, cams) during removal or installation the marks you made should be good. The factory marks are used assuming the engine is rotated to TDC PRIOR to any adjustments or replacement of anything having to do with engine timing (timing belts, cam gears, distributor, etc.) Setting the #1 cylinder to the TDC position is a reference point so that if anything shifted during your work you would be able to tell. When you have everything back together, before you start the engine rotate the Crankshaft pulley by hand with a breaker bar a couple turns to make sure the engine doesn't bind up. Remove the spark plugs before you do or you'll be fighting the engine compression. If you can turn the engine at least 2 turns with no binding , you're good to go. If the timing is not set there will be a definite stop. You may still feel resistance due to the valves opening and closing but you'll be able to tell the difference between the engine stopping due to physical contact btween the valves and pistons, and fighting a little compression. Let me know how you make out. If no good, you know where to find me.

 

So I finished the timing belt installation..and that pulley on the crankshaft was a bitch to get back on! the best tip that I can give is to take a c-clamp or visegrips to bend the metal edge of the wheel well. Everything went together smoothly and the car started fine but now there is a loud ticking. I lined up exactly to the factory alignment marks and I think this was different from when I took off the timing belt. so now I am going to take the belt off and realign it to the marks that I made upon belt removal. If this doesn't solve it I am going to be pissed. it is quite a bit of work to tear off all of those pulleys, the tensioner, and all of those covers...so I recommend if anyone else is doing this to take digital pictures before and during the disassembly...I was in a hurry to disassemble it after a long day of work and I neglected to take pictures during disassembly....these pictures would have made my life as easy as could be.... but no