This was cross-posted in the engine forum. Not sure which forum's more appropriate, so here it is.

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Hey guys,

While I drive the Check Engine light comes on periodically, then goes off. If I'm standing still the car sputters a bit and dies.

Usually I can start it up almost immediately.

Any insight into this?

Also, when the car is on, I can hear a steady, fast clicking emanating from the engine. Is that a problem with the timing belt?


Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

may vales ajustment???????o2 for engine light?????????

 

Best thing to do is read the code....

ground the TEN and GND on the diag. box and see what code it throws...The come back here and tell me what it is.

 

The magical black box, nothin similar to the one on airplanes, is located:

>On the engine bay
>Near the firewall
>Driver's side
>Exaclty behind the battery

In other words between the firewall and the battery on the driver's side.

It is a 1" x 1" plastic black box. It has a diagram of the switch. Just jump GROUND and TEN.

How do you jump it. Grab a 2 to 3 inch cable and plug it in the respective spaces. Do this with the vehicle off. Make sure this cable is not touching anything else.
Once it is connected hit the ignition switch up to the point the cluster lights up, but dont start the car. Watch the Check engine light and try to count the number of flashes.

If it flashes very quick then is a single digit code, from 1 to 9.

If it flashes slow, then pauses and flashes once again very quickly; it will reveal a two digit code, from 10 and above.

Example:

seven quick flashes will be a trouble code 7.

four slow flashes followed by two quick ones then is a trouble code 42.

02 Distributor problems
03 Distributor problems
08 Airflow sensor (open or short circuit)
09 Coolant temp sensor
10 Intake Air Temp sensor
12 TPS
14 Barometric pressure sensor
15 Oxygen sensor !!!!
17 Oxygen sensor has detected rich or lean mixture
25 Solenoid valve
34 IAC valve
41 VICS (DOHC only) This is the classic one for those of you who do the SOHC to DOHC swap.

Good luck

 

alright, I checked the code, and it came out 9 blips, so it's the Water Thermo Sensor that's the problem. But here's the catch -

I just had the sensor and cables replaced. Also recently replaced was the timing belt and the spark plugs.

Someone please tell me they have an idea of what I could do.

 

Ok, my bad, like I mentioned I got confused by trying to reply to different threads and posted a topic related to engine swap.

But it was not referred to the check engine light problem. I never meant to say you need to change the engine.

What I said is;

1. Did the mechanic installed all cables back again correctly?

2. Did HE/SHE clear the code from the ECM after repair was done?

3. Did HE/SHE really honestly performed the repair or maybe you got scammed?

If ALL are YES,

THEN the cable is loose because you mention it happens while driving. I cannot say for sure because I do not see your engine. But I would look into any shorted cable, maybe there is another cable making contact while driving. Mazdas are very very easy to work cars, specially the 1990-94 years.

Good luck

 

wait, so you're saying i need to replace the engine? great. ****.