Hey everyone...as it says in my sig, I have a 1991 DX w/auto. It has the 1.8 liter SOHC motor. (yea its lame oh well) About a year or 2 after my mom bought the car new, it developed a major vibration problem. She always just ignored it, but it seems to have gotten worse over the years. Now that it's mine, I can't stand it!

This vibration occurs while at a complete stop in either reverse or drive. I haven't tested for it in the lower gears. It is bad enough to make something light like my garage door opener actually move around a bit, say if I have it on the passenger seat. It causes all kinds of things from front to back (which would otherwise have no problem) to rattle loudly. Although it is nearly constant, I can feel a pronounced throbbing of the vibration. I have found myself constantly bumping it up to neutral during deceleration. It is always there whether the A/C compressor is on or not, however the compressor does make it noticably worse. (brand new compressor so it has nothing to do with it.)

I'm not sure if any stick owners have had this problem, but I do know someone else with a 94 DX auto that has the exact same problem. (I have been told many times just to deal with it, but I just can't anymore, it has become too much to bear.) HELP!

 

I have a 91 DX and I have the same problem, one thing I did notice is that when I'm at a stand still while in D or R and turn the wheel(making the power steering pump kick in) it seems to get worse. Its always seemed to me like it was an idle problem and the extra bit of draw from the accesories worsens the vibration. I hope this helps some of the more experienced members on the board help us draw a conclusion because I've wanted to fix this for a while and haven't gotten around to it.

P.S. mine is an auto also

 

Yep, when I turn the wheel at a stop it does give it an extra kick of vibration. Of course this is not what is causing the main problem, but certainly adds to it.

 

hmmmmm....i've been in other 4cyl autos and it just seems they have a tendency to 'vibrate' when you're at a stop AND 'in' gear - drive or reverse....
but you said it only started doing it after 1 or 2 years, so ???
could it be worn motor mounts? just throwing an idea out...

also, PlutoPeopz:
where did you get your AC compressor? how much was it? and how much to do the all the complete service? im asking because i need new AC as well

 

Same problem here, but I just thought the miles on the car were just getting kinda high and that is what happens.

 

As I told u that one night like a month ago, Wil, I already messed around with that. No changes.

 

my engine was doing the same too...but i found out what it was,the motor mounts.I only had enuff money to change one of them and when i did change it i noticed a big differnce in the stopping of the vibration...although my car is vibrating still..its because of the other motor mounts (completely shreded out).

look into that and see if yurs are fine.

 

Yep....It's the motor mounts. Could also be partly due to a low idle. A tune-up at the same time may also help. I have a 94 DX auto and had the exact same problem. I have gone through 2 sets of mounts, mainly cause I race. There are four mounts on the auto DX's. 2 mounts reside on the undercarriage brace, one under the battery (trans mount), and the most obvious one is on the passenger side above the belts. The main mount seems to be a bit more dependable than the other 3.

These three mounts are relatively easy to change. I would suggest that you start with the tranny mount first. Then work on the 2 mounts that attach to the undercarriage brace. It is very important that when you change these two mounts that you support the engine/trans with another jack or a hoist. It should take a couple hours to do. The mounts should run around 150-175. Good Luck.

 

So one of them is a tranny mount? I have had all my tranny mounts replaced twice at this ripoff place...first cuz they said it needed it. Then cause they said leaking tranny fluid had ruined the new ones, so I got new ones again. Then, I went and got some common sense, kicked myself in the head for wasting money, and..yea...i dont think i'll attempt it myself, because I'm scared lol

 

I got it from a place called Russell Automotive, here in Orlando, and they are a complete and total ripoff...and I'm never going there again...but anyways, they charged $355 for the (i'm assuming) rebuilt compressor (someone told me brand new ones were like a grand). and $52 for the Dryer unit, $84 for new Freon...(old system) and they replaced the A/C-powersteering belt...and the alternator belt...wtf..i'm thinking aloud as I read this invoice...why the hell did I get the new belts i wonder if I needed both...prolly, oh wel...and they charged $88 to replace the compressor assembly, $64 to replace the dryer assembly, and $56 to drain, flush, evacuate, and recharge the a/c system. WTFH im never going to that retarded place again!!!! stay away from them!!!!

 

btw, thanks for your info MikeD....i'll probably get the new motor mounts soon because its bugging the shiznit out of me!!! who sells em....autozone? and are there universal standards or would these be mazda-specific mounts? i'll prolly end up having a family friend do it at his shop, but just in case me and a friend try to go at it ourselves......(engine might fall on my face)

 

you might try www.mazdamotorsports.com - they have 40% stiffer motor mounts - i honestly don't know though which ones work for autos....

and i'll stay away from Russel Automotive

 

its funny - i recently test drove 2 5spd Proteges. Both had a different trans 'problem'; one of them had worn shifter bushings; the other one had worn motor mounts....whenever you gave it gas, the shifter would 'jump' back; let off the gas and it would return to its normal position.

 

Ah Ha! so manual tranny's aren't all that!

 

Not that i know of.... at least mine hasn't needed new mounts....