help! fluctuating idle (electrical problem?)
#1
help! fluctuating idle (electrical problem?)
I will do my best to describe the problem I'm having...
Whenever I pop my car (91 Pro DX) into neutral, sometimes my car will idle roughly. According to my tach (aftermarket, I have a manual trans), the car goes down to about 500 RPM, then back up to 750. Sometimes it stablizes there, and others it'll do it again. Back down to 500, then back up to 750.
Accompanied by these fluctuations is the sound of a relay. THe sound seems to be coming from the left side of the cavity for the passenger's feet. Behind the little coin tray that sits in front of the shifter. (Perhaps around where the ECU is?).
I hear a click of the relay, THEN the car dips down to 500, then the relay clicks again and it springs back up to 750.
I hope this is enough for someone to shed some light on this problem. Thanks.
Whenever I pop my car (91 Pro DX) into neutral, sometimes my car will idle roughly. According to my tach (aftermarket, I have a manual trans), the car goes down to about 500 RPM, then back up to 750. Sometimes it stablizes there, and others it'll do it again. Back down to 500, then back up to 750.
Accompanied by these fluctuations is the sound of a relay. THe sound seems to be coming from the left side of the cavity for the passenger's feet. Behind the little coin tray that sits in front of the shifter. (Perhaps around where the ECU is?).
I hear a click of the relay, THEN the car dips down to 500, then the relay clicks again and it springs back up to 750.
I hope this is enough for someone to shed some light on this problem. Thanks.
#3
My car does the same thing. Today it was idling around 250RPM for a minute and wouldn't idle any higher, then the idle raised and it was fine. Other times my car idles at 2000RPM and won't drop forever until it's been idling for like 5 mins. As soon as I can, I'm going to run a check for vaacum leaks. I suggest you do the same.
If you dpn't know how to do that, here's how. Get a can of starting fluid. Starting at where the intake runners meet the head (the seal), spray a small spot at a time but go all the way around everyplace there could be a leak on the intake. If the engine revs when you spray, you've found your leak.
If you dpn't know how to do that, here's how. Get a can of starting fluid. Starting at where the intake runners meet the head (the seal), spray a small spot at a time but go all the way around everyplace there could be a leak on the intake. If the engine revs when you spray, you've found your leak.
#4
Thanks for the pointers. You don't think the relay has anything to do with it, eh? Since it trips BEFORE the car drops revs. Kinda strange. Anyway, my car idles around 1500 as well when I first start it up intil is gets some warm coolant in its veins. Then it's fine (until it starts this crap I'm posting about =) )
#6
I have A/C, as far as the ability to use it if I'd get it recharged, but since it's below freezing this time of year, there's no reason for me to use it (plus the fact that it needs recharged). But the belt is still going around the pulley for the A/C conpressor.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
pilsner525
1st gen/323/GLC Engine and Drivetrain
1
June-13th-2003 02:36 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)