well since it started getting cold out.. i fiurged i would use my heat when it decided it wasent going to work.

after a few days i decided to check it, the inlet hose is hot, the blower works fine, and the outlet hose is cold.

i took off the hoses, thinking there would be somthing stuck in there blocking my heat i put some water pressure through it when to my suprise the water came right out the other side meaning there was nothing blocking the path!

im thinking that there is something wrong with my heater core but i have no idea what, what can go wrong with a heater core and how do i fix it? any advice is helpful considering im freezing my *** off

 

I had the same problem last year. Turned out my thermostat was stuck. It is about a 15 minute fix and will only cost 10-15 dollars for the thermostat and the thermostat housing gasket at Pep Boys. Give that a shot first.

 

Mike D,

How does one go about getting to this thermostat? What does it take to change it? I'm freezing in Indiana as well...

 

If you look under your hood, you will see a black hose on the right coming out of the radiator. This is your upper radiator hose. One end will be connected to the radiator (just covering bases here) and if you follow the hose down to the opposite end it will be attached to the thermostat housing. You will need to disconnect the radiator hose from the thermostat housing. Then disconnect the wire connector from the coolant temperature sensor probe that screws into the housing. You will need a 12-14mm (forgive me for not remembering the size, but it's easy enough to figure out) deep socket that you will use to remove the coolant temperature sensor. Once that is done, all you need to do is remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the housing on. Once you pull the housing off, the thermostat should be clearly visible. You should be able to pry it out with you finger or with a little pry of a screwdriver. Just make sure your car is cooled down otherwise you will burn the hell outta your hands.

Scrape the left over gasket material from the thermostat housing and the block using a blade. Try not to score the surfaces. A copper brush can be used to make sure the gasket contact areas are cleaned well so that you can ensure a good seal.

Make sure you get the correct replacement thermostat and gasket at the local parts store (approx 15 bucks total). A good gasket sealer like permatex should also be used to help seal the new gasket to the thermostat housing. Install is the opposite of removal. Just be sure to coat both sides of the gasket in a thin even layer. When installing, make sure the gasket is seated correctly and conforms to the contour of the housing. Installation is the opposite of removal.

I know it looks like alot of work, but it is actually a pretty simple fix provide you have the tools. If you have any reservations about doin it yourself, pay someone to do it. I do all the work on my own car within my ability cause it pisses me off how much shops rip you off. Good luck with the repair fellas. Wishing you a warm commute!

 

Thanks for the mini how-to Mike! Let's hope it works! These Indiana winter mornings are starting to get pretty cold!

 

I was told by a couple mechanics at my Dad's Mazda dealership to stick with OEM thermostats. Aftermarket ones, for Mazda specifically, are religiously bad. Yes, they cost $15 compared to the OEM $30-$40, but that won't matter when you have to buy another $15 one in a year or 2.

 

STEVE IS DUMB

 

wtf justin?