Working on my daughters 1990 Protege. Will start cold and run (and move) for about 10 minutes, then abruptly stalls. Will not restart until cold. Had low coolant and possible overheat about a week previously do to heater hose leak (repaired). I suspect coolant temperature sensor or coolant vacuum switch. Any suggestions (before I start buying parts)?

 

ground mayby.....I have ...check the fuses pull them and install them back just so they clean their contacts...
Does it still turn over after it dies?
Fuel pressure after?
spark?

Give us more to work with
Jon

God bless.

 

Long shot, but cheap and easy -- check the intake air hose to be sure it has no cracks that allow air to leak in.

Otherwise, see if any codes are set in the Engine Control Unit (ECU).

On my '92 LX, the coolant sensor failed and caused intermittent rough running and stalling. It only set the check engine light one time, which gave me the info needed to fix it.

Also check that the airflow sensor connection is sound.

jq

 

Update on '90 Protege stalling - no spark at coil despite switching with good coil- problem still intermittent but mechanic diagnoses igniter(wouldn't start for me but wouldn't stall once it was in shop - go figure)I've installed new igniter(ignition module) and am currently replacing timing belt-apparently it has never been done @ 230,000K. Hopefully this is it!

 

While searching for a repair to my '90 Protege stalling problem, I found yours.

It all started Christmas eve. I degreased the 1.8l sohc engine (132K) cleaned it
really good. Of course it would not start. After sitting for hours, had it towed home.
Next day, it ran for 15 seconds at idle and died. Started it again, coughed and chugged
lot of smoke out tail pipe, dead again. Started it a few seconds and died again.
Had to charge batt. Tried to start, turned over but nothing. Dried out the distributor
best i could, it had water in it. Took it apart as far as practical. Dried it out several
times. Replaced cap and rotor. Turned over, no start. Sprayed plug wires with WD-40
to displace the water. No Start. Realized during troubleshooting I had bent connector
pin on voltage coil primary connection point. Corrected it. Seemed like it wanted to
start but, still nothing. I realized no consistant spark at secondary of coil. Replaced wire
from center of distributor to coil even thought it measured in good resistance range.
Used junkyard voltage coil. It ran for 1 min this time. Stalled again, died.
Replaced with used Igniter. no help. Still spark at secondary of coil inconsistant.
Seeing one initial spark to ground at beginning of crank, then another at the
end of the crank cycle.
Retreated to enjoy several nice days of 60f weather here in Virgina.
Next without trying to start it again I simply took the battery out and started
opening connectors looking for water. When i Found some dampness, I dried it.
Not to much found. Cleaned all the Ground connection I could get a wrench on,
at firewall below battery, below the igniter bracket, two white conn. multi-grounds,
even cleaned the bracket the coil and igniter are mounted to insure a good ground.
Then I replaced the condenser cap above the igniter. Going for broke here. Cleaned
the gound point at the distributor and engine block. This time after nothing for
many days it started and ran for 10 minutes and then stalled out. After a few minutes
it started and I let it run for 30 minutes at idle until the Fan kicked on. Drove it to
the end of the block and it stalled Again. Started it and got it Home. Let it sit
for several hours. Then was able to drive it about two miles. It stalled near home.
This time it would not start. Had to leave it for an hour. Returned and it drove
home great.
Making slow progress, however anticipating it will again stall after a few miles.
WHAT NEXT?
What action fixed yours?
Any help out there?

 

That belt was still in one piece after 230k??!! holy crap...im suprised the car will even move i kno these cars can tolerate high mileage but 230? my friends CRX (which most of you have heard of has 180 and im suprised at it also)(just telling you that to let you kno im not ******* the pro)

 

"To topfile "
Did you check to see if you have a leak in the intake tube?
I noticed that these cars have to have a precisie amont of air going through the Mass air flow sensor and the presure must be relative at the throttle body so the TPI can mesure and do what i has to do.. I had a leak in my intake tube and it was doing all sorts of funny stuff.
check that or replace the TPS...

.another things is the collant temp sensor . seems to send more info to the PC that you think...did you try disconecting it? It should automatically turn on the fans but at least the PC knows that it is trying to cool its self.
I have 212K miles on my 93dx but 35k on the DOHC BP conversion.
I want to reach at least 300k with it.


Regards
Jonathan

 

I feel your pain! New iginiter did not do trickfor me. I replaced timing belt (looked in great shape-was at least 6 years without replacement) & water pump while I was there. Car fired up right away but only ran for about 10 seconds then stalled. Will take qjohn's & goopy's advice and check intakes etc for leaks, and coolant sensor. Better news next post!
Dmakow

 

I resolved my starting and stalling problem earlier.
Thanks Goopy for the info regarding the air intake hose.
Please read my thread "No Start/ Stalling Resolved".
I added the tightnening the air intake hose to the steps
to resolve, as I had done this but did not think it was important
until I read Goopys reply.

DMAKOW... did you have any moisture in the engine compartment
as I did? Maybe from a coolant leak? If so read over my thread
and see if any of it helps.

Did you replace the condensor? I think I may have damaged it during
troubleshooting. I found that sometimes there may be multiple problems
a work. Fixing just one does not resolve the problem.

Some good advice I received was "go back to basics" review
the simple things.

 

cool glad i can help..

Goopy

 

Very interesting, I'm having alot of the same problem(s).
You guys seem to have alot of good advice.

 

Finally have resolution. Problem was distributor. Local Mazda dealershiip diagnosed and replaced with a used part- 2 hrs. Interestingly I had learned how to access the stored trouble codes just before I sent the car to the dealership. Kept coming up 02...02...02...02... - (Distributor) Lesson here? Maybe access trouble codes FIRST Thanks for all the help. Your time and effort has been appreciated!

 

Glad it's running again. I was wondering what happened
with your car. Thanks for letting us know.

 

192,545mi. on my b6 and still runs like new.