I got a noticeable increase in engine noise awhile back. I figured I had a simple exhaust leak at a seam someplace. Then the CEL light pops on and the noise gets worse over a couple days. I've found that my local dealership is pretty useless for this...those greedy a$$ pirates want a minimum of $100 for any type of simple diagnostic work. And then really bend over if they actually find the problem.
So I plugged it in to a OBD2 scanner myself and it read back that the EGR was out of whack.

So I jack the car up to check out the exhaust. After plenty of looking, I found the exhaust manifold WAS CRACKED. And we're not talking at a weld/seam/joint. It was the Grand Canyon smack dab in the middle of one of the runners. Cracked completely in two. POS @#%! OEM cast iron crap.

And of course, no one makes a header for this little 1.5...or if they did, I couldn't find it (and didn't have a lot ot time to look). So I picked one up in a junkyard. They were nice enough to bead blast it for me. And even if someone did(or does) make a header, I'm not going thru this fiasco again.

Now let me tell you...getting that manifold out was NOT easy. Maybe there's a trick but the factory service manual was borderline useless.
1.) You gotta get the heat shield out.
Sound easy? Sure...unbolting it is but finding the space to get it out isn't. I ended up removing the top radiator coolant hose (and subsequently draining coolant everywhere BUT the drain pan I laid out). I also took out the complete airbox and distributor cap before I found enough room to wiggle it out the top.
2.) Now unbolt the header from the block and the rest of the exhaust. All that heat expansion/contraction tends to freeze those bolts pretty good. Judicious amounts of a WD-40 type lube and lots of swearing was involved. It also helps not discriminate beween nuts and studs...either one is progress.
3.) I had to loosen the rest of the downpipe from underneath to give enough clearance. It went out the same path the heat shield took.

Installation was the same nightmare, in reverse.
But the problem is solved.
Now, I've got a few choice words for the next Mazda engineer I run across. Sadistic bastards.

And if anyone pays attention to nat'l weather...it's rained for the better part of week with no signs of stopping here in central Texas(thanks Kenna). So I was either getting wet, completely wet or in some stage of damp through this five hour affair. I miss my garage. Ever try lying on your back, under your car, in the rain? I don't recommend it.

If anything, this has helped solidify my decision to sell this car to the first person who waves money in my face and pony up for a WRX. Or a Mazdaspeed Protege if I'm lucky enough to come across one.

 

I totally feel the pain you are going through. I myself is in school right now trying to become one, but I am not going to be one of them. I want to smack around Ford engineers with a large trout. I work in car shop once a week chaingin oil on cars to make some cash. I have seen all types of cars and some are really worse then the others. Ford cars, and some Toyotas are frigging notorious for placing oil filters right next to a blazing exhaust manifold. Some Mitsubushi's are designed half-*** backwards as well. It is so sad, but engineers only care if the product works, and give absolutely no damn on how to fix it, if needed. There are only few cars out there that easy to service, and not just for oil changes, but brakes, exhaust, trannys, and so on. Though most of the cars are Japanese, besides my Protege, I have only changed oil on a first gen, and just like mine it is only a little painful. I hate leaving work, having burn spots all over my hands. But there is nothing we can do about engineers being who they are. I know I will try something, but it will be a while.

 

yeah ive had to change starters 3 times on my mustangs i used to have...ford put em right next to the oil pan and exhaust...so it was always hot as hell...and the bolts were a ***** to take out too...the only thing i see a lot of probs with will be the alternator i somehow have to replace soon...i already have to jump start my car every morning...damn sideways engines lol

 

not so. there are bean counters at every single auto manufacturer who look at the bottom line and say what and how something goes into the car. engineers design but bean counters make the decision and tell engineers what to do. selling parts to customers down the line is a big profit maker for auto manufacturers. i would not be surprised if over the life of a car, you pay more in parts and service than the profit that the manufacturer makes when they sell a new car.
so its probably the bean counters that say "make it work but make it hard to fix because we need to sell the parts to make money." well, you get it, its something along those lines.

 

I hear you. But I don't mind an engine that's hard to work on if it makes up for it behind the wheel...and uh, personally, the G2 Protege doesn't do a whole lot for me. I just use my Protege as a work horse/ A to B type vehicle. I've got a motor swapped CRX that's my baby.

Maybe it's a little unfair, but if I have to do anything more than regular maintenance on this thing, I get a little fed up with it.

 

Damn! My sis has a crack exhaust manifold too! BTW, I was told that it should be covered under the emission law (7yr 70,000 miles). I am going to check on that.

I just did a 60k on a 98 Protege ES including replacement of rotors and pads. I have a EJ25 (not that much different from (EJ20-T). I have to say, everything is about the same except for the oil filter, fuel filter, drive belt, and timing belts are harder to deal with on a Protege. Especially that damn fuel filter. But that could be just me.