2nd Gen Protege General/Maintenance Discussion for 1995-1998 Models Only (BH Chassis)

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Old October-27th-2002 | 07:41 PM
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oil

i just changed my oil for the first time on the Pro. Now the ride is alot smoother that before cause i put in 10W-40 instead of 10W-30. the only problem is that there is now a little whitish clearish smoke and a slight burning smell coming from the engine. i also checked for leaks and there are none. does anyone know what this is? i did spill a very little amount of oil while pouring it but it was probably no more than a teaspoon. thanks.
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Old October-27th-2002 | 08:27 PM
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how long was it smoking for???
Old October-27th-2002 | 08:40 PM
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I have 10W-40 in my ES and it does the same. I dunno why.
Old October-27th-2002 | 09:12 PM
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it just smoked right when i first started the car after the oil change. there is also a new clicking sound in the engine also.
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Old October-27th-2002 | 09:31 PM
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I would say that the clicking sound is not good, it could be the valve-train screwed up, and I think 10w40 could have done it. There has to be a leak, and it is internal - into the combustion bay. Take your sparkplugs out, and see if they are extra dirty, like really black, or smell like bured oil.
Old October-27th-2002 | 09:46 PM
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Clicking when turned on is a loose valve/valve spring and it sound only when turned on is becaus there isn't any oil in the valve area. As soon as the oil comes up it stops. I think the only thing the oil could've done is amplify the sound.
Old October-28th-2002 | 01:19 PM
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why would 10w-40 cause the valvetrain to screw up?
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Old October-28th-2002 | 04:58 PM
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I am not exactly 100% sure on this one, but you have piston rings that protect oil from getting into the combustion area. There is the same kind of system on the valves, that every time the valve opens or closes, there are seals on them that prevent oil getting into the combustion area. Now, I only said that 10w40 might have done that, that is leak through the seals. Because 10W40 is thicker then 10w30, it could have prevented for the valves to move freely. Once again, this is my theory on how to engines work, and if some one can correct me, please do so. Thanks.


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Old November-2nd-2002 | 07:19 AM
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Use the 10-30 that Mazda recommends. 10W-40 has more additives and can leave deposits inside the engine, clog the oil control rings on the pistons, etc. There is no advantage to using 10W-40 over the recommended 10W-30, since both oils use the same "base" weight of 10W oil, the additives make a 10W oil act like it's a 30 or 40, kind of makes it stickier. Actually, gas milage will be less, but I doubt enough for anyone to notice. The old days of using a thicker oil for any "advantage" are gone. Mazda 4 cylinder engines are noisy at cold start-up, they always have piston slap until they get a little temperature in them, although it doesn't really do anything that bad for a few seconds. Actually, I think I saw something in the forum about the noise at startup in the past.
Old November-15th-2002 | 11:35 AM
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It's just the hydraulic lifters that auto-adjust to the oil you put in.
If you put thickier oil it will be longer to warm up and it will be harder for the oil to pass in the lifters port.
I tried 15w50 this summer and it was good for high rev driving but longer to warm up. As long as your willing to wait in your car before going it's ok. 10w30 is good for daily turn on and go...Now I'm back with 10w30 for colder use.

The oil smell might just be the one you spill around the hot region of the engine. Unless it's coming out the exhaust tip, then you're burning oil, not good.

Mine doesn't burn oil but I need to add 0.1 to 0.2l each week but I always reach 4000-5000rpm when I drive.
Old November-16th-2002 | 12:35 PM
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i check my oil all the time. since i last changed the oil, it has been driven less than a thousand miles, but the oil has already changed to like an auburn, light brownish color. is that supposed to happen so soon, or is this normal. i do alot of highway, high rev driving so maybe that is the culprit. but the last time, before this time, that i changed my oil, i changed it with about 2000 miles on that oil change. it seems to me that i have to change the oil a little more frequently than normal.
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Old November-16th-2002 | 10:03 PM
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most time when filling up the engine with oil , I tend to spill a little , and it drips on the manifold , no bigge ... well also sometimes from taking off the oil filter, some oil would drip onto the cat ,, and when starting the car it would burn off from these 2 places .... that is what u smell ... as for the white smoke , well that has other factors ,, such as wheather , time of day , if it was 1st time starting the car or not ... and so forth
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Old November-27th-2002 | 05:19 PM
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I've been using 5-30W for almost a year now. Weird nobody has using this range as well.... Am I screwing up the engine????
Old November-27th-2002 | 05:46 PM
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if you live in a almost always cold area, then 5W-30 is ok. if you live in more warmer places, you may want to change to a higher grade thickness, cuz 5W-30 may be too thin and cause more wear on the engine.
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Old November-28th-2002 | 02:44 PM
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alright, i know i mentioned this before, but now i'm concerned. as i said previously, i've only changed my oil about a little under a thousand miles ago. the color is now like a maple syrup color, and i've noticed very few and small black particles in the oil. honestly, is there something wrong with the engine. how often do you guys change your oil? also, i read on another post that the size of oil filter used may affect the performance of the oil. the one that i bought from the store was smaller than the one i replaced. i'm thinking of buying the one made for the V6 626, which is bigger than the one made for the pro. does anyone have any ideas about any of this?
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