Howdy ho kids,

Well, I have a 1995 Protege LX, with an automatic transmission. I have yet to have the compression checked, but other than that it seems to be a very, very slow starter.

Not to endorse street racing (because i only do this at the track)
but my friends 94 accord can whoop on me all night.

I have a preformance chip, cold air intake and performance headers in my car, but it does not seem to matter, even against his whimpy ghetto rigged cold air intake I get beat.

I am thinking it is the transmission, because i do get good high-end performance, but taking off the line is soo slow, any tips? other than buying a 5-speed tranny?

-Matt

 

ohhh, and here it is

http://members.cardomain.com/mattbeekler

 

Hey, how you doin

Welcome to the board

Very nice car, I especially like the wheels and the interior. For your engine, why don't you talk to Bruce on here and ask him about the turbo that he's working on for his car. That would help you beat your friend's Accord

 

Makaveli.

I wanted to ask you a question regarding your chip and headers. Where did you get them from. I can assume that headers were custom, as I look for a place to make them custom myself, but I never heard of chip for the 2nd gen pros. Thanks.

 

I have the same problem as well. I just think it's more a lack torque that is responsible for the slow start. These cars don't make much power to begin with and when combined with the AT tranny, you lose even more to the wheels than with the 5-speed counterpart. It's to be expected and I don't think it's unusual.

I think a higher stall converter on the car and a baby shot (30-50) of no2 would get you off the line like you want. Other than that, I'm not sure what else you could do with the AT to get it to match the performance of a MT of the line.

 

Im looking for a cheaper way to do it, n02 is kind of expensive, isnt it?

 

You can probably get a Zek kit for anywhere from 500-600 bucks. I've seen Venom NO2 kits for 1200 beans on NOPI.com that was specific to my 1G AT, but I know no one that has it. I've toyed with the idea of NO2...but am savin my money for a new P5.

 

Exactly, 500-600 $$$ what do you think i am? a dealer? geezo. I cant come up with that money unless i get some return. Im thinking more along the lines of shifting, some people told me that if i start in first, and switch to drive at the right RPM it should start up faster... any comments?

 

When I run my car, I have the lever in the "1" position with the "Hold" button on. This allows me to hold the first gear longer (5800RPM if the car shifts itself, and 6250 RPM using hold button). Then I move the lever into the "2" position with the hold button on and again run to 6250RPM, at which point I simply turn the hold button off and the car finds third just as I cross the finish line.

Not sure if your car has the "hold" feature, but it won't help the car get off the line any better and will only help acceleration overall. There is probably a 3 tenths/sec difference between letting the car shift itself versus "manually" shifting the automatic over a quartermile.

Other than that...we're pretty much SOL. Nitrous is a "relatively" cheap means to get the results you want when you compare the cost of doing a manual transmission swap, turbo, etc. When you consider there are no other mods you can do for 500-600 bucks to yield 50hp, nitrous is the best bang for the buck.

 

Ive replaced transmissions in some older style cars. mostly domestic. Moved a automatic from a 67 mustang to a clutch and standard transmission, how hard would it be to replace my automatic with a manual? I can get all the part i need for around 500 $ and i personally like manual better - i bought this car because it was a great deal.

How many man hours for someone reasonable skilled do you think it would take? Clutch, and transmission? I dont know modern transmissions but is three that big of a difference?

 

One more thing, i've been thinking of doing an engine swap, this isnt my everyday car, and it just so happens i came up on about 3 grand just now

Ive been looking at a few different engines to swap with, so far a 626 V6 looks easiest, and cheapest. Its a 1994 626 engine from a wrecked car, it is in good condition. Im gong to get it for around $400, its all sealed, and only had 75,000 miles on it, though it has been sitting on the shelf for a while.

Is this a logical idea or will it be way to much work? This isnt my normal driving car - so time isnt a factor.

 

oooowhaaa

 

your car is badass man...interior looks great(i wanna paint mine too but not sure which color(s)) and those rims are badass...where did you get em and for how much and what kind??? car looks grea though man

i have shifted the car manually before and i think if u leave it in drive with overdrove off it will go a little better...also rev it up to about 2500rpm before u race and with overdrive off it picks up a bit better...

 

How should i go about reving it? Hold the brake, or what? I dont like the idea of nutral drops, dont want to completely ruin the transmission. If i do switch it to manual I can always sell the automatic back. And should i go about leaving overdrive off, does that mean the little light says "O/D Off"?

I got the rims at a local store, 700 $ with tires, they are Eagle Alloys. Ive spent way to much money on this car, but hey, its fun!

 

Okay, I have two questions now.... even though noone answered my last one....

First of all, if I removed my Catalytic converter, would exhaust flow be increased enough to show a difference? Maybe its not ethical, but hey, worth a try..

and second, is that Octane booster stuff really worth it? Does it do anything?