Staying n/a what would be a good way to reach 150 whp on the 2.0 motor? Also keeping it streetable but that shouldnt be a problem I wouldnt think...

 

it's possible to hit those numbers but not without extensive cost and downtime.

This thread will probably turn into an NA vs FI debate but it's inevitable.

To reach 150whp NA you'd need the following:

1. extrude hone heads
2. extrude hone VICS-less intake manifold
3. 4-2-1 equal length exhaust header (no cats)
4. stand alone engine management system
5. custom made camshafts for high rpm power
6. eibach valve springs to spin over 7000rpms
7. short ram intake with massive filter
8. larger throttle body (wouldn't hurt)

Expect to spend $5k+ and be out of your ride for several months.

 

Staying N/A? All the off the shelf parts in the world would only get you MAYBE h alfway from stock to 150... that's including cams, ecu, full exhaust (header, midpipe, and catback), intake, underdrive pulley, vtcs removal, etc.

Thousands of dollars spent to get ~20whp over stock. It's a long haul if you want to stay N/A

 

So whats a more realistic goal? I thought I saw one guy hit like 125 whp with intake/header/exhaust and an ecu change....? Im hoping to be able to take my friends stock specV btw.

 

stock specV is MSP fast and those have 170hp and 170tq. good luck without a turbo or some serious weight reduction, drag radials, and a LSD.

My 03 Protege5 dyno'd 98whp stock. With a header and SRI it bumped it up to about 112whp. A far cry from you'd want to be.

 

I ran my MSP against one of my friends specV @ my last job, i could outrun her, barely... quick little car.

 

when I had my MSP I had severe launching problems at the track and I would always get beat by a friends SpecV...from a roll it was much closer.

 

It's possible to achieve 150HP by staying NA but it's not very cost effective. The cost of parts and the amount of labor required for such a small increase in power is not gonna be worth it for you. You're almost better off just putting the money down towards a Mazdaspeed Protege instead ..

 

or investing in a small dry shot of nitrous. Nice temporary gains when you want it. It would be MUCH cheaper to get 150whp then.... just get an intake, header, exhaust and a $500 ZEX dry kit and be done with it.

 

I thought our engines (FS-DE) aren't very nitrous compatible. Especially dry shot ..

 

^^^ from the research ive done so far i am planning on going with a wet shot its supposed to be more efficient according to zex and other reputable names i am planning on getting a 50-75 wet shot setup here soon hopefully

 

Yes, it's completely possible. There's a guy on another forum who got almost 200whp, but it's on custom internals and it occurs north of 8K RPM. Probably runs like *** below 3K.

 

for 150whp a dry shot is the way to go. I've seen 0 engines pop (mazda or otherwise) with a ZEX dry. I have however seen more than my fair share of wet kit cars destroyed because of the solenoids hanging open.

ZEX is a very safe system, it's the least powerful out there but it is the safest and I'll take that over power anyday.,

The fs-de not nitrous friendly? yeah anything over a 45hp shot is asking for it. The general rule of thumb is 50% of your engines stock output. The rods aren't good for much more. a 35hp shot on a protege with simple boltons will easily do 150whp and be a noticeable kick in the pants.

 

^^what would cause the solenoids to hang open???

 

trash in the lines, faulty solenoids, cheap parts.

I've personally installed 5-7 Zex dry systems on import 4 cylinders with NO problems. We keep the power level low and the expectations lower. This keeps people from getting frustrated and changing out the jets when someone wants to race them.

The problem with nitrous (also boost ) is that once people get that bug they tend to keep turning it up until something breaks. You have to go into it knowing your engine won't hold a whole lot in stock form.