I just changed the oil in our P5 last weekend (1.8K already) and have a few questions:

I was able to utilize a oil-wrench w/some difficulty, and was wondering if there an easier method for replacing the oil-filter?

I am using original 4cylinder mazda filters, and wondering how well the 6cylinder filters work
(I think the longer filters would be easier to install/remove)?

I cleaned up some of the oil run-off with a rag...do you guys hose-off the rear of the block after an oil-change?

I am wondering If anyone is cranking their P5 (w/ignition disabled) to build up the oil pressure prior to starting (after an oil change)?

The last Q was due to slight/momentary valve noise I noticed when I started the P5 after I was done...

Any advise is appreciated,
manny

 

1) you should be able to take the oil filter off by hand once you take off the original filter from the factory. I had no problem taking it off with my bare hands

2) I have the 6cyl Mazda filter on mine, so far so good.

3) I didn't have too much oil run-off since I let the oil drain for a bit before removing the filter. But I would think wiping it down with some rag would be nice, keeps the work clean

4) I didn't have any problem with oil pressure, the car started right up without any weird noises...

 

when I started the P5 after the Oil-change, I thought I heard a SUDDLE change in idle that had an associated tone (noise).

If the P5's filter was mounted upright, I would pour some oil into the filter prior to the filter replacement.

Since this isn't an option, I thought that maybe cranking the motor a few times before ignition may be a good thing?

I will be switching to the 6cylinder filter...too bad I bought SIX 4cylinder units....

Thanks for your replies,
manny

 

SUDDLE, eh? That cracks me up. Are you an english newbie, too?

Anywho, I don't see the point of disabling the ignition. It's extra work and more strain on the battery.

 

SUBTLE.

Please be gentle,
manny

 

Manny,

Did you change the oil when the engine was cold? The noise you heard probably is the same cold start that we all get, yours was just amplified.

I usually change my oil after a few hours of driving. This usually helps loosen up any particles in the oil and makes draining easier.

Later

 

Yes, Fram makes one, and yes they do suck... really bad! I had one on my P5 for about 500 miles until I started doing research and found that they aren't up to par with other filters out there. So I changed my oil to Mobil1 and went with the Mobil1 filter too, the one for the V6's. Now I have no worries.

 

NOT TO MENTION....there is still load on the bearings from the engine turning over just from the compression...UNLESS you remove the sparkplugs too...AND the cam bearings still see load because of the valve springs....

so to accomplish what you REALLY get out of NOT fireing the engine and bringing the engine up to pressure that first time....like I do when I build a NEW motor....you would have to remove the cams....and the sparkplugs....anyway...you see its just not worth it., you get the idea...

what I do is this...I change my oil after warming it all up...that way anthing in the oil gets all mixed up and suspended in the oil so it will not be settled out in the pan when the oil is drained....AND this also leaves a nice oil film on all the surfaces....so you do NOT get a dry start or anything close.

 

Im just wondering is the oil filter in the same location as on the ford probe mounted horizontally on the back of the block.
Im familiar with the 2.0L 4cyl that was used pre 98ish...thinking about getting a new car i decided on a protege.. right now i only have like 140 kms on the car.. but the more knowlege i gain now the easier things should be when i get to do them...

any idea?

 

look at your manual, it'll show you exactly where the filter is, which is in the back of the motor, and you have to go under the car and reach over the driveshaft to get it...

 

YES, that is EXACTLY where it is.

 

To avoid low oil pressure on startup, I always prefill the new filter. Pour motor oil into it until it's about 3/4 full, slosh it around until all of the oil soaks into the filter element, then repeat the "pour and slosh" technique until it won't soak up any more oil. This way, the engine won't run dry while it fills up the filter.

 

On another note... is this engine prone to HLA(hydraulic lash adjuster) tick... or lifter tick if the oil is dirty? and the transmission is a new transmission not the old CD4E also mated with the 2.0L engine from b4. Im just bringing this up because the previous 2.0L engine and transmission had some common problems that affected the probe/mx6/626.

 

Im just wondering... you guys who are using the v6 filter... do u know if the filer has an anti drainback valve in it.... i recall that the v6 filter doesnt have one because its mounted in a diffrenet position on the six'... this is from what i remember previously coming from being a probe owner.