So I think my alt is goin out... when I step on the brakes my lights dim, when I press the window buttons up or down, the lights go dim on my dash and such... so is that the alt goin out? It also idles pretty low.
Thanks.

 

Troubleshoot the problem It could be the alternator the ECU (the regulator) or the battery.

Each is expensive - so don't just start buying stuff.

 

You might also want to check your connections at the battery, and also check your grounds, make sure they are good. Maybe even try running new thicker guage grounds (don't bother with the kits they are a waste of money), you can just crimp the ends to the ground wires yourself.

 

For the most part if your car starts fairly easily, it's probably not your battery. There's a few ways you can check to see if it's your altenator that's failing. The easiest is to take it to a parts store (i.e - Napa, Parts Source, etc). Most of those places will check your charging system for free. The other way is to get yourself a multimeter and check it yourself. You'll have to disconnect the POS wire from your battery and hook up the multimeter in line with it to your battery. Start your car and look at what your voltage reads. It should read between 13.7 and 14.4. Then turn up your radio/CD, turn on your fan on full and turn on your lights. If you see a considerable drop in voltage (1V or more) that doesn't pick back up, your altenator is going.

 

NO NO NO!

You only disconnect the pos wire and put the meter in line to measure AMPERAGE! (do this when looking for a current drain and you are pulling fuses to find it).

Just put the meter across the pos and neg terminals set to VDC and measure voltage. Everything else nicdemus said was correct.

 

If you need an alternator I can get you a NAPA remanufactured premium alternator for $125+shipping. walk-in price is over $300.

 

just bring in your old alternator to wherever (im pretty sure most auto stores) and get a new one for way cheaper.
i guess that they remanufacture the old, use ones, to be as good as new

 

Agreed. And you don't want to have your meter connected this way and try to start the car. All of the starting current will go through your meter and blow the fuse in the meter. Many DMM's are rated to measure no more than 10 amps, and your starter will draw way more than 10 amps.

 

I work at NAPA. Our electronics are remanufactured by Raylock, considered to be probably the best electronics house in the country. Also the unit I quoted him is our "premium" re-man. It comes with a LIFETIME warranty (free replacement) AND 24/7 roadside assistance for 5years if the alternator ever leaves you stranded.

No'one in the country offers that kind of service.

Just fyi, walk in on the alternator is $300+.

 

Luzer and Da P Funk are right. I got that mixed up with checking for drains. Sorry. I guess I shouldn't drink and post at the same time