Has anyone had any experience, good or bad, with aluminum flywheels for the '01 2.0L Protege. I have a chance to get a REALLY good deal on it and I am trying to decide if it is worth it?

 

what are you looking to gain from it? I've had a couple of lightweight flywheels. they are nice for long road courses or GT racing, maybe better for stop and go traffic, but for drag racing they are detremental. the heavier weight of the flywheel keeps the motor revs up while shifting.

 

I really don't know what I want to get out of it. That is what I was trying to figure out. The reason that I am even trying to decide to put it in my car is because I work for a clutch manufacturer and our aftermarket division is putting together a performance package for the Protege and my car will be the prototype. I have been given the option to put an original flywheel back in it or to have the aluminum put in it. My car is used more as a fun daily driver then anything. I don't drag race it, unless I get beside some hotshot civic. I guess the question is if you could get it for next to nothing would you have it done?

 

first off, define "next to nothing". If I could get it for $25 or less I'd do it. If it's more than $50 I'd say no. Also, I think a clutch will help out a lot more than a flywheel. the Protege clutches are super weak (even the MSP). What you need to do is get your shop to install you a LSD with that clutch. Now THAT will make a difference.

 

The lightweight flywheel is a nightmare on the clutch and cause of the lack of weight there is no inertia to keep the car running so it will constantly die

They do work your car will rev up alot quicker but the best thing to do would be get your stock one machined down to maybe 13lbs ish so it wont stall all the time

 

I've never had a stalling problem. I've run an 8lb flywheel for some time and not had any problems. It revs like a motorcycle but it drops rpms so fast between shifts you almost have to hold your foot on the gas to shift. A lighter flywheel is used mainly for high rpm endurance races where your motor will spend its time at the upper 10% of its rev range. for daily driving or spirited driving I'd just stick with the stock wheel. On my drag race Taurus I had mine machined and dropped 1.5lbs. It wasn't much of a difference but made it a little easier to drive with my stage 2 clutch.

 

you right its when it drops mine isnt in yet got a 7lb fidanza on the way but im expecting a few probs

 

Thanks for all of the help guys. It sounds like I am better off staying with the stock FW. The guys at our aftermarket division just wanted to put a 7.5lbs Fidanza FW in with their new performance clutch package to see how it would work, but I think that I am going to have them put a stock one back in. Then again I may use the Aluminum for a while an see how it works. Thanks agin for all of your help. At least now I know what to expect.

BTW... If any of you are looking for a better clutch for the Protege let me know and I can get you hooked up with our aftermarket division (and just so you know, we are not some small time clutch manufacturer. We supply to about 70% of the U.S. auto industry and much of Europe).

 

some real bad information here...

the flywheel is going to benefit you in acceleration...

yes..you will need to rev the engine a bit more to start, but it is not an issue.

....there is no problem with downshifting or idle... die??? constatntly?

my only recommendation is to install a flywheel when other things are getting done...ie clutch and or LSD.

 

Hi mate yeah your right I was poss a bit over board on my post sorry !!

but I see your running a 9lb one which should be fine have you had any experience with the 7lb ?? i know its only minimul but.............. worth an ask !!

Cause the guys I know running the 7lb have very high idles to compensate

 

hmm...what kind of prices can you get us for a good clutch for the 2.0L motor?? I've been thinking about this for a little while and the stock MSP unit isn't strong enough for me.

 

no need to be sorry.... I think I came off as a bit of an ***...my appologies.

i do not personally have experience with anything lower than 9lbs. I had 9.5 on my civic...and 9 on my buddies Mazda 626.

7lbs is pushing the limits......

www.rr-racing.com is a great place for Clutch/Flywheels.

they have been in business for years supporting our cousins; Mazda 626, Ford Probe and Mx6.

enjoy!

 

for the ACT clutch, it says that the clutch should be used for a non daily driver because its "harsh ---"

i cant remember, it said harsh something, can anyone explain this?

 

i plan on buying the UR Flywheel (9lbs) and the ACT Street Performance Clutch...just for ***** and giggles (probably later this summer)...any GOOD reason why i shouldn't?

 

They are probably talking about engagement. Depending on what level clutch you are talking about it could have a harsh engagement. On a rigid disc there is nothing to dampen the torque input to the transmission during the engagement of the clutch so it makes it kind of uncomfotable to drive on the street. My suggestion is that if you are not going to race the car then stick to a typical clutch and damped disc with an organic facing.

STAY AWAY FORM KEVLAR! It is false advertisement and does nothing for the performance of the clutch. It DOES NOT increase the coefficient of friction, it actually decrease as the temp increases. the only thing that it does is increases burst speed slightly. So what that means is that it will slip sooner and if you miss a shift it won't burst.