Better Grounding
#16
Originally Posted by macdaddyslomo
...In the future also,please don't go spreading your opinion as fact...the only way your Multimeter is going to give you good solid info is if you compare the stock readings to readings you take after doing the ground
#17
Hey big guy...once again I advised you where the facts are..sport compact car...If you want to see then yourself look it up....and as far as my tone..I am a moderator here, not you. It is my job to make sure people are not spreading their personal opinion as fact
#18
just to prove a point...heres a dyno run on a VW forum where guy gained 5-6 whp from simply installing a grounding kit....
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1138874&page=2
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1138874&page=2
#19
and yet again here's more info with proof
http://www.import-racer.com/hyperground/
now somebody post me a good own3d pic
http://www.import-racer.com/hyperground/
now somebody post me a good own3d pic
#22
Here's my 2 cents...
I bought a JDM grounding kit a couple of years ago. It was about $100 Canadian and was a 8 gauge set. I did not notice any hop gains but like macdaddyslomo said, there could not been more than 1 or 2 hp. Certainly not enough to actually "feel." However, the lights were no longer dimming when there was a higher demand on the electtically system and I was not getting shocked when getting out of the car.
I've since then made my own kit with 4 gauge amp wire at a cost of about $30. The 8 gauge and 4 gauge work about the same. However, I have noticed a difference in ground points and in ground methods. The "daisy chain" method as patented by Sun Microsystems doesn't seem as effective as just having all your leads run to the battery post.
I bought a JDM grounding kit a couple of years ago. It was about $100 Canadian and was a 8 gauge set. I did not notice any hop gains but like macdaddyslomo said, there could not been more than 1 or 2 hp. Certainly not enough to actually "feel." However, the lights were no longer dimming when there was a higher demand on the electtically system and I was not getting shocked when getting out of the car.
I've since then made my own kit with 4 gauge amp wire at a cost of about $30. The 8 gauge and 4 gauge work about the same. However, I have noticed a difference in ground points and in ground methods. The "daisy chain" method as patented by Sun Microsystems doesn't seem as effective as just having all your leads run to the battery post.
#23
your opinion
Originally Posted by macdaddyslomo
just to prove a point...heres a dyno run on a VW forum where guy gained 5-6 whp from simply installing a grounding kit....
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1138874&page=2
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1138874&page=2
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...932026397&rd=1
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...933011706&rd=1
#25
I did this a couple months ago. I had an old 4 ga amp kit lying around, so I thought what the hell. I went from the Strut tower(stock grounding point)>neg battery terminal>tranny>valve cover>frame on passenger side of car. I noticed a little difference w/the lights dimming, even more so when I got new battery terminals (from KnuKoncepts, looks really cool.) Try it, I would say its worth the $20-$30 you'll spend on it.
#26
what a full circle grounding does is allows the sensors to get a cleaner signal, thus read more accurately. I have dont it to my pro, my jetta, my audi and my subaru and been pleased everytime...you're NOT gonna pick up a tenth in your et's by any means,but I notice a smoother idle/run for sure...
I made my own. Screw buying them....attached to the alt, engine block, strut towers (both) and intake manni
I made my own. Screw buying them....attached to the alt, engine block, strut towers (both) and intake manni
#27
Last August, I purchase a JDM kit off Ebay and installed in my MSP. This was about $40 including shippin. It had central battery post mount and multiple leads (up to seven). I connected to right strut tower, left strut tower, firewall, intake manifold, cylinder head. I have not connected to alternator are headlamps yet.
I did notice RPM's drop from ~800 to ~650 at warm idle. Low end acceleration did appear to be more responsive and smoother. Never dyno'd this. I maybe picked up another 1-2 mile per gallon highway. All in all, I think for a low cost mod, it is not a bad investment.
I did notice RPM's drop from ~800 to ~650 at warm idle. Low end acceleration did appear to be more responsive and smoother. Never dyno'd this. I maybe picked up another 1-2 mile per gallon highway. All in all, I think for a low cost mod, it is not a bad investment.
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