yeah i see its a 60mm. sorry
but the rest of the info please

 

So I'm confused, mainly because the dyno graph is very small and a bit hard to read the numbers. What were your HP/TQ numbers before and after? .

All in all thats a pretty good improvement for such a small amount of work. Is the TB larger meaning the coupling to the intake is larger as well? Or was it just increased a bit to flow better and can hook right up to the stock intake (I have an AEM Short ram) just curious. Thanks!

Chris

 

See, I told you guys that opening up the throttle body helps.
J/K. Anyway, good work. Anything that is a proven gain for these cars is a definite plus.

 

http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/2419543.jpg - larger / clearer

Stock at the Ground 99FWHP 106LBFT
Tuned at the Ground 105.3HP 117.9LBFT
60mmtb, K&N Cone filter, Cam gears set -89 octane midgrade from Shell-

thats a total of 6.3hp 11.9lbft increase at peak readings. The driveability has GREATLY improved due to the increase torque under the curve. peak hp is useless.. low end grunt to pull a ZX3 Focus, and worry a few others at a track is what we are tuning this car for. I've been buggin him.. he's GOT to shift this car at a max rpm of 4800-5000. anything past that is just sucking wind and loosing ground.

I'll post the Cam gear settings and the NEW dyno numbers with the Header and Exhaust upgrade. the first of next week.. got a busy weekend!

we are heading to the local strip tonight... I'm gunna run my bike for the first time on a strip and run a grudge match -My Wifes High Boost Turbo Diesel New Beetle vs S/C Focus and the above Pro 5 vs a N/A Focus. I'll post pics.

I'll post prices and their contact information soon. the parts we are using are for R&D.

 

Well its nice to see somebody dynoing after each part for the most part. I look forward to your numbers. So next up is exhaust and header right? After that its the sunbelt cams? I can't wait .

Chris

 

so did they bore out the stock TB all the way, including around the Throttle plate and replace it with a new larger plate? Or, is it just enlarged up to the throttle plate? Just curious. Also, are the cams being made with stock MAzda blanks that are ground to spec? Thanks, chris j.

 

the TB was line bored.. and a new 59.903mm butterfly was installed... the Cams are nickle regrinds.. but bar stock grinds are available at considerable additional cost. but there is no additional HP/TQ increase. and the wear charactoristics are virtually identical. Japanese spec factory cams are also somthing to consider.

My Father and I put nickle regrinds in his Lotus Europa and his 74 XJ12L both have over 70k miles on them and dyno within 2% of when we first replaced the engine and cams over 15 years ago. I've got a regrind in my nitrous fed Fiero 34k miles and no lobe wear noticable with visual inspection back in january when the heads were off the car.

 

A diesel beetle at the drags? Sorry if I find humor in that, but it's something you don't see every day.

Please let us know when you drop the new cams in and degree them. I'd really love to know the durations, and I assume the lift is such that the valves/springs need rewoked. I have a set of hardface regrinds @ 228/230 degrees that I'm having 2nd thoughts about using. That's why I ask. I had hoped to raise the shift point to around the rev limiter with them. Now seems stronger rods may be called for first.

YZF-R6, mid 10.3 @ 126 mph back to back with a stickly slick. Not bad huh?

 

Dude! i just realised you live in Kennesaw? I live in Alpharetta and used to live in douglasville! Ive never heard of Balanced Performance. Been to and used the dyno at Engineered Performance in Smyrna behind the NOPI store off of Spring St. by cumberland mall. Anyways, where'd you get those cam gears and how much, and how much and who bored your TB?

 

oh yeah and how do you like your Suzuki SV650S? My friend and I are both looking at getting one. I think its an awesome bike for the money!

 

i don't want to sound like an ***, but all of your torque gains were below 4750rpm. if i was going to build and turn an engine, i would try to get more gains up top, while keeping what we have down low. if you could tune your engine to give you at least 100 ft-lbs across the board, at red line you would have 150+ hp at the wheels. (instead of the wussy 105hp that the stock configuration gives)

just my $0.02

 

I love my SVS.. it'll pull an F4i down the 1/8th mile.. -with a just a few mods it lays down 45.4lbft and 72.1HP- you'll be hard pressed to find that kinda torque in a 4cly bike. if your interested in a bike call Dave Will at Marietta Motorsports tell him Travis sent ya... We meet Tuesdays nights...
________________________



Join US at Suburb-A-Night Pizza Bar in Historic Roswell every Tuesday night at 7pm starting March 4th for Two Wheel Tuesday. Pool table, darts and a BIG screen for the races. We look forward to seeing you ride-up to support this evening of fun and biker-camaraderie. If you need directions you can call Suburb-A-Night at (770) 594-8765.

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back to the car...

You can adjust the cam gears to have more upper RPM torque -BUT- it destroys the daily drivability of the car. advancing the intake cam 6* and retarding the exh 2* the car maks 119.4hp... but only starts to pull decent at 4200rpm.. hardly a useful street car, and as an autocross vehicle the low end torque pulls it out of the cones much better. if this was a closed course Road Atlanta or Roebling Road car the higher hp would be the way to go.. but it's a street driven and short course run vehicle. I worked at EP for 5 years... while Ed Senf owned it.. he's now the dynotuner at Balanced and www.dynotuner.net he helped me build my 12 second Fiero...


the sticker on the windsheild... www.dynotuner.net


-- oh yeah.. www.barrettraceway.com it's free to register.. it's a local forum.. like www.importsouth.com

 

i guess if you autocross and want low rpm pulling power, looks great! myself thinks that the low rpm power on the car stock is fine, and would like it not to feel like it runs out of air after 4000 rpm, but i guessit might take a little more to get the out of the engine.

my ideal scinereo: pull the head, drop in high comp pistons, port and flow the head, get cams ground to provide a fat flat torque curve, remove the VTCS system from the intake, full length header, full exhaust, intake. that would be enough for me. however, i'm looking at almost the cost of an FM turbo system.

 

yeah with a higher budget we could yank the head.. but we're woking on manufacturing bolt-ons. and seeing their improvement over stock... with all the add ons the begi avo turbo systems will respond even better.. the stock pistons are fine with the proper fuel management... 200FWHP isn't hard to get... under boost or spray. the exhaust is a tiny straw.. that makes a decent improvement.. the raises the low end and the upper end torque. I'll post those charts soon.

 

dude,
keep up the great work!