****. I just realized they didn't give me the new data for the 2nd run today. They reprinted the #2 run from last time by mistake. Suffice it to say that it was a decent improvement again with the airbox lid off. I even drilled holes in mine to help airflow. It's not worth the effort as it didn't gain a thing. The only thing that makes a difference is to shitcan the stock box and put something that flows well in it's place. The techs said even getting a MAF adaptor and putting a good cone filter directly on it would work well as long as you made a bracket to keep it from bouncing around. This engine needs more air than the stock box can flow. Period. The graph shows a 3-4 HP increase just about across the board. Anyway, here's run #3 with the exhaust uncorked. The second one is the exhaust cam.


Run #3 April 23rd 2002

RPM Power Torque A/F
2500 50.7 106.4 14.9
2750 53.6 102.4 14.9
3000 60.0 105.0 14.9
3250 65.6 106.0 14.8
3500 72.8 109.2 14.9
3750 78.9 110.5 11.6
4000 84.5 110.9 11.4
4250 90.0 111.2 11.0
4500 95.9 112.0 10.6
4750 99.5 110.0 10.5
5000 100.9 106.0 10.6
5250 104.8 104.8 10.6
5500 106.8 102.0 10.4
5750 106.9 97.7 10.4
6000 107.3 93.9 10.0
6250 105.2 88.4 10.0

Run #3 May 14th 2002

RPM Power Torque A/F
2500 36.3 76.2 14.9 (Didn't have full throttle yet)
2750 54.0 103.2 14.9
3000 58.5 102.3 14.9
3250 64.3 104.0 14.8
3500 72.4 108.7 14.6
3750 78.7 110.3 14.5
4000 84.5 111.0 11.9
4250 90.3 111.6 11.6
4500 96.7 112.9 11.3
4750 100.3 110.9 11.4
5000 103.3 108.5 11.3
5250 107.0 107.0 11.5
5500 110.0 105.1 10.9
5750 110.9 101.3 10.9
6000 111.6 97.7 10.6
6250 111.4 93.4 10.5

There you have it. Notice the exhaust cam run has way more torque and HP higher and for longer. The max power was 112.1 at slightly over 6000 RPM. The exhaust cam gained hardly anything with the stock exhaust in place, but gained 4.8 at the peak and made more power from 4250 on up. It didn't lose any power compared to the stock cam either below 4000. In fact, the numbers were so close you could call it fluctuation between runs. This car is getting a good cat back soon. Also, I'm changing air cleaners. 112 at the wheels is about a 15-16HP gain over stock but the real story is over 4000 rpm. It pulls harder and for longer than the stocker by a long shot. Crank HP is probably around 145 at this point.

We checked the ignition advance all the way up this time. They hooked a computer up to the engine computer to make it give up information. The spark is retarded with only 16 degrees up to about 4000 RPM where it bumps to 22, then 26 at about 5000 and finally 30 at almost 6000. That's really lame. If you want to go the turbo or supercharged route, you can probably run the stock computer but will need to figure a way to keep the spark from advancing to the last step up. If we can keep it at around 26 at full advance, then we should be able to put 10 psi to it no prob as long as we run premium. With the stock advance we probably shouldn't run more than 6 psi at higher rpm.

Anyway, I'm going to put an exhaust on this thing soon. Probably 2.5" from the cat back. I'm getting a new CAI within the next week. Big exhaust won't kill torque. Hell, I ran it with NO exhaust from the cat back and picked up a lot of top end with no loss in bottom end.

 

Yeah, but I got it back when we took off the air cleaner lid. That thing seriously hurts the bottom end with the bigger cam. Also, the exhaust being opened up makes a big difference.

 

it seems then that powerful NA mods to this car would be pre-cat header, fabbed mid-cat pipe, cat-back exhaust, cold air intake, and both JDM cams. cool.

 

Good info traveler

I have but both cams on my 323F 1.8, but at the end of this month i get custom made header 4-1, 2.5" exhaust system without cat, with one resonator and muffler. We dont have 2 cats here in europe, only one under the car. And then at the next month i should get the cone filter and then i think im done for the moment, after i have tried what is a difference in the ECU of 2.0 sportive engine
I want to but that ecu on my car and see if there is a difference.... and maeby then go to the dyno and give the info what happens with the engine on european models

 

Well I've got a bunch of mandrel bends on order right now. I could only get the pipe in 16 gauge 1 3/4" dia. Should be about right since that's what JBA and Edelbrock are using for the Zetec. The performance muffler shop that ordered me the pipe also gave me the info on where to get the flanges made at. They said the cylinder head flange only cost them $45 last time they had one made. That leaves the flange that goes to the cat and a collector. Edelbrock is claiming 5 lbs of torque on the 5 speed and 15 lbs of torque on the auto Zetec. I'm hoping to get that. Going to **** me off if going to all the work of fabricating a header doesn't make much difference.

There are high flow cats available also to replace the #2 cat with. It's pretty universal. All you'd need to do is get one with a larger Inlet/Outlet and replace it. I'm checking on prices for those also. The #1 we're stuck with unless we put a full length header in and run emissions illegal. A blower is beginning to look real good right about now.

 

I have the FS-ZE engine in my MP3, and here is the link to the Dyno for it: FS-ZE MP3 Dyno

Keep in mind guys that I have the stock intake manifold.

 

Yeah, that's a bit low for an FS-ZE considering what you probably paid! Even with the mods that I've done, I'll only be gaining 16HP over stock even when I get the cat back on. The owner of the shop says that getting the timing advanced at lower RPM and taking some fuel out after it goes to open loop at around 3700 will really help to the tune of 12-15 HP but it will cost about $1000 to do it. That's just not good return. I'm going to quit goofing off here and think forced induction.

One other possibility that he mentioned was getting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and cut back the fuel pressure a couple psi. The computer will compensate in closed loop since it will be well within range but it will lean out WOT. I'm going to try that first as a much cheaper way of leaning out the WAY rich WOT setting. Anyone know where I can get an adjustable regulator?

I'm going to go ahead and build a shorty header to bolt up to the stock cat and see what it does first though. If I see much of a gain in it, would anyone be interested if I started to produce them? My goal is to get this car up to 125 WHP normally aspirated before I rip it all apart and start building a blower manifold and brackets. That would be an approximate 30 HP gain over stock and would make the car a lot more fun to drive.

Anyone interested if I start making a blower kit? I've got some extra time to R&D some parts and a fairly decent shop so I'm going to start getting serious about building some parts. Also, how about machined aluminum parts for dress up i.e. brackets and mounts?

 

Count me in on both counts..

 

I'd be interested too

 

I want a manifold made myself.

 

depending on if I go to Hawaii or not, I might be interested in a blower

 

Have you tried this allready?

 

I think that one thing that may be wrong also is the fact that my Cam Angle Sensor is damaged. When I replace it, I think I may see more gains.

 

Nobody offers an adjustable regulator for the new returnless system that I've been able to find. The header is on (see '3rd gen header pics') and the gain was pretty decent. It's still running too rich but now it doesn't go way rich until over 5000 RPM instead of 3700. Still, it needs better mapping on both the ignition and fuel maps in order to optimize the engine. I've been told to expect a realistic 12-15% if I go to a stand alone because our maps are so lousy.