I know this topic has been discussed a lot, but I'd really like everyones direct input into my questions.
I own a 2002 Protege ES (automatic).

1. I heard the FS-ZE is a direct bolt on meaning I would simply replace the existing FS-DE with the FS-ZE. Is this true?

2. Will the FS-ZE work okay with my automatic transmission?

3. I live in Canada, how would I go about aquiring an FS-ZE?

4. How much will this conversion cost me? (CAN $$)

5. Is this the most cost effective modification I can do?

The Protege is a great car and everything, but it is so lacking in power when you need it. If I find this conversion to be less than $5000.00, then I'll consider doing it. If not, I may consider trading in my Protege for a Nissan Sentra SE-R. So what do you guys think?

 

PM "UPSMan" or "EETERP". They have done this already.

 

if you knew it was discussed a lot, how come you didn't do a search?

 

I did run a search. But I wanted a more specific answer. I think that was indicated in my first post.

 

Ok here's my input from what I absorbed from the many threads regarding this topic.

1. Yes, the engine is a direct fit, it is similar to the FS-De it design, no major modifications are required. The difference of the FS-ZE are in the higher compression pistons, intake and exhaust camshafts and the intake manifold amogst some other things I can't recall. The biggest difference is the ECU, the JDM ECU of the FS-ZE is OBD1, whereas the NA FS-DE ECU is OBD2 for more stringent emission requirements. Without the JDM ECU, you will net nowhere near the claimed 170hp at the crank (although, the JDM uses PS instead of HP so it may mean even less HP) of the FS-ZE engine. Gains with the FS-ZE engine and the FS-DE ECU will be around the 150hp at the crank.


2. The FS-ZE has less torque than the FS-DE. I don't know what this means, it may or may not the auto can withstand the power. However, no one I know as done the FS-ZE swap with an auto before, so seek professional advice before you do anything.

3 and 4. go to "www.corksport.com". They sell used JDM engines amongst other things. The price I don't know about, but they are US prices, so do the US/CAN $conversion.

5. The most cost effective mod yuo can do for power is to add a turbo kit. Many are available now. The best one I think is the BEGI turbo kit. Do a search on Yahoo for it and you will come up with the webiste. It costs around $4000US and is comprsied of good components and all the other crap. This will get you around 170hp and 170lb/torque on mild boost levels, say 7psi. Gains will be even more impressive when you add the thermal exhaust for the turbo also availble from thier site. The problem is however, they still have to do some final testing for use with an auto tranny. Give them a call for more info.



The above is not 100% correct, however I think it is sufficient for an overview. Seek professional advice before commencing anything. I assume no legal responsibility for anything.

Just stick around the forum and you'll find alot more info. Hope I helped.

 

Thanks for all the info, it really helps a lot.

 

No problem man. Glad to help.

 

Yeah a turbo would be the most cost productive upgrade and the claimed 170hp from BEGI's is at the wheels, not at the crank.

Its true that the ZE has less torque than the DE (132lb/ft vs. 135lb/ft respectively), but its more the fact that it is at a slightly higher RPM, meaning it won't give you as much punch just driving around town (I have never driven a ZE equipped car, this is just an assumption. It may be no different). I vaguely remember reading about EGR fittings and sensors or whatever not lining up with the US. Protege and ZE engine, and am not sure what was done to counter this, if anything...

 

"EETERP" ran his FS-ZE car at the track and got high 15s which is a lot better than the regular pros. I don't think his ecu was functioning correctly either, cause his car was in the shop for a while. So you can probably get slighty better times.

 

High 15's is not a lot better than a stock 2.0L protege. There was a guy on the forum about a year ago that was breaking 16 with a stock P5 5speed.

 

Yeh, but he did that without mods and an ECU that wasn't completely funtional.

 

Actually, my car dynoed with 130lb/ft to the WHEELS and a similar wheel horsepower number. With stock rims/tires and a decent driver, high 15s are achievable. The major problem is the location of the stock cat. The fs-ze equipped cars in Japan don't have a power-robbing cat close to the engine in the exhaust manifold. Good headers should help A LOT here.

That said, turbo will ultimately gain more power at a cheaper hp/$ rate.


If you believe a stock P5 ran sub-16s then, I have a real nice bridge in NY to sell you...

 

So how's the "Half-assed Sport 20" behaving these days?

 

What type of Dyno was used? Mazda claims 132lb/ft of torque at the crank. Its also in the FAQ. If that checks out properly you magically got an engine that creates 30lb/ft more than claimed.

And no the guy I was referring to claimed his car was completely stock with absolutely no modifications. He mentioned that it was not accomplished every time, but in the right conditions with a perfect launch "he" managed it. I don't know if it was true, my point was that high 15's is pretty conservative if the FS-ZE is properly tuned...and high 15's isn't "that" much faster than a stock DE...

 

haha first of i highly doubt he is a better driver than alot of the test drivers that give the 1/4 mile time.
hes a guy from the quebec club and i would love to see this 15second time in a bone stock p5 cuz it will never happen.
Sorry to say but i still think he is full of BS. He claims he did it and so does his friend. If so where are the slips? and better yet i rather see it in person cuz ppl can do alot with photoshop (even though i cant use it)