How do i install an oil pressure guage?
#2
The gauge itself or the sender? Oh wait, by asking about the sender, I assume you have the electric gauge. Please tell me you have the electric gauge.
You can install gauge on the A pillar or bottom or top portion of the dash. I prefer a pod on the A pillar.
For the sender or line tap, you simply need to find a test port. I'll have to take a look at the car during the next oil change to see if there's a good spot. On my Grand Prix, I removed the pressure switch for the "oil" dummy light and installed the Autometer sender there.
You can install gauge on the A pillar or bottom or top portion of the dash. I prefer a pod on the A pillar.
For the sender or line tap, you simply need to find a test port. I'll have to take a look at the car during the next oil change to see if there's a good spot. On my Grand Prix, I removed the pressure switch for the "oil" dummy light and installed the Autometer sender there.
#3
Originally posted by GNO
On my Grand Prix, I removed the pressure switch for the "oil" dummy light and installed the Autometer sender there.
On my Grand Prix, I removed the pressure switch for the "oil" dummy light and installed the Autometer sender there.
#4
I've got several Autometer electrical gauges that I want to mount also. I haven't seen any A pillar mounts for the Protege yet, has anyone else? What do you mean by the bottom or top of the dash? The only place I've been able to locate besides the A pillar, is the pocket under the stereo. I'd like to fabricate an aluminum piece to side into the DIN opening and mount 3 gauges there. Only problem is I'm not sure that opening is tall enough to handle the gauges. Any other mounting ideas?
#6
I seriously doubt that the stock sender would work with a real gauge. Although I haven't personally tried it, everything I've read about newer Mazdas indicates that the sender is just a switch that can only turn an idiot light on and off.
What you will probably need to do is ditch the stock sensor and use an adapter to install the Autometer sensor in the stock sender hole. Here's an example from the Miata.net garage section:
http://www.miata.net/garage/opg2.html
I suggest calling Autometer and asking them if they sell adapters to match the Autometer sender to the Protege sender hole. You may have to pull the stock sender and measure the thread size.
What you will probably need to do is ditch the stock sensor and use an adapter to install the Autometer sensor in the stock sender hole. Here's an example from the Miata.net garage section:
http://www.miata.net/garage/opg2.html
I suggest calling Autometer and asking them if they sell adapters to match the Autometer sender to the Protege sender hole. You may have to pull the stock sender and measure the thread size.
#7
Note to everyone. Only get the electric guages (GNO ) otherwise you have to tap the oil lines somewhere. Bad news.
The dash you can mount on top of the guage cluster (just above the driver's side dash) or inside the cluster (just behind the wheel). A pillar pods are really cool lookin but keep in mind that each gauge is a different distance from you so you have to refocus your eye to each guage....while going 80+ mph this is very dangerous.
The dash you can mount on top of the guage cluster (just above the driver's side dash) or inside the cluster (just behind the wheel). A pillar pods are really cool lookin but keep in mind that each gauge is a different distance from you so you have to refocus your eye to each guage....while going 80+ mph this is very dangerous.
#9
Originally posted by Farsyde
Note to everyone. Only get the electric guages (GNO ) otherwise you have to tap the oil lines somewhere. Bad news.
Note to everyone. Only get the electric guages (GNO ) otherwise you have to tap the oil lines somewhere. Bad news.
1) Get an adapter and hook the gauge's oil line to the stock sender hole.
2) Get a "sandwich" adapter that fits between the oil filter and the engine. These are commonly used to install oil coolers, and are abundantly available for Miatas, which use the same oil filter as a Pro. These adapters usually have an extra port for a gauge.
Also, some experienced engine builders swear by mechanical pressure gauges. They are generally more accurate and offer *much* faster response time than electric gauges. They're just harder to install. If you install a mechanical gauge, you should use stainless-steel braided hose or custom-bent hard steel tubing for the lines into the passenger compartment so you don't run the risk of bathing your legs in hot engine oil when a rubber oil hose breaks
#10
Yeah they do have their advantages, especially in response time since adjusting for a difference in current isn't instant, but reading the actual pressure physically is.
But carguy, those are still "tapping" the oil system. This is what I had in mind....sorry bout the confusion.
Also, the sampling rate of electrical guages is improving by the year, after all, since engines are becoming more computers everyday, there is no reason to beleive electrical guage quality won't surpass that of a mechanical one in the future. Of course this is just my opinion.....I could be wrong
But carguy, those are still "tapping" the oil system. This is what I had in mind....sorry bout the confusion.
Also, the sampling rate of electrical guages is improving by the year, after all, since engines are becoming more computers everyday, there is no reason to beleive electrical guage quality won't surpass that of a mechanical one in the future. Of course this is just my opinion.....I could be wrong
#11
Originally posted by carguycw
If you install a mechanical gauge, you should use stainless-steel braided hose or custom-bent hard steel tubing for the lines into the passenger compartment so you don't run the risk of bathing your legs in hot engine oil when a rubber oil hose breaks
If you install a mechanical gauge, you should use stainless-steel braided hose or custom-bent hard steel tubing for the lines into the passenger compartment so you don't run the risk of bathing your legs in hot engine oil when a rubber oil hose breaks
You can install isolation devices, but then you lose the advantages of response and accuracy.
Last edited by GNO; August-14th-2002 at 04:47 PM.
#13
If you are under your car looking up look on the back of the block to the left and up of the oil filter you will see a little sensor with one wire going to it that is the stock oil pressure sensor. If you got an electirc gauge then the sender shoudl ahve coem with it. as for the size of the threads they are metric threads but extremely close to the 1/8th NPT thread that is on most autometer adapters I just ran a 1/8th NPT tap into the sensor hole and sealed the threads on the new sensor with some teflon gel and let it sit over night for the gel to set. All in all its an easy install. As for the stock sensor you can either lose it or get a brass T from Lowes and connect it inline with the new gauge. Hope that helps....as for pillar pods the one for a 90-97 Miata works fairly well all I had to do is slightly mold it with a heat gun on the ends of the pod to match the stock pillar.
#14
Originally posted by chdesign
as for the size of the threads they are metric threads but extremely close to the 1/8th NPT thread that is on most autometer adapters I just ran a 1/8th NPT tap into the sensor hole and sealed the threads on the new sensor with some teflon gel and let it sit over night for the gel to set.
as for the size of the threads they are metric threads but extremely close to the 1/8th NPT thread that is on most autometer adapters I just ran a 1/8th NPT tap into the sensor hole and sealed the threads on the new sensor with some teflon gel and let it sit over night for the gel to set.
Re-threading the hole may work if you apply lots of sealant, but I'm a bit of a stickler for "doing it right" and I would recommend an adapter rather than taking the risk of messing up the hole in the block. The thought of drilling out and retapping a hole into my oil system (and filling it with metal shavings) makes me cringe.
No offense.
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