I was reading on prtegetech about a possible mod using either a resistor or potentiometer from radio shack to fool the IAT into thinking the air is always cool coming in so it delivers more fuel..supposed to be an easy and cheap mod,you just plug the wires into the IAT....my question is this...where is the IAT located on my 1.6L?????

 

Mazda ECU puts too much fuel in anyway. car runs better with colder air cuz it's denser and has more oxygen, not because ECU puts in more fuel.
Alex

 

wtf??? totally not my question...can anybody actually tell me where the IAT is on my 1.6L

 

Actually, this sounds much like a mod that was done on many NA toyota supra's. It does not add more fuel, it tricks the car into believing it is cold, which advances the timing. I don't know about anyone else, but I keep thinking my car feel faster when it is cold.

The drawback to doing this is, the car is not cold so it idles like hell.

Stocker.

 

It should be a little, 2-wire sensor that plugs into the intake pipe between the air filter and the MAF sensor.

However, I tend to agree with obender66 that messing with it may not achieve anything, except maybe turn on the "Check Engine" light Every test I've seen shows that our engines already run too rich at WOT, so dumping in more fuel will do more harm than good unless you've significantly modded the engine.

Just for grins, however, I will take a look at the service manual when I get home and see what EFI parameters are affected by the IAT output.

 

On my 1.8L, the IAT is located on the top half of the air filter box. It's on the back side as you look at it from the front of the car. I am not positive with the 1.6L, but I think the intake tract is pretty much the same. Hope this helps!

-Jerry

 

almost any car will run better when it is colder due to the air being more dense. I live in florida where its always like 80 degrees but a few months ago the temperature dropped to about 50 degrees and i noticed my car ran alot harder. Someone needs to invent a air conditioner that blows 20 degree air into the intake manifold than that would be a true cold air intake.

 

not a bad idea...maybe run a duct off our ac so we can blow cold air into it...guess it would sorta defeat the purpose since we lose hp with the ac running tho

 

Actually, the A/C clutch disengages and turns off the A/C at WOT. FWIW

 

That would be what an intercooler is for. I wonder how much power an intercooler alone could generate. Of course, you may as well just get a turbo or supercharger with all that replumbing...

I really like Tripoint Engineering's Protege turbo kit. The intercooler mounts in the lower air dam for nice cool air...



-Jerry

 

to answer the first question: dude, if you do not see a black coloured sensor plugged into either your airbox or the intakes tubing to the TB, it may be an internal IAT. in this case it would be mounted into the intake manifold. The Integra Type-R's and GS-R's are like this.

faking the ECU into thinking that the air its ingesting is ambient (not cold guys, cause' technically it should be called Ambient Air Intakes) temp. air would not make the idle 'crap' when the engine is cold. idle would be affected by other variables like, the MAF reading, throttle position sensor, etc. the IAT does not control how or when the engine 'warms up'; that the job of the thermostat. once it reads 160 or 180 degree, it opens and lets in coolant to keep the engine temp in range.

i know this idea was kicked around while i was a member of clubsi.com and although i dont remember what exactly killed the idea, i do know that it was believed to not work or be beneficial.

so does anyone know just how rich we're talking about here? i mean, is it so high that, should the engine not get the amount of air that's pre-determined by the ECU @ WOT (i.e. were the air filter to be restricted by tons of dirt and never changed. like most american auto onwers have right now), it would start fouling plugs and possibly even stalling? i just dont understand why its so rich....oh wait. now i do.

its done because Mazda knows americans, on average are el cheapo's and want to use the cheapest gas they can. so, to appease this rather large group, they had to do so to prevent detonation. its just too bad we arent still using OBD-I and could just re-programme the ECU to change that! it was this very thing that used to tick me off when i had my old 92' SE-R. it actually had 140hp and with a new ECU set to run on 91+ octane, it would pump out 150hp. maybe ours are similar and we can do the same if we can ever figure out how.

 

My bf has a 99 Cougar and over on their boards(Contour as well) they all talk about this mod. Alot of them have done it and have seen great results. They have even done some variations on it:

1. Resistor inline with the IAT so you have a constant lower reading

2. POT installed in the engine bay to dial in a lower temp.

3. Best of all..... wires ran into the cabin with a flip switch as well so you can turn it on and off at will plus adjust the temp setting.

From what I remember, they(the ones with it IN the car) sit there and turn it down until the temp needle falls, then they leave it there

Running higher octane gas it always recommended, and listen for detonation--- if that happens, make the setting "warmer".

They have also done the same sorta mod with the ECT sensor, but that you have to be REALLY carefull about.

Dyno numbers have shown up to an 8 hp gain with just the IAT mod ... not bad for a few pennies.

do a search on http://forums.fastcougar.com for IAT Mod

Pe@ce

 

The reason your car seems to be slower when it's hot is because the intake menifodl has warmed up from the underhood engine temps. Drag racers have been throwing ice onto the intake manifods for some time now to cool it down...Best senario...Hot engine/Cold intake manifold!

My idea (and possibly expensive) would be to periodically spray liquid nitrogen or freon refrigerant into the intake...sorta like a nitrous perge!

 

If we could fool the ECU into thinking that we are getting WARMER air, we might be able to lean it out a bit at WOT. The problem is, the only time it runs rich is at WOT from about 3500 RPM on up. We'd have to put a bypass in that would only work at WOT. We can probably use a throttle switch that is commonly used for nitrous and set it up to work at 90% throttle openings and up. I'm going to check and see where the IAT is on the 2.0 and then I'm going to build one. Will try to hook it to a throttle activated switch. I'll have to try it on the dyno at a later date to see if it leans WOT A/F any.

 

The temp sensor on the 2.0 liter is on the backside of the air filter box (as standing in front of the car). Same as the 1.8 liter.