i got the intake cam on the way, (1)what problems will i have installing the cam? (2)will i need new gaskets of anysort?(3)do i need new values springs, if not than will not worry about it? (4)what about setting the cam up? can i just take the stock one out and drop this one in? any info??

 

1) timing, be carefull, 2) N0, 3)No, 4)Yes, do a search for more info, I'm waiting to do the same thing on my car, only thing is, I want to make sure I know which one is the intake and which one is the exhaust. Bought them used, and want to make sure I've got the right ones in the right boxes. Which cams did you buy? New or used?

 

I don't understand?? Did I do something wrong?? Just trying to help and receive a little in return.

 

hey i got a NEW INTAKE CAM from protege5online/mitch.
it should be here first of week. been told the intake cam will not work right without the exhaust cam is this true???

 

glad you moved it
so mr. smart pants answer the freaking question? HOW TO install the intake cam. did search had no answer.

 

From a previous post that I found while searching for "Cam Profile"

Take off your right front wheel. Take off lower splash gaurd. Take out plug wires. Remove spark plugs. Turn the crank until your motor is lined up at TDC. Remove the valve cover. Remove the cam gears from the camshafts, inherintly removing the timing belt. Using the correct loosen sequence remove the bolts from the 5 cam bearings on top of each camshaft. The number one cam bearing will be harder to remove than the others due to the use of RTV sealant. Install the cam gears(torque to factory spec) onto the new camshaft, make sure you use the stock gasket. Put assembly lube on each of the new camshaft lobes. Lining up the marks on the cam gears place them back into their correct setting (I or E). Put assembly lube on each of the removed cam bearings. Using the correct tightening sequence, replace all cam bearings but number 1 (They are numbered be sure not to mix them up) Put RTV sealant on the number 1 cam bearing for each camshaft. Be sure to tighten all cam bearings to factory torque specs. Loosen your tensioner pulley and replace the timing belt back onto the cam gears. Make sure your motor is still lined up at TDC on the crank and on the cam gears. Replace the valve cover(tightenin sequence and factory torque), plugs, wires, splash gaurd and wheel.

 

If you guys PM me with your e-mail addresses I'll send you the part of the Mazda shop manual that deals with installation of cams..Gives you the steps and torque values. Did mine about 6 months ago..quite easy, just take your time. Took about 2.5 hours.

 

I've got the shop manual as well, just haven't looked at it in too much detail yet.

 

Not true you can run it without the exhaust cam as the J-Spec exhaust cam isnt that far off the stock one anyway

As for installing try this link (I know its a probe) but its running the Fs03 engine

http://home.comcast.net/~nolanspawn/jcam.htm

Just trying to help

P.S. sorry for dragging up an old post

 

Wouldn't replacing only one of the cams create variances in the amount of overlap that would cause problems? It seems the difference in a stock cam and aftermarket would be the cam profile. This is what opens and closes the valve and determines how long it stays open. If this value changes yet the exhaust valves doesn't wouldn't there be a problem with overlap?? Anyone?

 

Easiest way to explain this would be that the amount of time between the intake closing and the exhaust opening is shortened, but they dont overlap....actually by adding the J-spec exhaust cam that period is shortened even further, because the intake and exhaust valves are open even longer, making you even closer to an overlap, however it still wont,still well within tolerances...if you had overlap there is no way the FS-ZE would be even close to a ULEV car cause youd have unburned gas in the exhaust...The reason it makes more power is because the engine is breathing a little deeper...does that make sense to you?

 

Nice explanation

Remember that the intake cam keeps the valves open up until at least 30% of the combustion stroke so...............they really come into their own @ about 4k ish

Also the stock cams are:

Intake:
Lift: 324
Duration: 190

Exhaust:
Lift: 317
Duration: 189

I do believe that the J-Spec exhaust cam isnt a huge way away from the stock one and it would be better on the exhaust side to go custom ??

Can someone clarify please cheers !!

 

depends on what you are looking for...cost effective wise the j-pec is the way to go...no way you'll get a custom grind for under $200...if you want all out performance though and cost isnt an option then you could go with a custom on the intake too....but no the exahust cam isnt that much more aggressive than stock...but you start getting too aggressive and you screw up your idle...want a racing pro?? hehe...seriously the J-spec is best bang for the buck

 

depends on what you are looking for...cost effective wise the j-pec is the way to go...no way you'll get a custom grind for under $200...if you want all out performance though and cost isnt an option then you could go with a custom on the intake too....but no the exahust cam isnt that much more aggressive than stock...but you start getting too aggressive and you screw up your idle...want a racing pro?? hehe...seriously the J-spec is best bang for the buck

 

Yeah just double checking ive got the J-Spec intake but its to cold here to fit at the mo lol

not going with exhaust at mo but gonna go J-spec pistons too with gapless rings etc... in Feb should be nice

Thanks again !!