Intake Manifold - Port & Polish
#16
Originally posted by Patio
I didnt start it, but this isnt 4th grade, I aplogize for the crap Ive put on yalls forum. I was just trying to get some info.
I didnt start it, but this isnt 4th grade, I aplogize for the crap Ive put on yalls forum. I was just trying to get some info.
#17
Originally posted by PseudoRealityX
"i didnt start it" hmm, sounds like 3rd grade to me. Both of you stop bickering. Or IM each other to do it. Sheesh.
"i didnt start it" hmm, sounds like 3rd grade to me. Both of you stop bickering. Or IM each other to do it. Sheesh.
#18
Patio- Are they going to put it on a bench and test the intake before and after? I'd be interested in the flow numbers the intake makes..
And home porters.. it's not rocket science, but if you get greedy or don't measure twice, cut once, you can end up screwing things up royally.. Uneven flow, etc..
And chdesign.. don't worry, it'll rain in Houston again soon, and we'll be back for Chapter 3 of the story..
T
And home porters.. it's not rocket science, but if you get greedy or don't measure twice, cut once, you can end up screwing things up royally.. Uneven flow, etc..
And chdesign.. don't worry, it'll rain in Houston again soon, and we'll be back for Chapter 3 of the story..
T
#20
Originally posted by PseudoRealityX
But the casting is actually different, correct Traveller? If this is the case, i'll BET you lose power on the low end for a slight bump at the top.
I personally think its worth it for the midrange power, but then again, i have a BP, not a FS.
But the casting is actually different, correct Traveller? If this is the case, i'll BET you lose power on the low end for a slight bump at the top.
I personally think its worth it for the midrange power, but then again, i have a BP, not a FS.
I'm thinking about removing it, tapping and plugging the holes, and seeing what happens on the dyno. It's a restriction in the intake right before the head. I would think that I would gain power everywhere since I'd be removing a restriction. It remains to be seen. I'll take it apart soon and see what I think. I may take a pic or two when I do. I still have to put my Greddy e-manage on. I just got switched from working M-F to Tues.-Sat. so I won't be able to do it until Monday probably. Good news is that I got hold of Greddy and they said to ignore the hook up drawing that came with the support tool set. We DO NOT need a limiting resistor on the MAF circuit. That was just for J-spec cars. Also, I have the rotary switch settings if anyone else decides to go this route.
#21
Just a pointer for you Patio if you do get a Port and Polish make sure that the Flow test it. If one cylinder flows more than another you will most likely end up with one cylinder lean and if you are spraying this is especially bad.....Fuel Injectred Port and Polish isn't like a carb 4 banger where you can pretty much whip out the dremel tool and go at it.....to do it right you HAVE to have a flow bench in order to match every port which is one of the purposes of P&P.......oh yeah 100 bucks you must really know someone well it cost me close to 600 for mine but that was also with a 3 angle valve job.
#22
Originally posted by PseudoRealityX
Yeah, i was thinking about the VICS system. Do you or anyone else have a picture of these "tumblers"??
Yeah, i was thinking about the VICS system. Do you or anyone else have a picture of these "tumblers"??
http://members.aol.com/solomiata2/01intake2001.jpg
#23
Hey, wait a sec.... those plates look as if they are screwed on w/ two screws and if so, then why not just unscrew them and take-em' off? I know there will still be a rod or something on which they swivel that is "impeding" the airflow but......would it REALLY be that significant? I mean, unless one is really changing the size of the ports, it really wouldnt matter-or am i wrong here?
I just think that it would be much easier to only have to remove those plates rather than tapp and plug holes and the such.
c/j
I just think that it would be much easier to only have to remove those plates rather than tapp and plug holes and the such.
c/j
#25
Originally posted by Sil_Pro5
Hey, wait a sec.... those plates look as if they are screwed on w/ two screws and if so, then why not just unscrew them and take-em' off? I know there will still be a rod or something on which they swivel that is "impeding" the airflow but......would it REALLY be that significant? I mean, unless one is really changing the size of the ports, it really wouldnt matter-or am i wrong here?
I just think that it would be much easier to only have to remove those plates rather than tapp and plug holes and the such.
c/j
Hey, wait a sec.... those plates look as if they are screwed on w/ two screws and if so, then why not just unscrew them and take-em' off? I know there will still be a rod or something on which they swivel that is "impeding" the airflow but......would it REALLY be that significant? I mean, unless one is really changing the size of the ports, it really wouldnt matter-or am i wrong here?
I just think that it would be much easier to only have to remove those plates rather than tapp and plug holes and the such.
c/j
I think I remember seeing SCC mag try that on a project miata and they ended up losing a lot of low and mid range torque.
#27
#28
Originally posted by kakarot
Here's the link to the article.
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...scc_projmiata/
Here's the link to the article.
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...scc_projmiata/
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