View Poll Results: Will I blow my Motor w/ the Advanced Timing?
Yes the F8cker will shoot a piston!
6
35.29%
I'll be fine, It's a Protege5!
11
64.71%
Voters: 17. You may not vote on this poll
Just Got 10hp in Less Than 15minutes!
#19
Well..Now i have a small problem..
On friday..I was driving..in 3rd gear..accelarting..and i noticed @4500rpms...the car bogged...and i was like
Than i realized that the mp3 ecu retarded back to the mp5 setting...
I have been running 93 octane..ever since the transplant...Anyone have this problem???
I am planning to use octane booster/fuel injector cleaner...and a full tank of 93 octane...and reset the ecu!!
Does anyone know if the ECU will RESET itself??
Chas
On friday..I was driving..in 3rd gear..accelarting..and i noticed @4500rpms...the car bogged...and i was like
Than i realized that the mp3 ecu retarded back to the mp5 setting...
I have been running 93 octane..ever since the transplant...Anyone have this problem???
I am planning to use octane booster/fuel injector cleaner...and a full tank of 93 octane...and reset the ecu!!
Does anyone know if the ECU will RESET itself??
Chas
#20
Chas,
Since we know that all ECU's for the FS series engine are "learning" ECU's, and will adjust the fuel map according to input from the MAF and TPS (with the exception of full throttle when a set fuel map is used) I can assume that the ECU is trying only to do what it has been programmed to do. And that is adjust fuel and timing according to what's happening with the various sensors within the engine.
What may also be happening, is that when you first plugged the ECU into your car, you didn't give it a chance to reset itself. When it was unplugged, it reverted back to it's factory setting, and had to re-learn all the fuel maps, etc for any given RPM and throttle position. Try resetting the ECU by removing the negative battery terminal, and stepping on the brake pedal 3 times. Then, re-connect the battery terminal and start the car. Let it idle for about 10 mins, and you should be set.
Since we know that all ECU's for the FS series engine are "learning" ECU's, and will adjust the fuel map according to input from the MAF and TPS (with the exception of full throttle when a set fuel map is used) I can assume that the ECU is trying only to do what it has been programmed to do. And that is adjust fuel and timing according to what's happening with the various sensors within the engine.
What may also be happening, is that when you first plugged the ECU into your car, you didn't give it a chance to reset itself. When it was unplugged, it reverted back to it's factory setting, and had to re-learn all the fuel maps, etc for any given RPM and throttle position. Try resetting the ECU by removing the negative battery terminal, and stepping on the brake pedal 3 times. Then, re-connect the battery terminal and start the car. Let it idle for about 10 mins, and you should be set.
#21
Well..I filled up on super again today..and used some fuel injector cleaner...and took out the positive to the battery..Does it matter? And really no difference..I am just not sure that it's still there!! It really feels like i lost the HP!!
Anyone know why??
Thanks for the input.. maxx
Chas
Anyone know why??
Thanks for the input.. maxx
Chas
#22
Chas,
For future reference, NEVER REMOVE THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE!!! Always remove the negative one. Removing the positrive cable can still make contact with the frame (negative) and **** up your electronics majorly. YOu need to remove the negative cable to reset the ECU. Remove it, step on the brake pedal 3 times, and reconnect and start the car. Let her idle for 10 mins and you're good to go.
I need more info before I can hypotesize furthur... What else can you tell me about it? Have you sprayed with the new ECU?
For future reference, NEVER REMOVE THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE!!! Always remove the negative one. Removing the positrive cable can still make contact with the frame (negative) and **** up your electronics majorly. YOu need to remove the negative cable to reset the ECU. Remove it, step on the brake pedal 3 times, and reconnect and start the car. Let her idle for 10 mins and you're good to go.
I need more info before I can hypotesize furthur... What else can you tell me about it? Have you sprayed with the new ECU?
#23
For future reference, NEVER REMOVE THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE!!! Always remove the negative one. Removing the positrive cable can still make contact with the frame (negative) and **** up your electronics majorly. YOu need to remove the negative cable to reset the ECU. Remove it, step on the brake pedal 3 times, and reconnect and start the car. Let her idle for 10 mins and you're good to go.
I need more info before I can hypotesize furthur... What else can you tell me about it? Have you sprayed with the new ECU?
I need more info before I can hypotesize furthur... What else can you tell me about it? Have you sprayed with the new ECU?
I have not ran any nitrous b/c the weather in NJ has been brutal..every day rain..EVERY DAY!!
iT'S SUPPOSED TO RAIN TILL Monday...so i will fill on monday..if the weather is nice..
I plan to run a 35 shot..and check the plugs..and than if every thing looks good i will go w/ the 50shot!!
Chas
#24
If you need to access the positive terminal, remove the negative first, pump the brake pedal 3 times to discharge any capacitors in your Protege's electrical systems, THEN remove the positve terminal and you will be able to work on it. When reconnecting the electrical system, do so in REVERSE order, with the negative cable going on last.
#25
Originally posted by Maxx Mazda
Chas,
Since we know that all ECU's for the FS series engine are "learning" ECU's, and will adjust the fuel map according to input from the MAF and TPS (with the exception of full throttle when a set fuel map is used) I can assume that the ECU is trying only to do what it has been programmed to do. And that is adjust fuel and timing according to what's happening with the various sensors within the engine.
Chas,
Since we know that all ECU's for the FS series engine are "learning" ECU's, and will adjust the fuel map according to input from the MAF and TPS (with the exception of full throttle when a set fuel map is used) I can assume that the ECU is trying only to do what it has been programmed to do. And that is adjust fuel and timing according to what's happening with the various sensors within the engine.
also I don't think the ECU can reset back to stock ES specs...If the ECU lost its maps, it would simply not work rather than load ES ones...
You mentioned the rain all of us Eastern people have been getting, the high humidity and various other conditions could have resulted a bog at a certain rpm. Or even a small amount of water in the fuel system or intake track...Also did this happen at WOT or partial throttle? It could have been a hiccup when the ECU decided on which map to use if it was during full throttle...
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