I need someone with a 99-00 to help me out and look in their engine bay

on the passenger side of the engine bay there is a valve just beside the intake manifold with 3 vacuum connections.....one connection goes straight to the intake manifold, one goes to the fuel pressure regulator, and the third one points straight back to firewall and mine doesnt have anything connected, although you can tell by it's condition something was...i couldnt find any loose hoses, so where does it go ?????

 

mike, sorry to thread jack man....would you be interested in a SC kit for your car? I'm going to see what I can do to expand the SC market a little and the 1.6L is a great place to start. You interested in some hands-on time here?

 

It's ok....Actually I am VERY interested in a SC kit...I was looking at possibly making one, since my dad is a welder(for 30 years) and might be able to help me with bracket fabrication. It would be a MUCH simpler install than a turbo, IMHO. I would've been blind though when it comes to calculating boost levels, I'm a little ignorant there. Think it might be possible to keep the A/C though and lose the P/S pump, then go with an electric P/S pump ???

I am in florida, and still would have a baby in the car.

I have my MX-6 to drive, so if you needed to keep the car a while I could leave it.....

PM me with more details

 

bump Matty.....

 

oh sorry man. I don't know anything about thevaccuum line routing thing but I can help out with the blower specs.

I have all of the formulas you'd need to calculate pulley sizes for APPROXIMATE boost levels but there are several other factors that apply. So even the best guesses have to be checked out. According to the math DaveB and I did the pulley we made should've been 6.5psi. It was 4.5psi instead....i dont know where we went wrong. I don't have any loss through an intercooler and there is no excessive piping or strange bends. I'll have to test again with this new blower because the internal step up is 10% higher than the old one so I should be about 5psi assuming everything else is the same.

The problem with AC is that while the AC is running and you go into boost you put an extreme load on the blower belt and it will almost always slip badly. I dont know about your car but the p5 is a 5rib belt and all SC manufacturers recommend no less than a 6 rib belt. Most use 8rib. Also you'll have to make sure the accessories and blower will all turn the correct direction. It may mean finding a reverse rotation blower or coming up with a very complex belt routing system. I couldn't find an affordable self-contained RR blower.

 

I was hoping you would be interested in developing the 1.6L yourself....Should be pretty much the same as your current application, with just different brackets for the S/C..the engine sits in their almost exactly like the FS...if anything charge piping should be a bit easier as the TB sits parallel to the ground, rather than pointing up like the FS does. I was very recently thinking about doing it,I just gave up due to my ignorance with development and install

Doesn't your system really only kick hard boost under full throttle ??? If so at full throttle the A/C compressor disengages anyway on Mazda's to help acceleration.

I know that doctor guy retained his A/C on his S/C system.

I wonder how much it would cost to get some custom pulleys made ???

 

i could do it if there was enough interest in it. Doing a one-off set-up costs a LOT more. I had to pre-negotiate prices assuming Iwould buying in quantity.

anywho.... the way a FI system works is that under LOAD (not wot) you actually leave vaccuum and will start to go into boost. A load could be half throttle up a hill but is not required to be WOT...at WOT you're causing a load but you're also causing it at other times. If you wanna real world example of what I mean install a dual vaccuum/boost gauge and watch the readings...when you're cruising you'll sit about 15h/g but if you tip in on the throttle and it goes to 0 then you're starting to hit boost (assuming you had FI on the car).

There is always a away to make something work where you can keep the AC. The problem is mainly ease of installation, cost, efficiency and reliability. I could've made the 2.0L kit retain AC but it would've added a buttload of cost to the materials not to mention the skill/tools that would be required to relocate and install an electric ps pump, etc....also the AC uses hard lines and they are difficult to work around. removing those ines, pump condensor, brackets really saved a ton of space and weight and allowed me to design pipes that were very free flowing and away from heat sources all while looking good (if I do say so myself)

custom pulleys aren't a big deal....depending on what all is needed I'd say anywhere from $70-100