http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/D.../shiftbush.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/D...shortshift.htm
this is where I got the info on making my own short throw shifter and
the info on the bronzoil bushings . My thanks to Vaughn for the info .
When I made my short throw shifter ,I made the cut and used a piece of 1/2"ID steel pipe .This fits over the stock rod perfectly . It also lenghens the rod below the ball by 3/4 " . You will have to trim the heat sheild to allow for the extra movement .
The bushings fit in perfect as well ,just replace the factory plastic ones with the bronzoil and enjoy crisp fast shifts .
I have done this mod on both 1st gen and 3rd gen It works well and is an inexpensive mod

 

Did you weld the new pipe in place, or tap and thread the ends to screw it all together?

 

is it difficult/expensive to replace auto transmission with standard? what other cars have something symilar so i can adapt it to an MP5??? preferably audi or vw... Thnx!

 

Which car do you have? That would help people give you a more specific answer. It won't be easy, or cheap, but it's doable.

 

to an MP5... it sais in the body... I tryed to reedit the title but it did not work...

and i'm looking to get a gearbox from vw or audi because they have a much shorter run when changing gears than the standard mazda box.

 

When Iremoved the shifter from the car I marked a line on the end i was going to cut . This allows you to align the tube for the boushings the right way . Then make your cut half way between the ball and the bushing tube . there is a rubber boot to protect the ball ,remove this .take your 2"piece of pipe (1/2"ID)and jam it on the ball side then weld it on . grind weld flush then install boot back on pushing it as for up as you can . Take the piece with the tube ,push it onto the pipe aligning up the marks you made . weld this piece in . I used a MIG welder rather than Gas . then file down this weld . paint the new section with rust paint ,install shifter back in the car using the bronzoil bushings . You will have to trim the heat sheild to allow for the extra movement of the shifter below .Malcolm

 

Sounds great Malcolm. I don't know how many people have access to a MIG welder though. I had another idea. Is there enough material on each side of the shifter after you cut it to thread the ends and tap the pipe you're adding so you could screw the whole thing together with a couple of lock nuts? Then it would be adjustable also. Just a thought. Heck, I already have the B&M shifter, but since my stock one is just sitting there unused, hmmm...

 

OK, now I think I get it. You want to swap some other manufacturers manual transaxle into an automatic Protege 5 right? Good luck, I highly doubt anything will bolt right up. Being that the Protege 5 is so new, I doubt anyone would have any detailed information about this yet either. I think the Protege 5 uses the G15M-R manual transaxle stock. The G25M-R transaxle was used for several other cars and should be available with different gearing and final drive ratio. If you got the right box, you could probably use it on the Protege 5 with the stock bellhousing. You would probably have better luck going that route.

 

yesh, definitely, but your answer does not make me happyer than before i was expecting it to be easyer... thnx anyways.

 

Eric rather than use the onr from your 5 get one from a wreckers a1st gen will do ,the ends are the same . I am sure that you would like to keep the stock shofter just incase.
as for putting threads on ,I thought of that but the tabs wheree you thread are only 1/2" long I couldn't get my dies to work . Malcolm

 

OK, as I said, I already have the B&M shifter. It just seemed like an interesting idea at the time. 1/2" isn't long enough to thread and use lock nuts for adjustment. Oh well...

 

Which other transaxle do you want to use and why? What is the advantage to using some other manufacturers transaxle instead of one from Mazda? If you just want the shorter shift throw, you can do that with a Mazda transaxle. The shift throw is determined by the shifter, not the transaxle. Pacesetter and B&M make short throw shifters that work in any year of Protege. Also, you can shorten the lever and throw of the stock shifter if you want to. That has been done and the instructions are posted on this board elsewhere. Do a search and you'll find it.

 

this is to those that have modified thier shifter by removing the stock extension:

how close does it come to your e-brake handle? does it interfere when shifting into 2nd or 4th? what happened to the pictures showing what the shifter looked like when the extension is removed? i want to do it, but i am hesitant because of how short it will be. would it be possible to re-thread the shifter to re-use the stock ****?

thanks for replying.

 

I took of th extension and installed a momo sphere (chrome) and have no problem shitfing gears neither 2, 4 or rev.

Very Very nice shifting now

I have a 2000 lx

 

Here is how I did this mod:

Just made the stock shifter about 2 1/2 inches shorter by removing the extension piece. This is how I did it.
1) Remove the center console trim, it should just pop out.
2) Remove the shift **** and un-hook the shifter boot.
3) you will need a large pipe wrench or a set of vise-grips, a heat gun or a small propane torch( make sure the flame is very low)
4) Start heating the silver colored extension piece for about 3-5 minutes. (Open your windows and open your sunroof if you have one, it'll smell like burnt rubber for a while if you don't do this.
5) Once heated put the wrench on the extension and move the transmission into 4th gear make sure you hold onto the black part of the shifter to keep from twisting it the gears. A couple good tugs on the wrench will break it free.
6) once the extension is off you will have to clean some rubber off of the end of the shifter. I heated it slightly and used a very sharp chisel to scrape off the rubber.
7) you can put the boot and center console back in now all you will need now is a new shifter ****, there will be no threads left, just get one with the allen screws to tighten it on.

Mark