Stock Intake Modification?
#16
I have the K&N drop in and removed all the silencer boxes, leaving only the forward facing hole open. For fear of water coming in and wanting to get cooler air I found some spare industrial flex tubing at work, cut it to about 3', and routed it down to the area in front of the trans where there is a plastic splash guard with two perfectly spaced holes for tying down the end. The tube's opening faces backwards and gets air from a very low area. Also there is a sort of scoop effect in the splash guard that looks like it's for flowing cool air up towards the trans so not all the air is coming from the hot engine bay. Don't know if it has helped performance much but it looks pretty good and sounds great. No drone at all when cruising and a good bassy growl when you get on it. For a ram air effect you could turn the end of the tubing towards the front of the car and shove it thru that scoop opening in the splashgaurd. That way you'd get all outside air and none from the engine compartment.
I think you can find similar tubing at machine tool and woodworking tool supply shops. It's used for dust and vapor control systems, is very heavy duty, and unlike dryer duct is less than 3" diameter and fits the flange on the air box (at least mine did). All I can say is it's cheap cool air.
Jeff M.
2002 Sunlight Silver P5
I think you can find similar tubing at machine tool and woodworking tool supply shops. It's used for dust and vapor control systems, is very heavy duty, and unlike dryer duct is less than 3" diameter and fits the flange on the air box (at least mine did). All I can say is it's cheap cool air.
Jeff M.
2002 Sunlight Silver P5
#18
I thought 2.5" diameter pipe was the optimal size for the intake? Am I wrong on this?
Jeff M.
#19
Jeff... I think that makes a lot of sense to keep that factory rubber. As far as I can tell, it's not the problem. I'm basically looking to replace everything in front of the MAF. Have you thought of ditching the airbox altogether and hooking the tube directly to MAF? That's how the AEM intake is set up, except they're not using the stock rubber on the back end. Of course, you'd have to get a filter for the end of yer hose then.
I've got some ideas on how to do this myself...
Where can I find a dyno and how much does it cost?
I've got some ideas on how to do this myself...
Where can I find a dyno and how much does it cost?
#22
Marc, did I give you permission to link off of my home page??? j/k
Today I took a look around Home Depot to get some new ideas. They make a hardwood floor attachment for a shop vac. One end is 14" x 2" and it tapers at a nice angle to a 2" tube. I'm thinking about placing this facing forward where the stock intake is, and then swiss cheesing the top part of my grill. Then I'll run some of the same shop vac hose directly to the stock filter box. This will allow air straight from the outside, avioding all the engine heat, and looks to total about $15.
I'm still looking though.
Today I took a look around Home Depot to get some new ideas. They make a hardwood floor attachment for a shop vac. One end is 14" x 2" and it tapers at a nice angle to a 2" tube. I'm thinking about placing this facing forward where the stock intake is, and then swiss cheesing the top part of my grill. Then I'll run some of the same shop vac hose directly to the stock filter box. This will allow air straight from the outside, avioding all the engine heat, and looks to total about $15.
I'm still looking though.
#24
Originally posted by mp5
Link removed, dramatic picture lost forever...
this is the only way to fly... (but only greg and I know for sure)
Link removed, dramatic picture lost forever...
this is the only way to fly... (but only greg and I know for sure)
Anyway, I was just joking... it's a pic of your car for chrissake.
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