Hello, I have a 2000 dx 1.6. It has no AC, and 126,000 MI. I haven't changed the timing belt yet, can anyone help me on how to change it?

Thanks,

Curleydx

 

change it now ,as you are on borrowed time

 

why does it matter it's not an interference fit? if it goes then get it towed and then get it changed.

 

the nearest dealer is 50 miles away from where he lives

 

My Mazda mechanic told me that the timing "belt" is different than a timing "chain", and if the belt goes out, you're looking at an expensive valve job (at least) in addition to belt replacement. The chain, however, is just replaced when it goes out.

The MP5 uses the belt, I believe. In my old 323, I changed the belt every 50-60K miles.

 

toattled: This engine is not interference. That's where the pistons hit the valves. Like most hondas. This is done this way to raise the compression ratio,this increases HP. My only question about doing the job correctly was locating TDC without a distributor. I think with MAZDATECH'S help, I can do the job!

Later,

Curleydx

 

Hi, I new here. I've a 1999 Mazda 323 Astina. It's just turned over 200,000km (in Australia, so I don't know how many miles that would be). Toyotas have their timing belt replaced at 200,000km so, I assume that the 323 would be the same. It's a great little car (1.8l). It's now developed a beeping noise - two beeps when you turn the ignition off. Does this mean the timing belt needs replacing or is it more sinister? The Owner's manual doesn't really discuss the issue.

 

The chiltons repair manual will walk you right through the process if you can get one. Basically though you remove the two accessory belts, then you have to support the motor with a jack, then unhook the front motor mount. Then you remove the waterpump pulley (3 - 10mm bolts). Now Lose the the bottom pulley, same 10mm bolts. Remove the three plastic timing belt covers and take note of the notches on the inner pulleys. You want to crank the bottom of the motor with a Large socket unit you have your pulleys aligned correctly, their are two dots on the top pulleys which I believe will both point towards each other in the center and a mark on the bottom pulley, this one points straight up at TDC. Now yank the belt and line your pulleys back up exactly when applying the new belt, turn one pulley with a socket if you need too. Once lined up bolt everything back up. The belt tension is adjusted by the spring so just tighten it up and get that dude back on the road

 

 

I just changed timing belt in mine,went ahead and changed the water pump as well you have to go through all the steps to change it as the timing belt.always a good idea to do in a timing belt change.just make sure timing marks on crank is straight up and the marks on the cam shafts (on back side)face each other level with the head,not real hard to do just take your time and make sure everything lines up.I bought a whole timing belt replacement kit that included timing belt,water pump & gasket new oil seals and valve cover gasket.car has 148,000 miles