I am planning on changing my ATF to a synthetic. Is it as easy as draining out the old and putting in the new? Should I change the filter also? I tried downloading the appropriate section of the service manual from this site: http://protege5.ugly.net/#GEN but I keep getting errors when I try to open it. Any info would help. Thanks

 

From the workshop manual
----------------------------------
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (ATF) REPLACEMENT

Warning
• When the transaxle and ATF are hot, they can badly burn you. Turn off the engine and wait until
they are cool before changing the ATF.
1. Remove the oil dipstick.
2. Remove the drain plug and washer.
3. Drain the ATF into a container.
4. Install a new washer and the drain plug.
Tightening torque
30—41 N·m {3.0—4.2 kgf·m, 22—30 ft·lbf}
5. Add the specified type of ATF through the oil filler
tube until ATF level reaches lower notch of
dipstick.
ATF type
M-V or equivalent (e.g. Dexron®III)
6. That the ATF level is in the HOT (65 °C {149 °F}) range.
7. Add ATF to the specified level if necessary.

 

From the workshop manual
----------------------------------
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (ATF) REPLACEMENT

Warning
• When the transaxle and ATF are hot, they can badly burn you. Turn off the engine and wait until
they are cool before changing the ATF.
1. Remove the oil dipstick.
2. Remove the drain plug and washer.
3. Drain the ATF into a container.
4. Install a new washer and the drain plug.
Tightening torque
30—41 N·m {3.0—4.2 kgf·m, 22—30 ft·lbf}
5. Add the specified type of ATF through the oil filler
tube until ATF level reaches lower notch of
dipstick.
ATF type
M-V or equivalent (e.g. Dexron®III)
6. That the ATF level is in the HOT (65 °C {149 °F}) range.
7. Add ATF to the specified level if necessary.I don't see how that would remove all of the fluid short of a flush. From my (very) limited knowledge of ATs, doesn't the torque convert retain quite a bit of fluid? I'm not privy to the details of the flush procedure either. You may want to look into that.

As far as the filter goes...how many miles are on the tranny? If there are a significant number of miles and you are mechanically inclined, I'd say yes; replace the filter. In doing so, you may need to replace the tranny's 'pan' gasket as well in that the filter is internal on most ATs.

 

I don't have a lot of miles, 13,500. My main concern is if it is bad to mix synthetic and regular ATF. If not I wouldn't bother to remove the pan to get to the filter.

 

It's not bad to mix the two. Yes, there's plenty in the torque convertor as well.

I've read bad things about the powered flush. Some guy that worked at a tranny shop mentioned that the flushing pressure is higher than normal operating pressure and then particles get forced into places they normally wouldn't go. He went on to say that they no longer do the power flushes since they ended up having to rebuild trannies due to this problem.

I really don't see the point in using synethic ATF either. Normal ATF is already a synthetic blend. ATF doesn't get exposed to the combusion temperatures or pick up contaminatants from condensation and combustion like motor oil does. Yes, it's a better lubricant. Do you really want your clutch plates slipping more than they already are?

 

No real need to go synthetic. Also, if you want to flush, here's what we do. Find the pressure line from the tranny (usually the one that goes to the top of the radiator/cooler fitting). Disconnect that, put it somewhere low pointing into a container. Then start the car. The fluid should be running out into the container (I recommend a drain pan). As soon as the fluid starts to act like it's part air coming out, shut the car off. Put 2 quarts of fresh fluid in, and repeat. Do this 3 times (6 quarts). Then, replace the cooler line and fill the tranny to the proper level with the engine running.

We have a flushing machine at the shop, but no one uses it. Using the steps that I just outlined, you will get about 95-98% of the old fluid out and flush all the valves. Also, it uses only the tranny's own fluid pressure so no danger of popping an internal seal. You shouldn't need to change the filter or remove the drain plug unless you want to get the last little bit of fluid out after the last flush. Most manufacturers are going to the 'lifetime fill' synthetic fluids, but they are breaking down just like the Dexron III which means that it looks terrible at the 100,000 mile mark. It's better to change it regularly.

Once you change over to synthetic, you're never supposed to change back or you'll have a problem with the clutch packs. That's one reason you don't want to change. The other is, that some nimrod at a dealer or more likely a lube shop will forget to use the stuff you told him to. Or you won't be there in the shop with them to remind them. We've had a couple trannys that didn't go warranty because of that. The customer ended up paying for a tranny and had to try to collect from the lube shop. Not good.

Anyway, that's what we do at the big shop.

 

there is no filter to change. there is a screen, but you don't need to mess with it.

 

Can somebody tell me if all auto trannies work on the same principle (No filter to replace) I have a 01 pro 1.6 L and was wondering if the fluid can be drained like my 98 mystique! I had a drain plug on the bottom and would just empty as much out as possible and then fill. I would then drive the car for 1000kms and do a drain and fill again. Is this the same procedure, or do all the 1.6L have a filter that must be changed? Thanks in advance!

 

Is there a drain plug and will the Mobil ATF mix well with the manufacturers stuff thats in there now ? I know of cars with drain plugs and other with just the pans that have to be removed! Thanks in advance!