Went and ran the 1/4 today very pissed
#1
Went and ran the 1/4 today very pissed
Ok i dont get it with a stock motor intake only i ran a 16.9 in 90 degree weather. Now i just forked out mad cash into my engine to get the mods below and i go to the track today to run in 50 degree weather and well before i tell you my time i know i feel a power difference. It feels like i have lots more power. but today i run a 17.4, what the ***** then a 17.2, 17.0, 17.1 and i just cant figure out what the ***** is up!! is it becuase i have not done any ECU tuning yet why o got why does my car hate me!!!! HELP
#3
I was thinking could i be feeling more power becuase of an increase in torque. would i have to make some timing adjustments or something. someone who is smart help me figure out why my car feels faster but is not. its slower
#4
Did you race before with your clutch and flywheel combo?
My friend who shall remain anonymous, ran a best of 15.4 in his car, but recently installed the clutch and flywheel combo and last night could not get below a 15.9!
And yeah...it sucks to fork out the dough only to be slower.
My friend who shall remain anonymous, ran a best of 15.4 in his car, but recently installed the clutch and flywheel combo and last night could not get below a 15.9!
And yeah...it sucks to fork out the dough only to be slower.
#5
Originally posted by Phantom Cruiser
Did you race before with your clutch and flywheel combo?
My friend who shall remain anonymous, ran a best of 15.4 in his car, but recently installed the clutch and flywheel combo and last night could not get below a 15.9!
And yeah...it sucks to fork out the dough only to be slower.
Did you race before with your clutch and flywheel combo?
My friend who shall remain anonymous, ran a best of 15.4 in his car, but recently installed the clutch and flywheel combo and last night could not get below a 15.9!
And yeah...it sucks to fork out the dough only to be slower.
#7
Guest
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you also have to remember in 90 wether your tires are gona be stickier, and you you need to get a est 1/4 miles time on both the 50 degree run and 90 degree run. also did you have your coil overs on your first run b/c suspension does make a difference in drag racing. esp with take off. how high of rpms are you shifting at on the two differnet days.
#8
Guest
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also how many miles were on the car when you did the first runs and how many are on the new engine. some enginre require break in time before they become faster. wierd huh also have you dyno'd your car to make sure everything is working right??
and from what i've gathered from theman, you need the j-spec intake manifold for the cams to make a difference
and from what i've gathered from theman, you need the j-spec intake manifold for the cams to make a difference
#10
Originally posted by walight01
and from what i've gathered from theman, you need the j-spec intake manifold for the cams to make a difference
and from what i've gathered from theman, you need the j-spec intake manifold for the cams to make a difference
FS-ZE manifold to be exact.
do a search, theman has a really good writeup on it.
#11
Originally posted by PseudoRealityX
You have ZERO ecu work done on a OBDII car with headwork and cams, and you're complaining?
Who did your headwork anyway? Any what valvetrain upgrades did you do, and why?
You have ZERO ecu work done on a OBDII car with headwork and cams, and you're complaining?
Who did your headwork anyway? Any what valvetrain upgrades did you do, and why?
#13
Guest
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no exactly, look at the cams/manifold like this
aftermarket springs/struts
if you put the new springs on, the car handles better, but the stock struts(not in your case) and not designed for the spring. so to make the spring perform to its fullest, you need the new strut. the cams will work without the manifold, but you won't see HP increase from it. but it will puller all the way to redline though.
theman should post soon and tell you more about the manifold and cams b/c he knows it best
aftermarket springs/struts
if you put the new springs on, the car handles better, but the stock struts(not in your case) and not designed for the spring. so to make the spring perform to its fullest, you need the new strut. the cams will work without the manifold, but you won't see HP increase from it. but it will puller all the way to redline though.
theman should post soon and tell you more about the manifold and cams b/c he knows it best
#15
Originally posted by pr5owner
take out your AEM bypass.. you don't need that **** and if you wanted to get strait line times then you shoulda just got some nitrous
take out your AEM bypass.. you don't need that **** and if you wanted to get strait line times then you shoulda just got some nitrous