Thanks for the explanation
Now I just have to find a shop in Toronto that sells Motul fluids. (Or I suppose I could go with Redline too)...

I'll probably wait until my next service (10,000 K?) to switch Mobil1 into the engine, but I might make the switch for clutch/brake and tranny before then.

 

I would wait until 10,000 miles before putting synthetic in your engine. And I wouldn't really wait 7500 miles between engine oil changes, no matter what they say.

I ground into second almost all the time after my 700-mile or whatever break in (when I could drive it harder) . It seems to be smoothing out now, but having the disengagement point right on the floor IS kinda weird...

 

ive noted my clutch slipping when disengaging the clutch, is it because I need to give more gas and match revs better, or is it a problem with the car. It might even be my driving sometimes.

some days I shift better than others.

 

1. The hydraulic fluid for the clutch is the same DOT 3 or 4 fluid found in the brake system. Motul or ATE offer higher DRY boiling points, but are probably overkill for the clutch system. Highly recommended for the brakes though.

2. Synthetic gear oil can go into your transmission at any time.

3. Double clutching will reduce the life of your throw out bearing, which could lead to a clutch replacement sooner than normal. A synthetic fluid would be the better solution for easier engagements because it has no drawbacks and many advantages.

 

The reason for double-clutching is to match engine and tranny revs during high-rpm downshifts. This is done because the synchros can't match that type of rev differential. A synthetic lubricant won't help in that situation. It's not a matter of lubrication. It's a matter of gears being able to mesh.

-Jerry

 

I didn't realize that, I am more familiar with Nissan's, which have seperate reservoirs.

 

In order to rev-match during the high rpm downshifts, why not heal and toe instead? Put the clutch in and blip the the throttle with the side of your right foot to raise rpm while sliding the lever into the desired gear, THEN release the clutch. You can rev-match and eliminate the extra wear on the throwout bearing. I use the technique in a 5 speed Maxima that is driven on roadcourses and autocrossed and it works great, especially since that transmission is is really meant for a normal sedan and not exactly what I would call smooth.

 

Really? When did they change that? My '99 certainly doesn't have it!

-Jerry