2000 Protege 1.6L - Timing Belt
#1
2000 Protege 1.6L - Timing Belt
Timing belt on my 2000 Protege DX, 1.6L needs to be replaced. My question is: How come the CA spec timing belt lasts longer. I got this impression from the Gates timing belt chart. It shows regular timing belt replacement duration of 60K miles except CA; which is 105K even the part number is the same. And then model year 2001 timing belt on the chart last 105K generally while the part number is the same as year 2000. Are they talking the same timing belt?
Any advices?
http://www.gates.com/downloads/downl...older=brochure
Any advices?
http://www.gates.com/downloads/downl...older=brochure
#2
That CA stuff is due to their funky laws. In CA (also Mass) a car is not allowed to require a 'major scheduled service' until after 100k miles (a timing belt is considered major service even though it's only a few hours of labor, likely because it is so critical that it is properly done and it's a fairly expensive stop at the dealership). Most other car brands are the same way with the timing belt change interval. I know that they usually say to always replace at the shorter interval in colder climates though.
I think the way it works is this: You should start thinking about replacing the belt after 60k miles, but if you live in the smelly, crowded state of California, you can wait because you have legislation to cover you for being a lazy bum :P
From everything I have read, the CA/MA belts are almost always the same exact belt, so they don't last any longer. Basically it'll last to 100k miles, but if it doesn't you're screwed, so change it as soon as you have the cash to after you hit 60k miles.
From the dealership perspective, it's more money in the pocket. The parts cost them like 60 dollars, they make a huge profit from the service costs for the timing belt. If you replace it every 60k miles, by 200k miles you are well into your 3rd timing belt vs still being on your second but due for replacement.
I think the way it works is this: You should start thinking about replacing the belt after 60k miles, but if you live in the smelly, crowded state of California, you can wait because you have legislation to cover you for being a lazy bum :P
From everything I have read, the CA/MA belts are almost always the same exact belt, so they don't last any longer. Basically it'll last to 100k miles, but if it doesn't you're screwed, so change it as soon as you have the cash to after you hit 60k miles.
From the dealership perspective, it's more money in the pocket. The parts cost them like 60 dollars, they make a huge profit from the service costs for the timing belt. If you replace it every 60k miles, by 200k miles you are well into your 3rd timing belt vs still being on your second but due for replacement.
#3
That CA stuff is due to their funky laws. In CA (also Mass) a car is not allowed to require a 'major scheduled service' until after 100k miles (a timing belt is considered major service even though it's only a few hours of labor, likely because it is so critical that it is properly done and it's a fairly expensive stop at the dealership). Most other car brands are the same way with the timing belt change interval. I know that they usually say to always replace at the shorter interval in colder climates though.
I think the way it works is this: You should start thinking about replacing the belt after 60k miles, but if you live in the smelly, crowded state of California, you can wait because you have legislation to cover you for being a lazy bum :P
From everything I have read, the CA/MA belts are almost always the same exact belt, so they don't last any longer. Basically it'll last to 100k miles, but if it doesn't you're screwed, so change it as soon as you have the cash to after you hit 60k miles.
From the dealership perspective, it's more money in the pocket. The parts cost them like 60 dollars, they make a huge profit from the service costs for the timing belt. If you replace it every 60k miles, by 200k miles you are well into your 3rd timing belt vs still being on your second but due for replacement.
I think the way it works is this: You should start thinking about replacing the belt after 60k miles, but if you live in the smelly, crowded state of California, you can wait because you have legislation to cover you for being a lazy bum :P
From everything I have read, the CA/MA belts are almost always the same exact belt, so they don't last any longer. Basically it'll last to 100k miles, but if it doesn't you're screwed, so change it as soon as you have the cash to after you hit 60k miles.
From the dealership perspective, it's more money in the pocket. The parts cost them like 60 dollars, they make a huge profit from the service costs for the timing belt. If you replace it every 60k miles, by 200k miles you are well into your 3rd timing belt vs still being on your second but due for replacement.
You said you should replace your water pump too when you replace your belt. How do you go about doing that?
#4
The water pump is behind the timing belt.. so the timing belt has to be off to get to it, hence people saying to replace it while you have the timing belt off. I'm not sure on the exact procedure, I'm sure it's just something like this:
1. drain the cooling system
2. unbolt and remove old water pump
3. remove old gasket and clean stuff up
3a. inspect radiator hoses, if they are original ones they're probably kinda dry and well worn.
4. install new gasket and pump, torque bolts to specs.
5. fill the radiator and hoses
6. enjoy
1. drain the cooling system
2. unbolt and remove old water pump
3. remove old gasket and clean stuff up
3a. inspect radiator hoses, if they are original ones they're probably kinda dry and well worn.
4. install new gasket and pump, torque bolts to specs.
5. fill the radiator and hoses
6. enjoy
#5
The water pump is behind the timing belt.. so the timing belt has to be off to get to it, hence people saying to replace it while you have the timing belt off. I'm not sure on the exact procedure, I'm sure it's just something like this:
1. drain the cooling system
2. unbolt and remove old water pump
3. remove old gasket and clean stuff up
3a. inspect radiator hoses, if they are original ones they're probably kinda dry and well worn.
4. install new gasket and pump, torque bolts to specs.
5. fill the radiator and hoses
6. enjoy
1. drain the cooling system
2. unbolt and remove old water pump
3. remove old gasket and clean stuff up
3a. inspect radiator hoses, if they are original ones they're probably kinda dry and well worn.
4. install new gasket and pump, torque bolts to specs.
5. fill the radiator and hoses
6. enjoy
You make it sound so easy. Is that all there really is to it? A new waterpump can be found at Protege Garage or Onlinemazdaparts.com, right?
#6
Only because I didn't go into much detail. Between steps 1 and 2 there's the following:
- removing both accessory belts (loosen the bolts on the power steering pump and the alternator)
- remove the spark plug coils
- remove the valve cover (bunch o bolts)
- remove the two pieces of the timing belt cover (I think the pulley on the water pump has to come off for this step)
- remove the crank pulley (impact wrench or long breaker bar that you are willing to sacrifice)
- remove the timing belt
- removing both accessory belts (loosen the bolts on the power steering pump and the alternator)
- remove the spark plug coils
- remove the valve cover (bunch o bolts)
- remove the two pieces of the timing belt cover (I think the pulley on the water pump has to come off for this step)
- remove the crank pulley (impact wrench or long breaker bar that you are willing to sacrifice)
- remove the timing belt
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Alfetta159
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