what do you mean by "the car will act like its pissed off at you"?

 

I have a 2002.5 P5 with Manual tranny, about 20K miles and it's stock. No CAI or anything and mine will do this occationally. I've noticed that when it does do it, it's usually at a stoplight, and a lot of the time it's when I get off the freeway. AC, no AC, doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

This is the most retarded thing I have ever heard.

 

How about the following?

- rpm too low - When I installed new ignition wires, my rpm at idle dropped from about 1000 to 600. I don't know if any other mods will cause idle rpm to drop. I would be worried about stalling if my idle rpm drops any lower than now.

- engine oil - Not sure about the temperature that your cars run under. Here in Calgary, there can be 20+C temp difference within 1 day. (For those in US, we can experience 50-90F within the same day.) Make sure the engine oil is adjusted for temp changes.

 

@ 40k mikes i started having a rough idle at stop. it stalled in heavy traffic on me once. took it to the dealer and bottom line i need a new egr valve. it was stuck closed not allowing the proper flow of emmisions back into the engine to be reburned. it was not a stock item and i'm waiting for it now,

 

My car is 2003 Protege 5

 

i reset my ecu yesterday, and it seems to be a little better, but i havent really been able to let it sit for a long enough time to really be able to tell....but its seems to be doing ok now, if this doesnt work my car is going in on monday.

 

I installed a custom ground kit and used a 10 guage. It seemed to stop the low rpms from killing the car after I installed them. Before that, I was always afraid that I overran the engine or Mazda just really sucks..

 

I've had it almost-stall while at idle almost since day 1. I've taken it to 2 dealers and they say since there are no engine codes popping up and no lights coming on, there's nothing wrong with the car. I asked them to start replacing the plugs, wires, coil packs, etc., one by one until the problem goes away and they treat me like I'm crazy. After all, I'm just a customer. I've had it with Mazda. I sold my Saturn for bad idling after 200K, and bought a MAzda because I heard they were built right, but all I've done is inherit a bad design that idles poorly after only 2K! And yes, I've played with the EGR, the plugs and wires myself, etc. to no avail. I haven't found any pattern, it'll just be idling around 700 and drop to around 100 for no reason. All I wanted was a car that worked and for $19K I didn't even get that.

2002.5 MP5, currently 20K, manual, bone stock, problem occured after about 2K.

 

there is a tsb for a rough idle because of the fule injection spry pattern, check it out! this wouldn't show a check engine light.

 

I know this tread is a little old, but I just noticed the problem in mine as well. PR5 2003.5, 5000k, only mod is injen CAI that I installed 4 days ago, so the filter is definitly clean and I did reset the ECU. The problem seemed to go away when I turned the air off.

 

well i did an oil change, replaced pcv valve, and sparkplugs, but the problem does not seem to be there anymore. i dont know what fixed it, but next time this happens, ill just change everything again, fairly cheap fix. spark plugs were $3 a piece, pcv valve was like $5, then the oil change...

 

I have a 2001 Protege that does the same thing. I will be sitting at a stoplight and it will feel like it is going to stall. I took it to the dealership and they told me that with the combination of the CAI and the Cams that it might idle at a lower RPM. They told me that they adjusted the idle but that it is computer controled and that the computer might bring it back down???? It didn't help at all!! It still idles at about 700 rpms.

 

not to be off topic here, but proto-J where in ohio you from? check this out: http://www.protegeclub.com/forum/sho...threadid=30024

 

the dealer installed a new pcv valve and new wirs and coil, runs like a charm,,,no more rough idle!