Clicking in the Wheel Well
#1
Clicking in the Wheel Well
2002.5 Protege5 with 123K Miles on it. I've noticed when going over small bumps or turning at low speeds, I often hear a clicking noise similar to a cup being dropped on a table from a short distance and wobbling a bit before it stops. Of course the sound lasts for a fraction of a second, but my description is accurate.
My thoughts lend to hub assembly. With 123K on the hub/bearings, I'm sure most of you will be screaming at me to do them regardless.
1) Anything else it might be whilst I'm looking in there? I've never done the shocks.
2) Sound I replace the hub I think it's coming from or all?
3) Anyone do this an can recommend a reliable after market part or OEM dealer?
Thanks!
My thoughts lend to hub assembly. With 123K on the hub/bearings, I'm sure most of you will be screaming at me to do them regardless.
1) Anything else it might be whilst I'm looking in there? I've never done the shocks.
2) Sound I replace the hub I think it's coming from or all?
3) Anyone do this an can recommend a reliable after market part or OEM dealer?
Thanks!
#2
Check the CV (constant velocity) joints.
(from Wiki):
Constant velocity joints are usually reliable and largely trouble-free. The two main failures are wear and partial seizure.
Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, a driver should find a big empty parking lot and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a "clunk" or "pop" when applying power, or if severe, when lifting off the throttle.
Partial seizure causes a strange "pattering" sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter/boot having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, one can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter/boot. Kits which include the grease, gaiter/boot and retaining clips are available from most automotive manufacturers. Some universal gaiters/boots are split lengthwise enabling them to be fitted without having to disassemble the wheel hub and CV joint.
(from Wiki):
Constant velocity joints are usually reliable and largely trouble-free. The two main failures are wear and partial seizure.
Wear in the outer joint usually shows up as vibration at certain speeds, a bit like the vibration caused by an unbalanced wheel. To determine if the joint is worn, a driver should find a big empty parking lot and drive the car slowly in tight circles, left and right. Worn joints will make a rhythmic clicking or cracking noise. Wear in the inner joints shows up as a "clunk" or "pop" when applying power, or if severe, when lifting off the throttle.
Partial seizure causes a strange "pattering" sensation through the suspension. It is caused by the joint overheating, which in turn is usually caused by the outer joint gaiter/boot having split, allowing the joint to throw out its grease. If caught in time, one can clean the joint carefully, repack with grease and replace the gaiter/boot. Kits which include the grease, gaiter/boot and retaining clips are available from most automotive manufacturers. Some universal gaiters/boots are split lengthwise enabling them to be fitted without having to disassemble the wheel hub and CV joint.
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