Do CD-R's work in your P5 CD Player?
#1
Do CD-R's work in your P5 CD Player?
As you can all see, I'm a newbie here. I have a Silver P5 5-speed. Anyway, I burned a CD of "cruising music", but the CD player won't recognize the CD-R. It will, however, work with regular CD's. Anyone else experience this?
#2
Burned CD's do work in the stock CD player. Did you burn the CD correctly? Put it in a different player, other than the one in your computer, like a diskman or boombox and see if it plays; I doubt it will.
#3
CDR's
They worked fine in mine. Did you 'close' the disc? Is it a CDRW or CDR you are trying to use? Not many cd players recognize a CDRW even when closed unless they are made to read MP3 or DVD. I haven't tried it yet to verify but it wont work in any of my other cars.
#7
Originally posted by TheMAN
Do not use CD-RWs on any head unit unless it says it is compatible. CD-RWs have low reflectivity and require higher powered lasers for them to be read properly.
Do not use CD-RWs on any head unit unless it says it is compatible. CD-RWs have low reflectivity and require higher powered lasers for them to be read properly.
#8
Originally posted by Gro Harlem
Don't go el-cheapo on the brand name CDR's you buy...that could be the problem. If you buy that special "50 CDRs for $8" then they probably are worthless trash.
I've played a few CDR's in my friends 2001 ES protege. and i found these brands to work good:
Verbatim, any kind
Imation, the red spindle ones 80 mins long
TDK, any kind
Plextor CDR's......came with my burner
I found that it had problems with: ANY memorex, and some sony discs :0/
Don't go el-cheapo on the brand name CDR's you buy...that could be the problem. If you buy that special "50 CDRs for $8" then they probably are worthless trash.
I've played a few CDR's in my friends 2001 ES protege. and i found these brands to work good:
Verbatim, any kind
Imation, the red spindle ones 80 mins long
TDK, any kind
Plextor CDR's......came with my burner
I found that it had problems with: ANY memorex, and some sony discs :0/
#12
rash girl
this ol' dog finally learned new tricks!
Made a compilation of drivin' tunes on my home computer... it was a piece of cake!
No skipping or anything! I usually download late at night when the k/s rate is 60+... its a snap! And just in time for Christmas!
Made a compilation of drivin' tunes on my home computer... it was a piece of cake!
No skipping or anything! I usually download late at night when the k/s rate is 60+... its a snap! And just in time for Christmas!
#14
Burning CD's is quirky. There are a lot of factors that effect how well a CD is going to work. I've been burning CDs for about 4 years and have used them on a wide variety of players.
This is what I've noted:
-The media doesn't matter to the player as much as it matters to the writer. So to say brand X is better then brand Y on a particular model of reader is misleading at best. The problem is probably with the burner and the media, not the player and the media. I have a Yamaha burner and I use any media with the expception of Memorex. I buy what is cheapest. There is a program that will read the serial number off the disk and tell you what type of media it is and who makes it. How many companies do you think are out there that make the CDs? Not too many. Don't get fooled by marketing, find the cheapest that works with your writer.
-The software can make a difference. I found I had MUCH better luck with Nero Burning Rom than Adaptec/Roxio EZ-CD Creator. I would suggest anyone out there using the Adaptec product stop immediately and buy Nero. I've also used many others and found Nero to be the best.
-Speed. Speed kills. This is what is going to kill most people especially now that the really fast writers (16X,20X) are released. The faster you burn the less time the laser has to make an impression on the record media. This means that the indent is more shallow and harder for the player to pick up. In my opinion this is leading factor for CDR compatibility. There is also a theory that the quality of duplication is better at lower speeds, especially with lower quality writers. If the audio stream contains errors (or peaks and valley's the reader can't under stand because they are not distinct enough) this may materialize as pops, hisses, poorer sounding audio...this may mean less since most people are using MP3's as source which are already of lower quality.
-The brand of CD Writer. Some are better some are worse. Some writers may require that you burn slower others may not have a problem. I use Plextor and Yamaha exlusively. I've used Ricoh, HP and Panasonic as well and found the Plex. and the Yam. to be more reliable.
I write CDs with Nero using Plextor 12X and a Yamaha 8X writer. I typically write AUDIO cds at 4X and buy the cheapest media possible (Gigastorage!). I have zero problems with either burner. It may take a little more time but I am sure that any of my CD's will work in almost any player.
Bottom line. Find what works for you. But when in doubt try writing slower.
Sorry for the rant
Jay
This is what I've noted:
-The media doesn't matter to the player as much as it matters to the writer. So to say brand X is better then brand Y on a particular model of reader is misleading at best. The problem is probably with the burner and the media, not the player and the media. I have a Yamaha burner and I use any media with the expception of Memorex. I buy what is cheapest. There is a program that will read the serial number off the disk and tell you what type of media it is and who makes it. How many companies do you think are out there that make the CDs? Not too many. Don't get fooled by marketing, find the cheapest that works with your writer.
-The software can make a difference. I found I had MUCH better luck with Nero Burning Rom than Adaptec/Roxio EZ-CD Creator. I would suggest anyone out there using the Adaptec product stop immediately and buy Nero. I've also used many others and found Nero to be the best.
-Speed. Speed kills. This is what is going to kill most people especially now that the really fast writers (16X,20X) are released. The faster you burn the less time the laser has to make an impression on the record media. This means that the indent is more shallow and harder for the player to pick up. In my opinion this is leading factor for CDR compatibility. There is also a theory that the quality of duplication is better at lower speeds, especially with lower quality writers. If the audio stream contains errors (or peaks and valley's the reader can't under stand because they are not distinct enough) this may materialize as pops, hisses, poorer sounding audio...this may mean less since most people are using MP3's as source which are already of lower quality.
-The brand of CD Writer. Some are better some are worse. Some writers may require that you burn slower others may not have a problem. I use Plextor and Yamaha exlusively. I've used Ricoh, HP and Panasonic as well and found the Plex. and the Yam. to be more reliable.
I write CDs with Nero using Plextor 12X and a Yamaha 8X writer. I typically write AUDIO cds at 4X and buy the cheapest media possible (Gigastorage!). I have zero problems with either burner. It may take a little more time but I am sure that any of my CD's will work in almost any player.
Bottom line. Find what works for you. But when in doubt try writing slower.
Sorry for the rant
Jay
#15
rant away
i don't think the big list of rules displayed "no ranting"
so...
if you burn two different brands of cd's on the same burner at the same speed and with the same content, but one cd will work in your deck and the other won't...what would be the logical explanation ?
i don't think the big list of rules displayed "no ranting"
so...
if you burn two different brands of cd's on the same burner at the same speed and with the same content, but one cd will work in your deck and the other won't...what would be the logical explanation ?