Driving tips
#1
Driving tips
Sorry for the slightly off-topic question below. I'll start by saying I just rolled over 200 miles on my MP5 on the way to work this morning ... and I enjoy every mile more than the last!
Here's the question.... It's been a while since I've driven a stick, and I can do it pretty well for being self-educated. However, I'm looking for resources for more information. Questions I want answered are:
-Chris
Here's the question.... It's been a while since I've driven a stick, and I can do it pretty well for being self-educated. However, I'm looking for resources for more information. Questions I want answered are:
- What are the benefits of engine braking? Should I do it/should I always use the brakes? How do I overcome it when I need to drive slow, like in a parking lot? (the car seems to lurch a lot in these curcimstances).
- Should I downshift when I come to a stopsign/stoplight. I was told I need to downshift through the gears to "slow down the engine", but now that I'm wiser (read: OLDER!), it doesn't make much sense. As soon as I let my foot off the gas in 5th, engine rpm's drop to 1500. When I downshift, revs increase, so really, I'm speeding up the engine by downshifting.
-Chris
#2
Re: Driving tips
Originally posted by VaporTrails
Should I downshift when I come to a stopsign/stoplight. I was told I need to downshift through the gears to "slow down the engine", but now that I'm wiser (read: OLDER!), it doesn't make much sense. As soon as I let my foot off the gas in 5th, engine rpm's drop to 1500. When I downshift, revs increase, so really, I'm speeding up the engine by downshifting.
-Chris
Should I downshift when I come to a stopsign/stoplight. I was told I need to downshift through the gears to "slow down the engine", but now that I'm wiser (read: OLDER!), it doesn't make much sense. As soon as I let my foot off the gas in 5th, engine rpm's drop to 1500. When I downshift, revs increase, so really, I'm speeding up the engine by downshifting.
-Chris
#5
Originally posted by mito7878
...when driving in a parking lot I always use 2nd gear.
...when driving in a parking lot I always use 2nd gear.
#6
Originally posted by VaporTrails
I've got some mammoth speed-bumps to drive over at work, so I slow down to about 5mph. In 2nd, the engine is pretty dang close to stalling, but again, in 1st, the car is pretty lurchy (probably because, like me, it hates going so slow. It's kinda' like a lose-lose situation. Am I supposed to just deal with the lurching nature of driving slow, or is there something I can adjust in my technique to fix it?
I've got some mammoth speed-bumps to drive over at work, so I slow down to about 5mph. In 2nd, the engine is pretty dang close to stalling, but again, in 1st, the car is pretty lurchy (probably because, like me, it hates going so slow. It's kinda' like a lose-lose situation. Am I supposed to just deal with the lurching nature of driving slow, or is there something I can adjust in my technique to fix it?
Option 2 is preferable to option 1 as there is less wear on the clutch...just make sure you have enough speed to clear the bump!
#7
There's nothing wrong with downshifting. Keeps you in the right gear and it's not like you're downshifting and jumping up to 5,000 rpms. You just downshift so that the gear slows you down slightly and still use your brakes of course. You will eventually have to replace the clutch once well past 100,000 kms so the extra wear won't make a big difference in the end.
I also hate having to come to a full stop, so I always downshift and hope to be rolling when the light turns green.
I also hate having to come to a full stop, so I always downshift and hope to be rolling when the light turns green.
#8
The best way to downshift is of course heal/toe...of course that's a bit more advanced technique, but is pretty easy to learn and a heck of a lot of fun. Heal/toe downshifting reduces wear on the clutch because it is not having to speed up the engine/transmission to get into the lower gear, it's a seamless transition. It also prevents the lurch forward of a downshift without heal/toe. I do it all the time (almost every time I have to slow down) in my Miata, if for no other reason than to hear the exhaust when I blip the throttle. I do it occasionally in the P5...when I am driving "enthusiastically"
I was pleasantly suprised that the brake and gas pedal in the P5 are well placed for heal/toe (or in most people's cases, left side of foot, right side of foot) downshifting! Zoom Zoom!
I was pleasantly suprised that the brake and gas pedal in the P5 are well placed for heal/toe (or in most people's cases, left side of foot, right side of foot) downshifting! Zoom Zoom!
Last edited by nramsey; July-10th-2002 at 05:37 PM.
#9
As long as you are not downshifting at the PEAK speed for that particular gear....you are not going to damage your clutch....I have been using "engine breaking" for as long as I have been driving manuals...which is over 25 years...and I have NEVER EVER had a clutch wear out or need to be replaced prematurely because of it....my current truck has 125,000 miles on it and shows NO signs of premature clutch failure or excessive wear....
its all in how you do it....if you keep downshifting when the engine will rev back up to like 5500 r's...then yes....its going to make a difference...but if you are talking about just to somewhere between 3K to 4K....and you don't allow the revs to go to idle before you let the clutch back out...just like you don't do that when you are UP shifting....as long as you are not slipping the clutch...its okay....if the speed at which you are downhsifting is causeing the clutch to slip then its bad....
its all in how you do it....if you keep downshifting when the engine will rev back up to like 5500 r's...then yes....its going to make a difference...but if you are talking about just to somewhere between 3K to 4K....and you don't allow the revs to go to idle before you let the clutch back out...just like you don't do that when you are UP shifting....as long as you are not slipping the clutch...its okay....if the speed at which you are downhsifting is causeing the clutch to slip then its bad....
#10
Eat my Noodle!
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 231
From: Location: Location: Location: <<std ERR: 604 A00:24>>
Let me make this clear to you as i did attend a brief seminar at advance stick driving.
When you downshift - if you rev match while downshifting ( also known as heal/toe ) but not necessary using the heal toe, just depress clutch, rev it up to where the engine would be on the lower gear and then put it back into gear, there is virtually no wear or tear on the clutch. This not only allows the engine to slow down for you, but also when done properly, there will be no forward lurching. Then you can add brakes when you need to come to a complete stop.
The most important thing about downshifting to slow down is that you ALWAYS stay in gear. What if you go neutral and you need to move out of the way for some reason, IE: another car, oncoming drunk driver, deer, and you need to speed up to get out of the way? You are in neutral and the reaction to get back into gear will be crucial to whether or not you live. So by downshifting you will stay in gear and have the ability to just gas it when you need to.
Driving in rush hour and parking lots:
The best way to avoid jurkyness is to feather the gas to about 1000-1500 RPMS and release the clutch just a bit to get you going then depress clutch and ride the momentum while in neutral. Once you have a good decent speed like 5-10 MPH then release clutch all the way and ride in first and it'll be smooth.
Any more tips, just ask.
When you downshift - if you rev match while downshifting ( also known as heal/toe ) but not necessary using the heal toe, just depress clutch, rev it up to where the engine would be on the lower gear and then put it back into gear, there is virtually no wear or tear on the clutch. This not only allows the engine to slow down for you, but also when done properly, there will be no forward lurching. Then you can add brakes when you need to come to a complete stop.
The most important thing about downshifting to slow down is that you ALWAYS stay in gear. What if you go neutral and you need to move out of the way for some reason, IE: another car, oncoming drunk driver, deer, and you need to speed up to get out of the way? You are in neutral and the reaction to get back into gear will be crucial to whether or not you live. So by downshifting you will stay in gear and have the ability to just gas it when you need to.
Driving in rush hour and parking lots:
The best way to avoid jurkyness is to feather the gas to about 1000-1500 RPMS and release the clutch just a bit to get you going then depress clutch and ride the momentum while in neutral. Once you have a good decent speed like 5-10 MPH then release clutch all the way and ride in first and it'll be smooth.
Any more tips, just ask.
#11
Originally posted by noodles
The most important thing about downshifting to slow down is that you ALWAYS stay in gear. What if you go neutral and you need to move out of the way for some reason, IE: another car, oncoming drunk driver, deer, and you need to speed up to get out of the way? You are in neutral and the reaction to get back into gear will be crucial to whether or not you live. So by downshifting you will stay in gear and have the ability to just gas it when you need to.
The most important thing about downshifting to slow down is that you ALWAYS stay in gear. What if you go neutral and you need to move out of the way for some reason, IE: another car, oncoming drunk driver, deer, and you need to speed up to get out of the way? You are in neutral and the reaction to get back into gear will be crucial to whether or not you live. So by downshifting you will stay in gear and have the ability to just gas it when you need to.
Driving in rush hour and parking lots:
The best way to avoid jurkyness is to feather the gas to about 1000-1500 RPMS and release the clutch just a bit to get you going then depress clutch and ride the momentum while in neutral. Once you have a good decent speed like 5-10 MPH then release clutch all the way and ride in first and it'll be smooth.
Thanks for all the help.
#12
Originally posted by VaporTrails
I've got some mammoth speed-bumps to drive over at work, so I slow down to about 5mph. In 2nd, the engine is pretty dang close to stalling, but again, in 1st, the car is pretty lurchy (probably because, like me, it hates going so slow). It's kinda' like a lose-lose situation. Am I supposed to just deal with the lurching nature of driving slow, or is there something I can adjust in my technique to fix it?
I've got some mammoth speed-bumps to drive over at work, so I slow down to about 5mph. In 2nd, the engine is pretty dang close to stalling, but again, in 1st, the car is pretty lurchy (probably because, like me, it hates going so slow). It's kinda' like a lose-lose situation. Am I supposed to just deal with the lurching nature of driving slow, or is there something I can adjust in my technique to fix it?
#13
Originally posted by mito7878
Why not just come to a complete stop at the bumps and then accelerate over them?
Why not just come to a complete stop at the bumps and then accelerate over them?
#14
Originally posted by mito7878
IMO placing it in Nuetral and using the brakes is you best bet.
IMO placing it in Nuetral and using the brakes is you best bet.
The reason that coasting is illegal is exactly how noodles says "It greatly diminishes ones ability to handle their automobile in a situation of crisis.
When you are slowing down your car, there are many times when you don't actually come to a complete stop. You slow down because someone pulls out in front of you, but eventually speeds up; or you slow down for a traffic light that turns green before you stop. If you are downshifting/engine braking when this occurs, you just have to resume accelerating in the gear you are in and then upshift like normal. If you are coasting, then you suddenly have to pick a gear from Nuetral that appropriately matches your speed. I've been with drivers who have both stalled their cars and revved them way too high trying to do this.
Do you put your automatic transmission in neutral before you slow down. Hell No!!! So *everybody* leaves their automatic in gear when they stop.
I'd also like to agree with Sir Nuke. I had a 1994 Toyota pickup, a daily driver with 128,000 miles on it. I always downshifted when stopping, and not only did I not have to replace my brakes. I never replaced the clutch either.
I think I've said this before, but next time you see an 18-wheeler on the street, pay attention to when he has to stop. I guarantee that you'll here that sucker engine braking like made.
Now I have to re-read this and make sure I didn't misspell braking. No one wants to have engine breaking... ugh
Last edited by Brubeck; July-11th-2002 at 12:46 PM.