Driving tips
#16
Eat my Noodle!
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 231
From: Location: Location: Location: <<std ERR: 604 A00:24>>
Originally posted by VaporTrails
Thanks for the tip, noodles (you too, mazdanew). This bit of info above is what'll keep me downshifting. 99.9% of the time it'll just be a waste of a micron of material on my clutch, but that time when I need to be in gear, I'll be damn glad it is.
I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Had to to drive the crummy GrandAm today because of a trip to town right around 5pm rush hour. I don't want that kind of stop-n-go strain on the car just yet - she's still gettin' warmed up! (only 250 miles so far...)
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for the tip, noodles (you too, mazdanew). This bit of info above is what'll keep me downshifting. 99.9% of the time it'll just be a waste of a micron of material on my clutch, but that time when I need to be in gear, I'll be damn glad it is.
I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Had to to drive the crummy GrandAm today because of a trip to town right around 5pm rush hour. I don't want that kind of stop-n-go strain on the car just yet - she's still gettin' warmed up! (only 250 miles so far...)
Thanks for all the help.
Regarding going slow at 5 MPH, just do what i told you to do in parking lots about going slow, except rev it a lil higher (~2000rpm) , clutch in a bit on 2nd gear and release and ride over bumps with momentum. That way you don't really go into gear at that slow speed, but engage it just for a bit and it won't feel like it's going to stall because you've rev'ed the engine prior to clutch engaging. Hope this clears it up for you a bit more.
Also Brubeck reinforces my point about downshifting. So just take your time and learn to downshift, it'll be jerky at first, but you'll get the hang of it later. I'd suggest practicing from 4th to 3rd as that's usually the easiest, then from 5th to 4th then from 3rd to 2nd.
Anyways good luck!
Last edited by noodles; July-11th-2002 at 01:20 PM.
#17
Originally posted by Brubeck
I would like to point out that this is considered "coasting" and is illegal in most states. Check you states operator's manual. This is true also for automatics (they have neutral too).
The reason that coasting is illegal is exactly how noodles says "It greatly diminishes ones ability to handle their automobile in a situation of crisis.
I would like to point out that this is considered "coasting" and is illegal in most states. Check you states operator's manual. This is true also for automatics (they have neutral too).
The reason that coasting is illegal is exactly how noodles says "It greatly diminishes ones ability to handle their automobile in a situation of crisis.
But you're right, it's must safer to stay in gear as much as possible, when possible.
One more thing is when travelling on long long downhills, if you don't downshift and use engine braking, u'll probably burn out your brake pads.
#18
My rule of thumb for downshifting is
If I am coming to a red light and I have to stop quickly, I put it in
neutral and use the brakes.
If there is lots of time to stop at the light I will downshift,
picking the right rpm when I downshift so I won;t rev to high.
And ALways pay attention to traffic ahead of you. ahead of you
especially at intersections
If I am coming to a red light and I have to stop quickly, I put it in
neutral and use the brakes.
If there is lots of time to stop at the light I will downshift,
picking the right rpm when I downshift so I won;t rev to high.
And ALways pay attention to traffic ahead of you. ahead of you
especially at intersections
#19
I usually follow through the gears when I'm slowing down, clutch to the floor. If I have to make an emergency stop, or need the engine braking (which is why you leave an automatic in gear) I downshift through the gears. You won't really cause any harm to your engine and transmission by doing this and if traffic ahead of you starts moving you can let out the clutch and be on your way.
#20
If done correctly engine braking will add no more wear and tear to your engine than accelerating. Match your revs and you'll be ok. When I was training drivers for Laidlaw I wouldn't pass anyone who wouldn't downshift. Many truck drivers have been killed riding their brakes down long hills and having them fade to nothing.
Don
Don
#21
Originally posted by don668
When I was training drivers for Laidlaw I wouldn't pass anyone who wouldn't downshift. Many truck drivers have been killed riding their brakes down long hills and having them fade to nothing.
When I was training drivers for Laidlaw I wouldn't pass anyone who wouldn't downshift. Many truck drivers have been killed riding their brakes down long hills and having them fade to nothing.
Yeah, the brakes will fade too much if you only use them to slow down.
Another thing, when you're downshifting, go from whatever gear you're in down to the next one, but don't downshift into first gear. I always downshift down to the second gear and then put it in neutral from there.
As for the speed bumps, as noodles said, put your car in 2nd gear and play around with the clutch almost all the way in and light gas to give it some momentum then push the clutch back in and let go of gas, slow down for the next speed bump with the clutch still in, and then light gas again with letting the clutch go a bit, etc.
Practice is the most important thing. Took me forever to get a decent hang of standard.
#23
Heel/Toe
Just a little info on the heel and toe technique.
Heel and toe downshifting is taught in racing schools for the following reasons...
1. Most race cars short of indy cars or F1 have non-synchronized transmissions, so in order for the gears to mesh properly on the downshift, you need to double-clutch.
2. You are normally downshifting as you approach a turn. You also want to accelerate until the last possible moment as you approach the turn and then go to full braking (called threshold braking). If you have to take your foot off the brake to blip the throttle, then you have to brake sooner, losing time. So, heel-and-toe allows you to blip the throttle for the downshift while continuing to apply max braking.
3. The purpose of the downshift is to be in the proper gear when you are ready to apply power in the middle of the turn. Blipping the throttle also ensures that the car remains balanced as you downshift to the lower gear. If you just downshift and let the clutch out, weight is transferred to the front tires and you get trailing throttle oversteer.
All of this has little to do with the poster's original question, but thought I would throw it out.
I can't heel-and-toe my P5 since I got it for the wife with a (yucchh) automatic. However, I do it in my miata all the time, just to stay in practice.
Heel and toe downshifting is taught in racing schools for the following reasons...
1. Most race cars short of indy cars or F1 have non-synchronized transmissions, so in order for the gears to mesh properly on the downshift, you need to double-clutch.
2. You are normally downshifting as you approach a turn. You also want to accelerate until the last possible moment as you approach the turn and then go to full braking (called threshold braking). If you have to take your foot off the brake to blip the throttle, then you have to brake sooner, losing time. So, heel-and-toe allows you to blip the throttle for the downshift while continuing to apply max braking.
3. The purpose of the downshift is to be in the proper gear when you are ready to apply power in the middle of the turn. Blipping the throttle also ensures that the car remains balanced as you downshift to the lower gear. If you just downshift and let the clutch out, weight is transferred to the front tires and you get trailing throttle oversteer.
All of this has little to do with the poster's original question, but thought I would throw it out.
I can't heel-and-toe my P5 since I got it for the wife with a (yucchh) automatic. However, I do it in my miata all the time, just to stay in practice.
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