Engine Rattle when Cold - 2001 ES 2L and P5
#46
I recorded a sound clip and converted it to an mp3 file so everyone should be able to play it. I recorded it this morning, it was about 30 Degrees Far. and I popped the hood and reved the engine to about 3000rpms 4 or 5 times. Here is a link, let me know if it does not work for anyone.
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/dustob...dir=/Car+Stuff
Dustin
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/dustob...dir=/Car+Stuff
Dustin
#47
That's the one!! That's what I heard on the brand new P5 I test drove right at 2700 rpm. I've heard lifter rattle before and that does not sounds like it. That sounds like a metallic rattle from something that is slightly touching and then when the car warms up, whatever it is that is rattling or whatever it is touching warms up and expands and does not rattle anymore.
#51
This is the exact sound I have on my P5. I'm going to go to the dealer tomorrow to get on the list for the ECU update. Thanks for taking the time to record this; you're pretty hardcore
Cheers,
Eric
Cheers,
Eric
#52
Anytime, I plan on going to my dealer and when they tell me they don't hear anything i am going to play that sound clip which I will burn onto a cd. Then we will be in the hands of mazda, I just hope the start working on a fix.
#53
That's the sound I have in my car. Maybe it the fewer bolts in the car that causes that noise! Ha Ha The radio has no freekin screws. Just like a snap together model's had a kids. Yahoo Mazda, amazing what kind of crap we learn from FORD.
#54
.
I've got a question. Has anyone disconnected the vacuum line going to the VCTS actuator and see if the problem goes away? Or has anyone locked the VCTS actuator in an open position to see if the problem goes away? I'll post my results in the morning....
#56
.
Well I disconnected the vacuum line and the problem is gone. I also opened the VCTS plates fully and the problem is still gone. I guess I proved myself wrong on this one. It sounded so much like a piston slap I would have bet on it. But I still don't see them fixing it with programming. If this is a system that they want to function at lower RPM to improve A/F mix, turning it off to kill the noise will probably also kill the ULEV status. The actuator will activate with very little vacuum. About 5 in/hg. My gauge isn't really that accurate anymore. What it seems like is that at part throttle accelleration through the suspected RPM range, there is enough vacuum on the VCTS actuator to not open but allow the turbulent airflow through the intake make the plates themselves rattle on the seat. A actuator with a slightly heavier spring may help. As far as engine temp having to be below 149F, that wasn't entirely true. With my scanner connected, the problem went away when the ECT temp reached 122F. In the meantime, I'm just going to disconnect the VCTS solenoid until they get a fix. Hey. At least it's quiet now...
#60
For those with the engine rattle when cold - wondering what viscosity oil do you use? I use 10W30 in the warmer months and 5W30 in the cold months. I work nights and our building is less than a block away from the freeway on ramp, so I'm cruising at 70-75 mph and 3300 rpm in just over a minute after starting the car. No rattle here.