Engine/ Tranny swap...
#1
Engine/ Tranny swap...
can anyone tell me how hard/cost would it be to swap my 1.8 DOHC outta my 99 Touring Edition with a Mazda 13B engine with an RWD or AWD tranny??? i'm curious...
#3
I think we're going to officially change the name of this webforum from www.protegeclub.com to www.DO_YOUR_OWN_SEARCH.com.
It migjt attract more people who know how to find and manipulate the "search" button.
It migjt attract more people who know how to find and manipulate the "search" button.
#4
are you kidding me? you're saying you want to sway a rotary motor into a protege...never in a katrillion years. the worst part is that you think it's possible to convert the car to awd/rwd...when pigs fly my friend, it may be possible, but mazda doesnt manufacte a driveshaft/drivetrain that is short enough for a protege.
#5
actually there are AWD versions of the Protege(Familia) in Japan...you would have to fabricate the transmission tunnel....a 13B swap is pretty costly i would imagine...there actually have been some 323 guys that did it with an adapter plate and custom bell housing and made a 13B FWD....why though?? if you got some money to spend, build the bottom end and tranny and turbo the hell out of it!!!
#9
there was a big thing back a couple of months ago, about some guy saying he wants to do it,
there are a bunch of ideas in there and thing you would have to overcome
but theres no point tho,
like i know you can push out likecrazy horsepower outa a rotary, but either way just build up the 1.8L.... they aren't bad engines, and check out that thread about the 1.8L in taiwan (its in the photos section)
hes pushing 300ps at about 1 bar of boost (about 300hp at about 14.7psi)
so just build the motor you got
there are a bunch of ideas in there and thing you would have to overcome
but theres no point tho,
like i know you can push out likecrazy horsepower outa a rotary, but either way just build up the 1.8L.... they aren't bad engines, and check out that thread about the 1.8L in taiwan (its in the photos section)
hes pushing 300ps at about 1 bar of boost (about 300hp at about 14.7psi)
so just build the motor you got
#11
and more so than piston engines, high horsepower rotaries have serious reliability problems...the FD was a nightmare for Mazda..they didnt profit at all, too many warranty repairs. Guys were having to get engines replaced at 10,000 miles...A lot of people dont even realize you have to keep adding oil to rotaries....they have sprayers to keep the apex seals wet with oil
#13
the "H" tranny from what i have researched will bolt to the 13B. the "H" is found on the F2T engine(88-92mx6gt). now with that said. this engine will have to be mounted in your car with custom mounts. $$$ that costs money and needs to be designed by a real engineer(if in Canada, a guy with an iron ring).
now lets just say, that you managed to get the custom tranny mount, engine mout, and the 2 mounts to the crossmember done for an attainable price. you still have to get custom axles. the axles out of your "F" tranny will not work with the axles out of a "H". Actually odds are you have altered the driveshaft geometry. so that is one more nail in the coffin; you need custom axles.
recap: custom mounts, custom axles, existing tranny. about 2 years ago i tried to drop the F2T into my little first gen. BIG mistake. after unloading $900(cheap) to get the engine mounted. i was looking at $1200 for a set of axles. mind you could get some cheaper but i was not about to buy a cheap $250 per axle and replace the axles 3 times.
from a practial point of view this is not a good idea. but then again who wants to be practical? At the end of the Day it is your money and i suggest you do what you want with it. Do realize that you will be "poineering" something so the "How do i fix this _insert swap specfic(sp) question_" will not get you the answer.
Ahh the joys and woes of being a poineer.
now lets just say, that you managed to get the custom tranny mount, engine mout, and the 2 mounts to the crossmember done for an attainable price. you still have to get custom axles. the axles out of your "F" tranny will not work with the axles out of a "H". Actually odds are you have altered the driveshaft geometry. so that is one more nail in the coffin; you need custom axles.
recap: custom mounts, custom axles, existing tranny. about 2 years ago i tried to drop the F2T into my little first gen. BIG mistake. after unloading $900(cheap) to get the engine mounted. i was looking at $1200 for a set of axles. mind you could get some cheaper but i was not about to buy a cheap $250 per axle and replace the axles 3 times.
from a practial point of view this is not a good idea. but then again who wants to be practical? At the end of the Day it is your money and i suggest you do what you want with it. Do realize that you will be "poineering" something so the "How do i fix this _insert swap specfic(sp) question_" will not get you the answer.
Ahh the joys and woes of being a poineer.
#15
Originally posted by macdaddyslomo
and more so than piston engines, high horsepower rotaries have serious reliability problems...the FD was a nightmare for Mazda..they didnt profit at all, too many warranty repairs. Guys were having to get engines replaced at 10,000 miles...A lot of people dont even realize you have to keep adding oil to rotaries....they have sprayers to keep the apex seals wet with oil
and more so than piston engines, high horsepower rotaries have serious reliability problems...the FD was a nightmare for Mazda..they didnt profit at all, too many warranty repairs. Guys were having to get engines replaced at 10,000 miles...A lot of people dont even realize you have to keep adding oil to rotaries....they have sprayers to keep the apex seals wet with oil
with rotaries you need alot of maintenance...... with proper maintenance people have gotten upto 150,000 miles of the 13B-REW (the FD engine)
also alot of people had to get the FD warrantied because of the fact that the ECU in the FD didn't take well too much to breathing mods.....
alot of people did a full exhaust and intake.... and the enigne would lean out and start to detonate.... you have to go full standalone, and get it properly tuned.... and when you have that done then you start making alot more power and its more reliable....
you also gotta remember you cannot get a brand new 13B-REW anymore.... you have to piece it together..... so alot of the parts people use are used....
but the reliability problems people liek to throw onto rotaries ain't really true....
they are like having an exotic sports car... whoever has one of those keeps them maintained.... and all that, and don't drive them every single day, well most don't..... and the rotary is the same as that.... except at like a tenth of the price..... cuz of the price people don't maintain them cuz they think its not like crazily ex[ensive and it should be okay..... but its not true, they need to be well maintained....
and you have to make sure you don't detonate.... i think one of the best things you could do for that, in rotaries, would be water injection
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joerc240sx
1st gen/323/GLC Engine and Drivetrain
1
September-24th-2003 09:35 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)