Everytime I get gas my p5 will not start
March-16th-2003 | 12:40 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Protege Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 141
From: South Carolina
Everytime I get gas my p5 will not start
Well, here is the situation. I just got back from my first road trip in my p5. The week before I left I got the mazdaspeed axle-back muffler and Injen CAI both installed by the dealer. Now, everytime I get gas, it doesnt matter what brand or grade, my p5 will not start. I have to sit there and pump the gas pedal to get it started and keep reving it once its started just to keep it from stalling. It does not do this anytime except after I fill up with gas. And it does it everytime I fill up with gas. Does anyone have any sugestions?
March-16th-2003 | 02:45 AM
#2
little asian member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 572
From: Tucson, AZ
perhaps you have a shot spark plug? or a clogged fuel line? dirty fuel filter? your engine might also be flooded. check the manual for a remedy to this. another thing you can check is to see if the gas content is more than 10% alcohol. if it is, that might also be a problem. good luck and if all else fails, call up your dealer.
March-16th-2003 | 03:05 AM
#3
Use this to install stuff
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,069
From: State College, PA
could be a combo of ECU problems and the fuel pump pressurizing the injection system too. Check all the above mentioned items and try turning the key to on and leaving it there for a few seconds after you fill up the tank. After the pump fully pressurizes the system turn over the engine. It might help, it might not. I had a similar problem whent the engine was newer and cold in my P5. If I would just completely crank the engine on cold day, it would start briefly and immediately stall. I would then leave the key at "on" for a second or so and try again. it would fire right up...
March-16th-2003 | 03:41 AM
#4
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,667
From: Centennial, Colorado
erm.. EFI engine flooded? pumping the gas before the car is on? ok... riiight. i'm sorry, take a look at what you're saying. go open the butterfly.. do you see any fuel going into your engine while the car is off? k... when you step on the gas pedal.. thats all its doing, opening the butterfly. there is no fuel delivery. make sure your plugs and wires arent shot first, then, take a minute to make sure your fuel pressure regulator has the hose hooked up to it (i've been at the dealerships, and theyve seen this before where the fpr isnt hooked up [the hose])
March-16th-2003 | 02:36 PM
#5
Master of All Things :{D
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,118
From: southeast texas, near houston
and if any of the obvious things above don't fix your problem....and seeing as how your dealer just did some work on your car....take it back to them....and have THEM fix it.
and since you KNOW they have a gas pump at the dealer...or at least one near by...and since your car does this EVERY time its filled up...seems to me it will be easy to demonstrate to the service manager your problem. even if you need to make an appointment....pick him up and run down to the nearest gas station and fill up your car and SHOW him what its doing.
and since you KNOW they have a gas pump at the dealer...or at least one near by...and since your car does this EVERY time its filled up...seems to me it will be easy to demonstrate to the service manager your problem. even if you need to make an appointment....pick him up and run down to the nearest gas station and fill up your car and SHOW him what its doing.
March-16th-2003 | 06:16 PM
#6
little asian member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 572
From: Tucson, AZ
mike, that's what i thought... injected engines can't get flooded... but in the manual on page 7-15 (2002 manual), it says:
"if the engine fails to start, it may be flooded (excessive fuel in the engine).
Follow this procedure:
1. Depress the accelerator all the way and hold it there.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the START position and hold it there-- for up to 10 seconds. If the engine starts, release the key and accelerator immediately because the engine will suddenly rev up.
3. If the engine fails to start, crank it without using the accelerator--for up to 10 seconds."
and this is where i got the idea that his engine MIGHT be flooded.
"if the engine fails to start, it may be flooded (excessive fuel in the engine).
Follow this procedure:
1. Depress the accelerator all the way and hold it there.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the START position and hold it there-- for up to 10 seconds. If the engine starts, release the key and accelerator immediately because the engine will suddenly rev up.
3. If the engine fails to start, crank it without using the accelerator--for up to 10 seconds."
and this is where i got the idea that his engine MIGHT be flooded.
Last edited by tonkabui; March-16th-2003 at 06:19 PM.
March-16th-2003 | 09:18 PM
#7
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,122
From: Dallas, Texas
OK, here's my complex theory...
The purge solenoid valve for the evaporative emissions system is located on the intake. During the intake installation, a n00b service tech at the dealer either broke the purge solenoid valve, or in a true fit of idiocy, mistakenly hooked up the vacuum line from the evap emissions overflow catch tank directly to the purge solenoid valve outlet fitting on the throttle body.
Here's what I think is going on: when you fill up with gas, you remove the gas cap and release the negative pressure in the gas tank, then stir up a bunch of gas vapors when you pour in more fuel. When you restart the car, the purge solenoid valve is *supposed* to be closed, then it's supposed to gradually open and repressurize the evap emissions system. However, it is stuck open or bypassed, and when you try to start the car, the engine vacuum sucks all the extra gas vapor directly through the evap emissions system and into the intake all at once, flooding the engine. The problem does not reoccur afterwards because your evap emission system is new and in good condition, and it's not losing pressure, so you don't suck that extra vapor into the intake unless the gas cap has been removed since the last time the car was started.
Sounds like a good theory to me. Hey, it could happen!
However, the bottom line is this- I think the dealership screwed up when they installed your intake. THEY need to fix it.
The purge solenoid valve for the evaporative emissions system is located on the intake. During the intake installation, a n00b service tech at the dealer either broke the purge solenoid valve, or in a true fit of idiocy, mistakenly hooked up the vacuum line from the evap emissions overflow catch tank directly to the purge solenoid valve outlet fitting on the throttle body.
Here's what I think is going on: when you fill up with gas, you remove the gas cap and release the negative pressure in the gas tank, then stir up a bunch of gas vapors when you pour in more fuel. When you restart the car, the purge solenoid valve is *supposed* to be closed, then it's supposed to gradually open and repressurize the evap emissions system. However, it is stuck open or bypassed, and when you try to start the car, the engine vacuum sucks all the extra gas vapor directly through the evap emissions system and into the intake all at once, flooding the engine. The problem does not reoccur afterwards because your evap emission system is new and in good condition, and it's not losing pressure, so you don't suck that extra vapor into the intake unless the gas cap has been removed since the last time the car was started.
Sounds like a good theory to me. Hey, it could happen!
However, the bottom line is this- I think the dealership screwed up when they installed your intake. THEY need to fix it.
March-17th-2003 | 12:14 AM
#10
Protege Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 200
From: Winter Park, Fl.
Originally posted by carguycw
OK, here's my complex theory...
The purge solenoid valve for the evaporative emissions system is located on the intake. During the intake installation, a n00b service tech at the dealer either broke the purge solenoid valve, or in a true fit of idiocy, mistakenly hooked up the vacuum line from the evap emissions overflow catch tank directly to the purge solenoid valve outlet fitting on the throttle body.
Here's what I think is going on: when you fill up with gas, you remove the gas cap and release the negative pressure in the gas tank, then stir up a bunch of gas vapors when you pour in more fuel. When you restart the car, the purge solenoid valve is *supposed* to be closed, then it's supposed to gradually open and repressurize the evap emissions system. However, it is stuck open or bypassed, and when you try to start the car, the engine vacuum sucks all the extra gas vapor directly through the evap emissions system and into the intake all at once, flooding the engine. The problem does not reoccur afterwards because your evap emission system is new and in good condition, and it's not losing pressure, so you don't suck that extra vapor into the intake unless the gas cap has been removed since the last time the car was started.
Sounds like a good theory to me. Hey, it could happen! However, the bottom line is this- I think the dealership screwed up when they installed your intake. THEY need to fix it.
OK, here's my complex theory...
The purge solenoid valve for the evaporative emissions system is located on the intake. During the intake installation, a n00b service tech at the dealer either broke the purge solenoid valve, or in a true fit of idiocy, mistakenly hooked up the vacuum line from the evap emissions overflow catch tank directly to the purge solenoid valve outlet fitting on the throttle body.
Here's what I think is going on: when you fill up with gas, you remove the gas cap and release the negative pressure in the gas tank, then stir up a bunch of gas vapors when you pour in more fuel. When you restart the car, the purge solenoid valve is *supposed* to be closed, then it's supposed to gradually open and repressurize the evap emissions system. However, it is stuck open or bypassed, and when you try to start the car, the engine vacuum sucks all the extra gas vapor directly through the evap emissions system and into the intake all at once, flooding the engine. The problem does not reoccur afterwards because your evap emission system is new and in good condition, and it's not losing pressure, so you don't suck that extra vapor into the intake unless the gas cap has been removed since the last time the car was started.
Sounds like a good theory to me. Hey, it could happen!
However, the bottom line is this- I think the dealership screwed up when they installed your intake. THEY need to fix it.
But the best advice of course is to take it back to the dealer, and don't let them give you any gruff.
March-17th-2003 | 02:12 AM
#11
Thread Starter
Protege Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 141
From: South Carolina
Originally posted by carguycw
OK, here's my complex theory...
The purge solenoid valve for the evaporative emissions system is located on the intake. During the intake installation, a n00b service tech at the dealer either broke the purge solenoid valve, or in a true fit of idiocy, mistakenly hooked up the vacuum line from the evap emissions overflow catch tank directly to the purge solenoid valve outlet fitting on the throttle body.
Here's what I think is going on: when you fill up with gas, you remove the gas cap and release the negative pressure in the gas tank, then stir up a bunch of gas vapors when you pour in more fuel. When you restart the car, the purge solenoid valve is *supposed* to be closed, then it's supposed to gradually open and repressurize the evap emissions system. However, it is stuck open or bypassed, and when you try to start the car, the engine vacuum sucks all the extra gas vapor directly through the evap emissions system and into the intake all at once, flooding the engine. The problem does not reoccur afterwards because your evap emission system is new and in good condition, and it's not losing pressure, so you don't suck that extra vapor into the intake unless the gas cap has been removed since the last time the car was started.
Sounds like a good theory to me. Hey, it could happen! However, the bottom line is this- I think the dealership screwed up when they installed your intake. THEY need to fix it.
OK, here's my complex theory...
The purge solenoid valve for the evaporative emissions system is located on the intake. During the intake installation, a n00b service tech at the dealer either broke the purge solenoid valve, or in a true fit of idiocy, mistakenly hooked up the vacuum line from the evap emissions overflow catch tank directly to the purge solenoid valve outlet fitting on the throttle body.
Here's what I think is going on: when you fill up with gas, you remove the gas cap and release the negative pressure in the gas tank, then stir up a bunch of gas vapors when you pour in more fuel. When you restart the car, the purge solenoid valve is *supposed* to be closed, then it's supposed to gradually open and repressurize the evap emissions system. However, it is stuck open or bypassed, and when you try to start the car, the engine vacuum sucks all the extra gas vapor directly through the evap emissions system and into the intake all at once, flooding the engine. The problem does not reoccur afterwards because your evap emission system is new and in good condition, and it's not losing pressure, so you don't suck that extra vapor into the intake unless the gas cap has been removed since the last time the car was started.
Sounds like a good theory to me. Hey, it could happen!
However, the bottom line is this- I think the dealership screwed up when they installed your intake. THEY need to fix it.
Thank you, thank you
The dealership told me they broke the purge solenoid valve during installation of the intake. They told me they fixed it, but obviously not. I do not know anything about cars, I am glad I found this forum because you guys are so much help.
March-17th-2003 | 06:58 AM
#12
Protege Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 147
From: Berea/Lexington, KY
Originally posted by pro00
let the dealer deal with the problem
it is still under warranty, and they installed it
too, so it should be under warranty..
Isn't that right, any body correct me if I am wrong please
thanks!
let the dealer deal with the problem
it is still under warranty, and they installed it
too, so it should be under warranty..
Isn't that right, any body correct me if I am wrong please
thanks!
March-17th-2003 | 09:38 AM
#14
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,122
From: Dallas, Texas
Originally posted by KYREDP5
The part is under warranty only if it is a Mazda OEM part installed by a Mazda Tech.
The part is under warranty only if it is a Mazda OEM part installed by a Mazda Tech.
Last edited by carguycw; March-17th-2003 at 09:40 AM.
March-17th-2003 | 07:08 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Protege Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 141
From: South Carolina
Originally posted by carguycw
No, not quite. You're right that it must be a Mazda OEM part, but it's illegal to void a warranty claim because a part wasn't installed by a dealer unless they can prove that improper installation caused the part to fail. A service manager at my dealer told me this.
No, not quite. You're right that it must be a Mazda OEM part, but it's illegal to void a warranty claim because a part wasn't installed by a dealer unless they can prove that improper installation caused the part to fail. A service manager at my dealer told me this.