Can someone kindly point me in the direction of the correct oil filter tool to remove and install new oil filter on P5.

Our what you guys are using to do this job.

I've had no luck finding a filter socket in the correct size.

 

it shouldn't be that hard to find....I got mine at K-mart and was all of $3

 

Just use your hands.

 

Buy a stock filter from mazda and bring it to kmart. Then pick and chose the correct oil filter tool.

This is probably the easiest why to find out.

Later

 

I use the OEM Mazda filter with Mobil1 10W30.

went to several places to find the filter tool...pretty much all over Southern California...ended up finding the correct filter tool (in stock) at Pep Boys for $4.99.

However, when I did change my oil for the first time at 2200 miles, my filter came off easily...unlike most people who have had difficulty with removing their oil filter for the first time, as the car came from the factory.

I doubt I'll use the tool again. oh well.

 

I went to Sears and bought a pair of filter pliers for 10 bucks. It looks like a long crab claw or something. It is great for reaching up into the catacombs of our engine bay to grab the filter. Chews the old filter up a bit, but that doesn't matter

 

As to hand tighten, the OEM filter box has the following printed on the top flap "tighten one and 1/6 turns after gasket contacts engne surface". Probably overkill, but, with a filter tool, not a problem to follow these instructions.

Here's a great website about oil: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

 

I used a pair of channel lock pliers to get my OEM filter off. They worked great, but may require some finaggling to get wedged in there. I've always had the best results with Mobil 1 filters, too, so I replacced the OEM filter with a M1 (as well as M1 oil).

K

 

I have a filter "claw" that attaches to a 3/4 drive socket wrench. It works for the other car's filter. Should it work with the P5 or is it a pain to even get up there? I have to do our first oil change this week.

 

hands shouls always be enough to take it off, otherwise it has been put on too tight!!

 

Note that the Fram filters (if you are using them) have that Sur-Grip rubber crud on them, and some filter wrenches (exact fit type that fit on the end of socket wrenches) will not work. BTW, I would avoid FRAM if I were you as they are not the best quality. Nippon (OEM Mazda), Wix, or Purolator filters seem to be a better bet. There is more info on this inside of the forum if you are curious about filter choices. In addition to how the wrench fits on the filter, another important consideration when picking up a filter wrench (and there are many, from adapters that fit on the end of socket wrenches to strap wrenches) is that there is not a lot of space to manuever around below the intake, where the filter is located. I am one of those people that almost always change my own oil, and thus the filter rarely gets put on too tight. But in the rare instance when I've had to use a wrench to get it off, I've had better luck using the type that snaps on to a socket wrench. With the proper extensions handy, it's cake.

 

I had to use a Fram for the change today. I had to as I forgot to pick up some OEM filters last time we were near the dealer. We live about 1+ hours away from three different dealers. We are in the sticks, literally.

I see why they say to take it to the dealer for oil changes. It is purely for liability over people burning their arms on the exhaust pipe/manifold.

I was also glad that I was stacking firewood today. I found some boards with which to make some "hillbilly ramps". I have some steel ones but hate them. I made stepped ramps with the boards that gave about 2 to 3 inches of lift. Perfectly easy and safe.

 

why would you burn your arm on the exhaust changing a filter????????? It's on the back of the engine and you can reach it from above....

 

Maybe on a 1.8L but not on a 2.0. The only way to access the filter on the 2.0 is from the bottom. While reaching one's arm is less than 1" from the exhaust.

 

Wrong. All eight times I have changed the oil on my car, I have removed the filter from the top. I just unfasten the diagphram on the passenger side of the engine bay adjacent to the firewall (2 10mm nuts), set it on top of the strut bar, and fit my arm down in there below the intake manifold. The only bitch thing about changing the oil on my car is now that I've lowered it, I have to drive it up on to a pair of two by fours in order to fit the drain pan underneath. But it is almost always an easy 15 minute job. Try this next time.