Going back to rattle problem. I have it on mine too, but it's at very narrow range-only at 2700 rpm and just for fraction of second.
Anyway, my friend had problem with valvetrain rattle after he installed cams(Sr20de). He retorgued them and rattle was gone.
I read about VITC system contributing to rattle, but why it doesn't rattle at 2500 rpm on my car?And why some people have rattle and some don't? I doubt that ECU programming can have such a wide variance, but sake drinking unionized japanese autoworker can-I remember reversed rear caliper bolts on my PR5
What if due to incorrect torgue there's some kind of resonance at 2700 rpm?
Anybody got manual for 3 rd gen and willing to supply torgue specs for both cams-those bolts which hold brakets around cam to cylinder head and cam sproket to cam bolt. I might try to take a stab at it when it gets warmer, unless Mazda comes up with solution.
Any other ideas, comments?
Alex

 

from the workshop manual page 01-10A-14:

cylinder head bolts: 17.2-22.0 N.m

camshaft bolts: 11.3-14.2 N.m

camshaft pulley bolts: 50-60 N.m

i think those are the right numbers? could be looking at the wrong thing though...

 

Thanks a lot!

 

My rear (driver side) bolts on the strut (bottom) were in backwards and we had to take the caliper off to remove the strut and install new springs. It may need to be turqued but I would hope that Mazda could figure that out. I wouldn't wait til it gets warm if at all possible because the rattle will be gone with the warm temps as this only happens in the cold.

 

I have my PR5 since June and I thought that it's a heatshield at first. It happens with cold engine-which is "below normal operating temperature", it doesn't have to be below 0.
Were both rear calipers pain or just one? My left side was OK.
And no, I am not saying that engine rattle is due to wrong torgue on rear caliper bolts, it's just reference to Mazda mistake.
Alex

 

my bolts were wrong on just one side. They are correct now though. Not going through that **** again.