On the contrary, I think it could be a challenging and rewarding way to learn about automobile mechanics. Yes, there will be challenges. And, yes, he may get stuck. Probably even will break a few things, strip out a bolt or two. But broken bits can be replaced, friends and a little brainstorming can sort out challenges, and if he stays committed to the project, he can finish it. I still remember when I rebuilt my first engine. Like most things in life, the hardest part of doing it is getting the cojones to go at it. He has already got the ***** to take it on.

Some bits of advice:
1) Anything you take out of the engine ought to be treated with great care, and wrapped in rags to prevent scratches. I might add, keep it all in order in a cool dry place. This includes cams, your crank, valves, and sealing surfaces (such as the bottom side of the cylinder head). Be careful with screw drivers, and other sharp objects when handling/ removing these items. Treat everything as if it was made out of fine china, not steel, and she will go back together without additional issues.
2) Put things back together in the order that you took them out. In other words, put the #3 exhaust valve back into the #3 exhaust valve location. If you use ziplock baggies marked with a permanent pen, it will help you remember where all of the nuts and bolts go, and help you keep them from getting lost.
3) Torque everything to the specification listed in the shop manual, in the tightening pattern specified, and using the proper (specified) thread locker. I cannot stress this enough. I have seen a lot of issues in my time that result from things not being properly torqued.
4) Replace gaskets with a quality set, and check to make sure sealing surfaces are flat and free of scratches.
5) Be prepared to make a lot of runs to the hardware store for tools you do not yet have. After rebuilding a couple of motorcycles, I had gear pullers, clamps, a zillion extensions, etc. The collection just kept growing. And, you'll find that you will need stuff at like two in the morning, when all of the stores are closed.
5) If you get in a jam, let us know. We are here to help.

Good luck, man.

 

order a rebuild kit, and while your at it some ARP head studs. They are much tougher than OEM and still pretty cheap...also get a cylinder hone, its a great tool to have when doing a rebuild. ANd yes you'll need a lift, but you can rent one cheap or I've seen them as cheap as $150 if you want to own one

 

Hell, if my car didnt work I'd be right with you. If you know how an engine works than what better way to get the hands-on experience for mechanics and repair than to take apart the whole engine. I've sometimes considered buying a scrapped car and making a project off it.
But definatly make sure you have a roll of masking tape, bags, and a permanent marker as mentioned, it will make things a lot easier!

Good luck with it.

 

not really.

i was hoping i would learn as i go, and some friends i know (know a little) could lend a hand

i've also got a family friend (machanic for 14 years) who lives by, i can always ask for some info.. and finnaly this sight...

 

i have a ton of zipplock bags already carrying some nuts and bolts, i feal like im gonna be outside with it past 12 at night... im happy as hell that i have the time now to do this, and some friends that can help

i also use duct tape to seal off hoses and cover open wires..

"order a rebuild kit, and while your at it some ARP head studs"

i havn't thought about buying one untill you told me... where would rebuild kits usually be found? how much do they run?

thank you very much for the help!!!!!!

 

try www.cheapmazdaparts.com

look for a complete overhaul gasket set and complete bearing set

probably run you like $200 total...but that does not include rebuilding the head itself....you will need to take the head apart and see what damage is done

you'll see why I told you to just by another ZM engine real fast

 

I found a 1.6L for a automatic in illinois for $385 on car-part.com

 

look at that....Mac pwns jo0

 

DAMN!!!!!

385!?

thats fricken cheap.. would they possibly be able to do a layaway?

sad for me, i have no where close to 250 cash.. ive just got enough to cover wiring and hosing. about $75

take me a little bit to get that much
parents wont lend neither

 

well gotta stop for tonight... seal everything off with tape.. got a few friends hopefully coming out tomarrow.

hope ryan can get ahold of his brother too.. so i can get my stuff cleaned and painted.

ill get back to you guys after work tomarrow

i have to add in one more thing..

when i take the engine out, should i disconnect the motor from the trans, or take out both in one?




GOTTA GET MY SISTERS CAM

WILL POST THEM TOMARROW

sorry for not keeping my word

 

well, i cant help it.. im going back to work on my car...

its dark and 8:32

dont know how far i will get

 

Rubbermade makes great strong parts organizers. Go slow and keep everything, nuts & bolts, etc. in order so they go right back where they came from. A wire wheel on a bench grinder is great for cleaning out cruddy threads. Use good tools and buy brake parts cleaner by the case.

I'm sure an engine and parts rebuilding shop can hot-tank the block. Keep it plastic wrapped after that till you're ready to prep it, then blast out every nook, cranny and orifice with a pressure washer (they may do that for you too), you don't want any clogged oil lines. You can chase the water out with dry compressed air and light spray oil like WD40. I used to bake my iron blocks with heat lamps to dry them out. Re-wrap it if you're not immediately ready to go together.

Try some books from the library on general engine rebuilding and see what you like before you buy one. I recomend getting a couple, so what's unclear in one is covered better in the other.

This will be a good thread if you can post updates as you go. Good luck, wish I could help get my hands dirty.

P.S. when you've done it, people will be asking you how to do stuff.

 

And do the pre-lube as you assemble.

 

Absolutely.

Also, if you are building really slowly, use thick oil, even STP will do well. If you're going to slap it together in one or two days and crank it, use thin oil. I've used Marvel Mystery oil, but 5W up to 30W is okay.
Torque the rod bolts and mains slowly especially if you use thick oil so it all gets squeezed as thin as it can go. I know some people say to torque it all down, loosen it and torque it again, can't hurt.

I know we're ahead of where you are now, but just file the advice, I'm sure you'll have more of it than you need. And don't trust us advice givers too much, make your ultimate decisions based on what makes sense to YOU.

 

buy an engine stand