New ECU problems
#3
If you do a search, I remember it being discussed that the # on the MP3 ECU starts with a certain few numbers or letters.
And did you unplug the battery when you swapped the ECU? If you did or didnt, I'd try resetting it....I'm not positive on how to do this, so you may have to search but its something like tunring off the car, take (i think) the negative terminal thing off for X amount of seconds and hooking it back up...
Like I said, to make sure you may want to search for both topics or wait for somebody to respond....Hope I could be of some help!
And did you unplug the battery when you swapped the ECU? If you did or didnt, I'd try resetting it....I'm not positive on how to do this, so you may have to search but its something like tunring off the car, take (i think) the negative terminal thing off for X amount of seconds and hooking it back up...
Like I said, to make sure you may want to search for both topics or wait for somebody to respond....Hope I could be of some help!
#8
It is a genuine MP3 computer. I reset the computer and I am letting the car idle for a while. I got some errands to run today so I will see how it does. I also need to get a nail taken out of one of the tires so that will be done also.
Thanks so much for your help guys
Thanks so much for your help guys
#10
Yep it did.
I really dont see a difference in the bottom end but on the highway I see a really big difference.
I dont drive it on a day to day basis (its my wifes car, se took it from me) but I can tell a diff.
I really dont see a difference in the bottom end but on the highway I see a really big difference.
I dont drive it on a day to day basis (its my wifes car, se took it from me) but I can tell a diff.
#11
You won't see much of a difference. Most of it will come above 4500rpm.
Don't forget to use 89 or above octane now. 91 is recommended but we don't have it here. I've been using 89 with no problems.
I also recommend swapping out your plugs to these to get the optimum effect from your ECU: NGK ZRF5F-11
They are still copper plugs but with a bit of a longer reach into the detonation chamber. IMO it helps with the advanced ignition timing of the ECU.
Don't forget to use 89 or above octane now. 91 is recommended but we don't have it here. I've been using 89 with no problems.
I also recommend swapping out your plugs to these to get the optimum effect from your ECU: NGK ZRF5F-11
They are still copper plugs but with a bit of a longer reach into the detonation chamber. IMO it helps with the advanced ignition timing of the ECU.
#12
I don't mean to get off topic or anything ... but swapping ECUs never made much sense to me for some reason. How do you go about doing something like that? Do you just upload new settings or do you have to actually swap out parts and junk ... I just don't get it
#13
It's pretty much a little box with electronics inside which computes a lot of information put in at the same time, different ECU's will pretty much tell the car to do something else to possibly get more performance out of it, and it's basically a plug and play sorta thing, just take out the old one and plug in the new one!
#14
Originally Posted by scotty878
It's pretty much a little box with electronics inside which computes a lot of information put in at the same time, different ECU's will pretty much tell the car to do something else to possibly get more performance out of it, and it's basically a plug and play sorta thing, just take out the old one and plug in the new one!
w3rd. Just don't forget to bring extra band-aids for when you slice your hand up taking the cover off...
#15
Originally Posted by kargoboy
Don't forget to use 89 or above octane now. 91 is recommended but we don't have it here. I've been using 89 with no problems.
I know the mixture and timing are different with the new ECU, but I'm surprised you need higher octane.
If it's not knocking, lower octane should develop more horsepower.