Please help..those who removed shifter extension on P5
#2
Forget it I got it out...
This is the way I did it :
I put the flame at the bottom of the extension where the adhesive comes out and basically held the small flame for 15 min....Don't forget to put a cold and wet, clean rag around the main shifter tube to prevent the excess heat from reaching the plastic bushings....
I put the flame at the bottom of the extension where the adhesive comes out and basically held the small flame for 15 min....Don't forget to put a cold and wet, clean rag around the main shifter tube to prevent the excess heat from reaching the plastic bushings....
#7
what are you using? I used a propane torch and it took about 30 seconds. heat the bottom past of the extension and then put a screwdrive in the hole on the extension, twist and pull up and viola.....shorter shifter. You'll need a new **** but the boot is just fine. if you email me i can send you some instructions to print out that I have. I would recommend the mp3 **** if you can get it. The boot is the same as in the MP3, it will look nice with the ****.
#8
Got some pictures
Here's the shorter shifter (the new threaded extension technique). It's about 1.5" lower....Enough for me.
Oh yeah, and that's also me doing donuts in the company's parking lot...
[IMG]d:\car\P5_2.jpg[/IMG]
Oh yeah, and that's also me doing donuts in the company's parking lot...
[IMG]d:\car\P5_2.jpg[/IMG]
#10
Save your money and just remove the extension. The shifter is just a lever with a fulcrum, so changing the length of the lever on either side of the fulcrum has equal but opposite effects. A $100+ after market lever might make allow for an even shorter throw, but one would need to compare the lever lengths to be sure. The after market lever will likely reduce the angular displacement when changing gears, but may not reduce throw as much as just removing the extension.
I’m very happy with just having the extension removed, because my main problem was with the shifter hitting the passengers knee in 5th gear. Also, I can highly recommend the B&M leather and carbon fiber shift ****. It matches the car’s interior perfectly, and feels great. The set screw mounting of the **** allows for some height adjustment as well. I even made a custom leather shift boot to match, cuz the OEM boot was a piece of crap. It’s sweet set up now, and only cost $20 for the ****, and $10 for scrap leather from the furniture store.
I’m very happy with just having the extension removed, because my main problem was with the shifter hitting the passengers knee in 5th gear. Also, I can highly recommend the B&M leather and carbon fiber shift ****. It matches the car’s interior perfectly, and feels great. The set screw mounting of the **** allows for some height adjustment as well. I even made a custom leather shift boot to match, cuz the OEM boot was a piece of crap. It’s sweet set up now, and only cost $20 for the ****, and $10 for scrap leather from the furniture store.
#11
The B&M has a shorter top part to the shifter ie: "removing your extention" but the underside is lengthened as well resulting in 2" less throws. Plus I would see the benefit of a better quality part.
Dont get me wrong.... I see the value of what your doing, saving money to put somewhere else makes sense, I just think a true short shifter would work better.
Dont get me wrong.... I see the value of what your doing, saving money to put somewhere else makes sense, I just think a true short shifter would work better.
#12
I'm sure it is a better quality part, and if the lower section is longer it would shorten the stroke more than just removing the extension. I just think its not really necessary, and more people would opt for the cheap easy method. I also wanted to point out I'm happy with it, and you're right, I will wait and spend the money on something more worth while. I'm still waiting on someone to make a SS header, and If that doesn't happen soon I may end up spending the $700 on the Mazdaspeed pipes, and need that extra $100.
Either way you go though, a leather shift boot will make the biggest difference in driver satisfaction. The stock boot just doesn't fit well afterwards, and at first I tried resewing it. But the results were crap. The $10 for the leather and $2 for the machine needles, may be the best money I'll spend on the car. I tightly stiched the top 2" of the boot to the lever, so now I normally hold the lever below the **** when shifting. The large dia of the stock lever feels just right for this, and the stroke is plenty short for me. Anyway you gotta have leather in both hands when you drive.
Either way you go though, a leather shift boot will make the biggest difference in driver satisfaction. The stock boot just doesn't fit well afterwards, and at first I tried resewing it. But the results were crap. The $10 for the leather and $2 for the machine needles, may be the best money I'll spend on the car. I tightly stiched the top 2" of the boot to the lever, so now I normally hold the lever below the **** when shifting. The large dia of the stock lever feels just right for this, and the stroke is plenty short for me. Anyway you gotta have leather in both hands when you drive.
#13
Has anyone here seen the MP3 **** and shift boot? Its very nice and it uses the same boot that is on the Pro5. The Mp3 does not have the extension like the Pro5 but its shift **** is much taller. Once you remove the extension and reinstall everything else then you need to push the boot down in the cavity below the shifter tunnel. Looks exactly like it does in the Mp3; clean and purposeful.
#14
so let me get this strait, you held a flame underneath the extention (silver part) and sat their for around 15 mins? did you use something like 2 hex keys to torque it out or what?, the extention would get pretty hot if you held a zippo their for even 5 mins