I just started to use AMSOIL and man I found better HP. and about 5mpg on the gas. best of all I don't have to change if for 25k or one year. thats with one "filter" change in 6 months. here is a link you all need to try it!! http://www.jaspersynthetics.com

 

more HP?! You serious?

 

gotta raise it!!! .....25,000 miles on oil??? are you smoking crack??? more hp on oil ..possibly more mpg..thats about it!

 

How many HP did you find?

 

Notice a similarity between this person's screen name and the website???

 

I noticed the similiarity myself....but, I have read about Amsoil in the past with other cars and it, like a few others, is a pure synthetic. Yes, they say you can go 25K between oil changes. And yes, running synthetic fluids can net you a few HP. I would say that if you changed out all major fluids (Oil, Trans Oil, Transaxle Oil, etc.) with synthetic oils (Mobil1, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple) you might pick up about 5HP.
a. Everything will run smoother
b. Smoother means more power
c. Smoother means longevity

I know this sounds like an ad, but this post is about synthetic oils in general, not amsoil alone. I, for one, am going to be changing all my fluids in the very near future to sythetic. I would not go 25 between engine oil changes though, maybe 10K-15K max. I knew someone with a older toyota corolla that ran Mobil1 since first oil change and changed oil every 10K. Had over 250K on that car and never burned oil.

 

I would urge some caution with synthetic trans oil. I put Redline in my 97 Prelude 5-spd and it did quite well for about 15K miles, then began to develop a 2nd gear grind. Switching back to Honda MTF alieviated it mostly, but by 90K miles it was beginning to return. Personally I won't use synthetic in the trans of my daily driver.

Paul

 

Personally, I don't think synthetic oil makes a difference in the economy orientated and low compressions engines of ours.

 

okay, most here are uneducated about oil in general so im gonna expect quite a few arguments here but oh well....

The biggest advantage to a syn oil (a REAL syn oil like a group IV/V oil or a solid group V oil) is the extended drain intervals. However, just the oil being a syn alone is good enough to get it to do the long drain interval. The additive package is perhaps the most important part of a motor oil and in order to do a long drain one must watch for the additive level to drop. This can be done my doing an UOA and looking at the TBM of the used oil.

Now, for those of you running a syn oil like Mobil1 and change it after 3Kmiles-DONT!! Youre wasting good oil and using up a good supply!! Quit buying into the industry marketing and follow a drain interval according to a UOA (used oil analysis). unless your engine is an anomaly (i doubt it) or you let your car idle allot, then Mobil 1 can go at least 5K miles easy. use a good filter like a pure one.

Now for thoswe of you that refuse to run syn oils and like your regular dino oil then, fine. But please run oils that are at least a group II or group II+ oil. Some of these oils are: Pennzoil's Purebase oil brands ; Quaker State oils; Chevron's Isosyn oils; and even Texaco oil as its now really Chevron IsoSyn oil). All of these oils are group II or II+ and some contain group III (the oil in Castrol's Syntec brands except the new German made 0w-30. its Ester/PAO) oils and great additive packages. Mobil Drive Clean brand most of us still arent sure what theyr are using.

The only syn oil that is not a "true" synthetic oil that I would use, and have, is, Shell Rotella T syn. Its an oil that uses Shell's Slack Wax basestock. The Slack Wax basestock has equal properties to that of a PAO but a way cheaper cost. The end product is made in a way similar to the synthesis of PAO excpet instead of ethylene gas (where PAO comes from), SLack Wax is used and the oil from it, although not a PAO, is still just as good. This oil is not a group III oil or a group IV oil technically. Some may classify it as a group III or IV however, but not usually. This oil is sold at Wal-Marts but the idiot buyer at Wally World is discontinuing it.

Whew! Im tired now and gotta go to bed!

 

I have to agree with the use of Amsoil. I am now running the series 2000 0W-30, with synthetic power steering fluid (magnet inside reservoir as well), and Amsoil Synthetic GL4 for the tranny. I have to agree, the difference is there. I keep very good track of my mileage. I just took a recent trip to California (1200mi round trip), and checked my tires and changed all of the fluids to synthetic beforehand. I have taken this trip many times, and I average 32 to 33mpg. This time, I averaged a 4 mpg gain over the whole trip, up to 36.5 mpg. With gas prices the way they are, that justifies the premium cost of synthetics to me.

 

it's a trade off financially though, remember, you figure, $75 to $100 bucks for an oil change with filter every 25k, or $15 to $30 bucks every 3000 miles, you start to see the worth at that. i'm thinking of going synthetic on my car, despite what many might suggest, i'm just wondering what's needed to switch everything over to synthetic oil... do you need to flush out the engine, or what?
peace

 

No matter what you use in your engine, there will still be dirt entering via the air filter element... so you can keep your oil in longer, but it dosent mean it is staying cleaner longer.... 25 is waaaaaaaayyyyyyy too long for an oil change. Synthetic is just a better grade oil for breaking down.... dont think you can leave it in your car longer.

 

How about longlife oils which are used in VWs. Oil change interval is 50,000km. 25k isn't waaayyy too much if that oil is good.

 

Hmmm, I have an "older" Toyota, 200K miles and it doesn't burn oil, either. BUT, I've never used synthetic in it (I do in the Pro, though). In the Corolla, it's been nothing but 20-50 Castrol since first change. I attribute the lack of oil consumption to sensible start-up habits, not the oil, per se.

 

I guess that it would be reasonable if that were the case. The catch is that if you have a warantee problem with your engine. When they ask when you changed the oil last (and they can ask for proof of changes and maintenance) and you say "hmmm... 16,000 miles ago" I am sure that they are just going to tell you to get going and not do work under warantee on the motor.

Sorry, save some bucks after the car is out of warantee.... until then it gets changes every 5,000 at the least (and also likely after I am past the warantee period on my car).